Matthew Storrs
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Everything posted by Matthew Storrs
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What are you using the trailer for? A flatbed is far more versatile....I've had a new ifor LM10,6 since 2009, been a very good trailer, only gripe is many of the rivets on the dropsides worked loose and I ended up replacing them with stainless steel bolts.
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I find the 40/50kph tractors are in a way worse than a 30kph, at least a 30 is reletively easy to overtake on a short bit of road whereas the quicker are doing an annoying speed- not quite fast enough to get anywhere quickly but too quick to overtake unless you have a nice straight section. I agree that tractors should have an MOT and I drive a tractor a lot on the road so I'm not bias. Not being able to tow a 3500kg trailer behind a pickup but then be able to tow 10ton legally behind a tractor is also madness. One or the other IMO
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Thumbs are OK, but if you are doing mainly timber/scrub then I would definiatly get a fixed arm grapple instead. The only way I can describe it is try picking up a handful of twigs without bending your finger/thumbs then try picking up the same pile this time using your hand (like a grapple) as normal. You tend to get a better purchase on things as the tines wrap around the object. I use my grapple for ripping out gorse by the roots/pulling brambles all sorts of things. Off course a thumb is far more conveniant being tucked away all the time and a hydraulic one would be that much better but perhaps more of a jack of all trades compared to proper grapple:thumbup1:
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Nice one, like the look of that. Are the auxiliary hydraulics controlled by a pedal or buttons on the joystick?
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It depends if you can work with her/and vise versa. That might sound odd, but its one thing living with someone but I know if I tried working with my other half we would quickly get sick of each other and be at each others throats. Time apart is good!
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Oh well, who cares to be quite honest, if that's how he wants to do it, let them crack on with it. The way I see it I couldn't give a toss about other folks H&S procedures(if any), we all make our own choices in life and common sense should prevail- if it doesn't then survival of the fittest:thumbup1:
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Yes, 20th is good for me. Who else is coming? Must be loads of Arbtalkers around these 'ere parts?
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Advice for newly V.A.T registered company
Matthew Storrs replied to Treeman123's topic in Business Management
Hmm, im going to look for a good accountant, I feel sure that the amount of money I will get back in VAT on goods for the last 4 years will more then cover their charges! I reckon I'm 50/50 private and commercial. -
Advice for newly V.A.T registered company
Matthew Storrs replied to Treeman123's topic in Business Management
Yes, someone told me this, but surely it works both ways, ie you have to pay VAT on the money previously earnt? -
Advice for newly V.A.T registered company
Matthew Storrs replied to Treeman123's topic in Business Management
I'm thinking of registering for Vat even tough I'm not at the thresh hold. Having just purchased a digger, tractor and post knocker in the last 3 months it does make me cringe when iv paid over 6k on VAT just on those 3 items, probably a case of shutting the stable door after the horse has bolted now! One way iv thought is to put my prices up at least 10%. Basically going halves on the VAT I have had to pay on machinery to do there jobs without charging VAT! -
Likewise, at random 20th? 14th?
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I'm up for it as long as I don't get stood up:blushing:
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I purchased an AEG 18v combi with 2x3ah batteries from BandQ it was a deal at £150. Seems a very solid drill and doesn't struggle turning a 20mm auger bit through a gatepost. I find buying a mid priced drill the best bet, they rarely go wrong anyway and it doesn't matter so much when using it outside lying around in dirt/ using it in the rain- they still seem to soldier on regardless
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Or on a hot summers day, must be the best view from a beer garden in England:laugh1: Harry, am I right in thinking your farm must be one of the highest on Dartmoor? I know my parents farm is meant to be one of them but yours is the only one I can think of which is at least as high/higher?
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Also the correct tirfor wire rope should have a taper at the starting end. Tu16 is a cracking winch, good compromise between not being too heavy but still good pull
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I had a £50 tip the other day, was chuffed to bits with that!
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Warren do a lovely burger and chips! Its always our stopping point from our way back from work if wev been over that side of the moor. My parents have a farm on Hameldown and you can just see their top fields from the warren, that area of the moor is my favourite.
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Princetown. Do quite a bit of fencing around Merrivale and even the drop from Princetown to Merrivale can sometimes be the difference between a clearish day and thick fog. How long ago did your wife live in merrivale, there's only about 3 houses there!
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when I'm towing 3.5t I just have it in low all the time, saves so much clutch work. Putting all the digger buckets in the pickup bed helps but still the front wheels can spin out. I'm sure many people tow 3.5t safely all the time but in hilly country its really out of a defenders league. This is with a 110 I'd dread to think what it'd be like in a 90:laugh1:
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I can't say iv really had any trouble from customers. Some don't quite understand the logistics behind jobs and ask daft things without thinking what it involves, but in general they're always nice folk.
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I live right in the sodden center of it, love it even when its chucking it down. Not many places in England with such a desolate feeling when your right in the middle of the moors. Beautifull on a Sunny day too. But youv'e got to like rain to live on Dartmoor!
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You can find a 110 hi cap then it woukd be ripe for a tipper conversion, or even without the tipper makes a very useful sized pickup bed. I have a 300tdi hi cap which will pull my 2.8t digger but I rather question its safety, going downhill is all well and good if you have good trailer brakes but on some of the hills round here iv'e had it spinning out when trying to pull the digger up the hill and its not so funny when it starts to pull you backwards with your wheels braked on.
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Chris Willet- Tree Machine?
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I should add, if you have plenty of time to prepare the ground- all the better. You could plough a strip and plant into the edge of the furrow and then back fill as you go along- probably the cheapest easiest method.
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Removing turfs will remove the competition from the grass for the time being until it grows back . Iv just completed a hedge planting job in very poor/thin soils. My method- remove all turf along planting line with a digger, at the same time digging over the soil to about a foot depth, I then planted a double staggered row at 5plants per meter, spiral guarded them and then applied a 4 inch mulch mat of woodchippings. 100meters took 3man days to plant and guard, pit planting as opposed to notch as the plants were 60/90cm. I then had to stock proof fence it. Spiral guards are only really needed if you know there to be rodent/rabbit problems.
