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john k

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Everything posted by john k

  1. Thanks. I've put my application in, and will see how it goes.
  2. We get some instruction on basic maintenance and use anyway - that's included in the course. The £120 is just for the assessment and ticket.
  3. I've got a copy of the course handbook now, which gives more detail of what the course covers. Difficult to tell what the course is really like though. I was at the Plumpton open day a couple of weeks ago, but didn't know about the course then...
  4. It looks like I may be able to borrow some trousers for the training/assessment. If that's the case, is there any reason to buy type C or would I be better off with type A?
  5. I'm doing a diploma course at the moment, and have been offered the opportunity to do the NPTC Brushcutter assessment. It will cost me £120, and I'm not sure whether it's worth the investment. My interests are forestry and woodland management rather than arb, and I'm planning to do my CS30/31 later this year. Is there any real benefit in having brushcutter too? What do you reckon? Must have? Useful? Expensive piece of paper?
  6. I'm thinking of doing the Foundation Degree in Forestry & Woodland Management at Plumpton College: Foundation Degree in Forestry & Woodland Management Has anyone here got any first hand expereince of it? I'd be interested in any feedback.
  7. Nope. We're taking the kids to a theme park in the hope it will be a quiet day!
  8. john k

    festivals!

    I'll be there. We run the Snake Pit in Shangri La
  9. I noticed a coupe near me last week that was surrounded by Heras. It's certainly not pretty, but seems to work well.
  10. Any possibility of finding a farm where you can store kit? There are plenty of redundant farm buildings around.
  11. Thanks. Looks like a loggers tape will need to go on my list of shiny things to buy sooner or later!
  12. OK, here are a load more bone questions for anyone who doesn't mind answering them! What sort if tolerance do you work to? Does it vary much from job to job? Do you mark out all the cuts before cutting? Or work from cut to cut? How do you measure? Do you use a tape, or a gauging stick, or something else? Thanks
  13. Yes. There's the "Thread tools" dropdown menu above the first post which has the "Subscribe to thread" option. You can choose to be emailed when the thread is updated, or just watch it in your control panel here: http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/subscription.php
  14. Do you know which boots are likely to be available in a 14 (normally Euro 49, sometimes 50)? Also do any of the trousers come in extra long leg length? I'm 36/38" waist and 36" inside leg. Looks like the Oregons come in at about 33" so I'd need some extra tall boots! Should I definitely get type C?
  15. Thanks. Do I need to bring biscuits? Do you generally keep Lurch sizes in stock?
  16. I have no idea. I know roughly as much about choosing an arborist as I do about choosing a chainsaw trainer. I suspect that the majority of people would end up going by price. Precisely the reason for this thread of course. But if I don't know how providers differ, or even if there is much difference, it's difficult to evaluate who will be the best. Or even if the "best" is necessary provided I end up as a safe and competent chainsaw user. Recommendations are always useful (thanks!), but apart from that how do I identify a good trainer? Are they likely to be a lot better than an average trainer? Are there any bad trainers and how do I avoid them?
  17. Thanks. Looks like a shopping expedition to Jonesie's is on the cards!
  18. I'm planning to do my CS30 and 31 this year, and wondered whether there is much difference between training providers? Is it simply a matter of choosing the most convenient or least expensive? Or are there other things I should be looking for? Thanks!
  19. Thanks. Looks like 13" is favourite so far! Do you mean have a longer bar and chain as well as the 13"?
  20. Thanks for the pointers. Looks like it might not be quite as scarily expensive as I feared! Out of curiosity, what is it about those trousers and boots that makes them stand out? Is it just the availability in large sizes, or is there more to it?
  21. I'm planning to get a 346XP as my first saw and had been wondering about bar length. I'm not really sure what sort of work I'll end up doing, but if all goes to plan I'll be mostly doing woodland work - coppicing, thinning, scrub clearing, maybe some hedge laying. There may be some bigger felling too, but I think that's likely to be less frequent. Several people have mentioned how well the 346 works with a 13" bar, but presumably a 15" would be more versatile. To a clueless newbie a couple of inches doesn't seem much, but I'm guessing it's actually quite a substantial difference. Am I best off getting a 15" to start with? Thanks!
  22. I'd be interested to find out more about how you work, as this is an area that I'd like to get into. There's definitely no shortage of neglected woodland around, but I'm not sure how to make it work financially. Do you work on a day rate? Is it the shoot that pays? What about woodlands that aren't managed for shooting? Do you ever work for the timber? Thanks!
  23. I'm planning to do my CS30/31 sometime this year, and need to get some PPE sorted out. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to get a Husky 346XP, as these seem to be universally recommended in this sort of size range, but this seems to be the easy bit compared to choosing the rest of the gear. If all goes to plan I'll be mostly doing woodland work - coppicing, thinning, scrub clearing, maybe some hedge laying. Definitely won't be climbing. What would you recommend for a newbie? I don't mind spending what I need to, and would prefer not to buy twice, but I haven't got money to throw away needlessly. Just to complicate things I am unusually tall and have size 14 feet Thanks for any help!
  24. I'll second that. By coincidence I use him for my current business insurance (not tree related), and I've been very happy with what he has offered.
  25. Not exactly off. Looks like they're still planning to dispose of all the FC estate, but it will be leased instead of sold which will allow the government to impose more conditions than if they sold freehold. New direction for England’s public forest estate Defra News

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