doobin

I have the top models of most Makita ranges. Any questions fire away.

6x1 treated edging boards and 1" site pegs are peanuts to buy and save any messing around. Will also last longer than a year in the ground, unlike hazel or pallet wood.

The same thing is happening with diggers. Can't get a 2.8t machine with a 4 cylinder lump in anymore. Plenty of manufacturers use the same engine in models tons apart. When I bought my 2.7 tonner, there were a few manufacturers with 'premium' machines in the range with engines around 18/19kw. There were also lots with only 14/15kw for a similar weight, and I'm sure I remember one with only 13kw. 18-19kw seems to be used also for most 3.5t machines- my Bobcat E27 has the same power engine as an E35. I'd imagine there is a break in the emmissions-weight class around there, because power ballons on a 4.5t machine, to 30.2KW on an E45, With diggers, recent technological advances such as the widespread adoption of variable displacement piston pumps have made the same or more out of less power. You'll often hear people remark how a modern 1.8t digs like an old school 2.5t, and they're not wrong. I fail to see how a woodchipper with exactly the same working mechanism, chipping the exact same timber, can make the same, let alone more, from less power. Way less power.

Cheap circular saw TCT blades are fine for this (the Stihl blades are way overpriced) and usually come with a set of reduction rings, almost always there'll be a 25.4mm ring with a blade or you can buy them separately.

When my staff and I did the non notifiable asbestos course, we were told that transporting asbestos as a business was totally illegal. Homeowners might get away with it, but probably only as the council would rather they take the odd bit to the tip rather than bury it. No way would OP be allowed to drop off a transit of asbestos at the tip, and the best price I had for a small asbestos skip was £800 plus vat. If a smaller amount then you can get a collection via sealed tipper van, but still usually over £500

Just bung in some fuel stabiliser when you park it up. Aspen is way too expensive unless you want it for the health benefits I guess where in the country are you?

No it’s not. Especially after paying to tip the old ones, quadruple if it’s asbestos. You’re not allowed to take asbestos off site, you have to get a firm in to remove it.

Looks a lot more complicated than it needs to be ? At a guess, a pair do the hydraulic disengage when arm up, another pair do the 'don't start when arm down' bit, and the other seems to be an earth for some reason? I'd test the wires still attached to switch with a multimeter- you can see by the diagram that one pair should be open and one should be closed. If it's not doing this then switch is at fault- buy new swith and replace, using heat shrink crimps if yoInsert other media u don't want to be messing around with intermittent connections in the future.

I have both the Stihl 181 and Husky 135, and the Husky has more power for less money. McCulloch I've never known to be anything other than shit, so you dodged a bullet in my book if it makes you feel any better? ?

At 7cm diameter, I'd chuck it in a decent electric drill.

If you’re getting so old you can’t pull the starter cord, it’s probably time you hang the chainsaw up for good ?

Firstly, check the fuse. If OK, remove cover from the arm rest, find the switch, unplug it from the circuit and jump the two terminals. If this works, then it's switch (most likely). Failing that, you'll need to search for a break in the wire somewhere, most likely where the wire flexes when the armrest is lowered or raised. Should be a simple fix.

Kohler are just as shit when it comes to after sales service. I'll take a Loncin over either Kohler or Briggs. Wouldn't buy a GreenMech after reading some of the posts here either.

Nice. My Hyundai has nearly 1900 hours, that's three and half years old now. Doesn't time fly.

Because the fewer people who can do a job, the more in demand it is. Under capitalism, the price increases. What’s hard to understand?

How many hours on her now?

They won't sharpen for some reason. They're so soft the file won't work properly!

Archer. That's the badger. Just goddam awful.

Wait, I'm thinking of another brand. No, Carlton are OK, bought a load very cheap as they were one link too long but ran great with an 8 pin sprocket on the MS241 What's that super cheap brand on eBay?

Carlton are awful.

What he said. Can't fault the chains whatsoever, would never go back to paying double.

I'd say you'd need an ally body for that payload. The single cab LDV tippers were as light as they come really (metal costs money after all!?) and with the usual Brit Tipp steel tipper body they have around 1400kgs payload.

Depends what size digger you're putting it on. They're all easy to level up one way with the digger's crowd. Sideways is harder- you have to use the blade, you can get some with a tilt on them but they need larger carrier machines obviously. That Browns looks very well designed.

Pretty useless in my book. Can't grab brash with a 4 in 1, only big stuff like big logs and rocks. And whenever you were digging and had to pull out the odd stone it's bound to be the wrong width bucket for the trench.?

I wouldn't mind a go in your machine Steve, but I can't imagine doing arb work and not being able to spin round with a grab full of brash, or relying upon wheels to get me in and out again. Then again, it must be lovely to grab a proper full bundle with a grab on the front of the machine.