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Forest2Furniture

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Everything posted by Forest2Furniture

  1. Even with those splits you'll gets some decent size width boards, most thickness planers wont take more than 12" and that split wont run the whole 22ft. See what length table she wants and cut accordingly.
  2.  

    <p>Hi, sorry or the delay replying,</p>

    <p>I take it you would want dry timber (London Plane) rather than what it is at the moment, green?</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Pat</p>

     

  3. Found my local dealer for Aspen 3 miles away, picking up some tomorrow to try out at weekend.
  4. This site might be of use reference safety of wood dust: Wood Allergies and Toxicity | The Wood Database
  5. I'm milling London Planes again in a couple of weeks so I'm going to try setting mine up at weekend, just got to find away of attaching the rope to the plank that's being milled. Rob, did you attach the winch to the mill with 1 bolt or 2?
  6. Thanks for your help, will try letting it idle for a while
  7. It's a ms 880 with a 47" bar on an Alaskan mill jig. Ask Rob D for more info on the Alaskan.
  8. 2 yr old me880, runs fine, starts ok. Just started this problem today and not all the time
  9. I've been milling today and a few times as I switched the saw off at the end of a cut, flames came out of the exhaust. Can anyone explain why this may happen? Thanks
  10. The stack will be left as is, the ends will be sealed with a mix 50/50 PVA & water, no need to cover the top because the planks are stacked as they came off the trunk the water will run off. Stickers should always be made of softwood so as not to leave a mark on the planks, I rip down 8" x 2".
  11. So, if I change to Aspen do I have to clean the tank before changing from standard petrol+2 stroke?
  12. It's a 3M rubber sealed gas/vapour mask. No Alec, I'm not using Aspen - what is it? Had blood test etc, it's petrol fumes causing the problem
  13. I've been milling with an alaskan for about 5 yrs and recently I've started to wear a face mask as I've been suffering with nose bleeds. Turns out I've got an allergy towards the petrol fumes, this would make sense as your head is near the chainsaw exhaust when milling. What I found most shocking was the amount of wood dust caught in the mask. With the new findings that the saw dust from so many trees is carcinogenic I was wondering how many of you wear face masks when milling.
  14. I'm going to mount mine on a piece of angle iron and bolt that to the jig. Like I said it will have to be on it's side so I can turn the handle but can't foresee any problems (famous last words) doing that way. Don't think I'll get it done over the weekend which is a shame as I've got another cedar to do on Monday as well as a Oak that has been done 2 years! So I'll be concentrating on getting the chains nice and sharpe.
  15. I admit it, I'm OCD when it comes to stickering. But I see it like this, if you make a nice job then it wont be an eyesore and it'll will be a talking point. I get a lot of jobs in domestic gardens where people want a piece of furniture making from their tree, so my price for milling includes the cost of the stickers as well as time for stacking.
  16. Ordered a 600lb hand winch of ebay for £10.5, it arrived yesterday. Can't mount it in the same way as in the photos shown on here as the handle is to long but that will be a nice challenge to sort out, will post pics when attached.
  17. I milled a couple of cedar trunks this week in a clients back garden, only slight problem was he had them dropped onto the footpath between the flower beds! One was a Cedar of Lebanon 3' in diameter by 10' long the other was Deodar 2'6" in diameter by 10' long. Stacked to air dry in an unused part of his garden.
  18. I had a similar problem with a new 36" stihl bar for my 880 and oregon chains even had the bar exchanged by the supplier. After pulling the chain around the bar by hand a dew times and putting oil in the groove it started to run smooth enough for me to fit it on the saw.
  19. The saw dust is highly carcinogenic, you must wear a face mask.
  20. Anything that reduces the stain of pushing the unit has got to be a good. For the sake of a few quid, think I'll try out the hand winch idea. Just found a website that sells water ski rope by the meter so you can buy the length you need.
  21. The more I read about this idea the more I like it, however my main concern with the electric winch is how flexible would the control be. With a hand wound winch, as with pushing the saw you could tell when you'd hit a tricky knot etc but with an electric winch it would just plough on potentially damaging the chain and saw.
  22. I have just bought a remote control winch off ebay - only £90-00 - so will start having a go with attaching to a 12v jumper pack and seeing if this will pull the mill down the log. That's sounds interesting, you'll have to let us know if it works.
  23. I agree the Big J & Burrell milling is hard work, it kills my back every time. And if you hit a nail that's the chain lost & on the big bars that's the best part of £50!
  24. Next time I go down will have to change the sticks in the top boards they are to long and keep blowing out in the wind. I also found i or 2 nails this one being a hand made victorian job, didn't damage the chain thankfully.
  25. If I can mill quarter sawn with the alaskan then I'll have a go. Most of the sections are around 20" in diameter but 4 of them (3 now) are over 3' one is 54", I'll need a bigger bar for that unless I can turn it. Access is very limited, can't get a trailer in so everything will have to be hand balled to the truck. But as I said it's staying put to air dried. I use the trees I cut, for making furniture I worked out that by the time I've finished cutting this lot I should have about 400 cube. Either that's a lot of furniture or some of it I will be selling off. The main problem I'll have apart from transporting it up to Nottingham is storage but I've got a couple of years to sort that.

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