Ella

As of the First of June my apprenticeship in Arboriculture will be coming to an end. It is very likely that I shall be working on a Freelance basis, however I would consider full time employment. I hold CS30, 31, 32, 38 and 39; PA1 and 6; NPTC Rough Terrain Telescopic Forklit; and LANTRA Woodchippers and Brushcutters. I am a CSCS card holder. I hold a Full UK driving licence (post 97) and have just passed my theory test for cat C1 (7.5 ton) I aim to take the practical test as soon as possible, and, following that, to take the trailer test, enabling me to tow behind a wagon. My experience has predominantly been in forestry, participating in numerous clearfell jobs, where my role has been to fell and de limb, while often operating a tractor mounted winch, and driving the skidder. I have worked in arboriculture on weekends over the past 2 years, mainly working on the ground assisting the climber, being involved in multiple lowering operations. I have done a few basic climbs professionally, and feel that I have an aptitude for climbing, and that with practice I could become a proficient climber. I have dragged a lot of brash, fed chippers and cleared up, all of which I am always happy to do. I have some experience in the use of stump grinders with both manual and powered slew. I have full PPE, a few chainsaws, and a basic climbing kit If I could be of use to you do not hesitate to contact me on 07791 903693, reply to this post, or send an email to [email protected]

Use one everyday at work, brilliant tractor. Most of the work it does is powering the processor, but it does do some forestry work and is excellent. Was the only vehicle to start easily in this cold spell. Was also the only vehicle kept outside. Ours jumps out of 4 wheel drive which can be absolutely terrifying. Nearly rolled it a couple of months ago due to this going down a steep bank with a trailer on. Ended up with the trailer jack knifed and on its side so could be worse. Im not sure if this is a common problem with them or if it is just ours. Either way something to keep an eye on. What are you planning on using it for? Ella

The college are not easy to get answers off. I have bloke come out supposedly every 3 months to check how things are going on. Hes a pen pusher, knows nothing about the industry and deals with lots of students on different courses so dosent really have any answers, although i think his intentions are good. Im only at the college very occasionally especially since i finished the first half of the course. I am constantly pestering various people at the college just trying to work out what is actually going on. To be honest im unsure as to whether they know any more than me with regards to when the course ends. The last answer I got was "one day you could just find out you've finished" This is not surprising from the college - I first asked them to book me on a RTT loader course over a year ago. Do I have the ticket yet? No. I started my job 3 months late because my predeccesor dropped out a few months early, with very little notice, and it took some time for them to find me to replace him. They plan on taking on the new apprentice at the time of year which coincides with the course starting (I also started my course late) so that they are back in sync with the college. This will therefore be before my 2 years are up, but probably after I have completed the course. I know that the sole reason they take on apprentices is for cheap labour. While I have learned alot whilst working here there has definately been no focus on training me. It seems the attitude is if they can do it quicker themselves then they will do it themselves. For example I didnt learn to back up a trailer with any real accuracy until 6 months into my course. I got the hang of it when both of the other workers were ill and I was on my own for a week or so. Coincidence? I think not. As far as compensating for the wage with rent goes, thats a good idea, and I will suggest it if needs be, although ideally I would like to be looking for a job in the spring, when people are more likely to be looking to take someone on. Ella

Trouble is, because im working on an estate im under agricultural minimum wages. my contract states my wage, and if, by law im entitled to more then is would seem that it is void. I dont want to cause anyone a problem, and its well known that they only take on apprentices for cheap labour, and £8/hour isnt cheap so they wont keep me on. like i said i get a bit of notice on the flat, but im not really sure where i stand on the job front - cant seem to get any straight answers from anyone.

There was never an opportunity for me to work here beyond my apprenticeship. The estate takes on a newbie every 2 years or so and the old one moves on. I had just expected that i would have a date for when i would finish, but as i have completed the course more quickly than expected, they do not know. I am not old enough to get a class 1 licence, but i have just sent off for a provisional 7.5 ton, so the ball is rolling on that one

Thanks for all your responses I do pay a small amount of rent on the flat - £25/week, and the wage i am on, considering that is fine, I have no complaints about it. but upon finishing my apprenticeship i would have to be payed the minimum wage for craft grade - £8.15/hour, which they will not pay. My tenancy agreement is 6 months long and was signed around 18 months ago, they now only need to give me 2 weeks notice to move. On the whole I have been slightly dissapointed with the apprenticeship scheme, especially at the disorganisation of the college I attend, but the benefits outweigh any problems as i now have lots of tickets, most of which I got for free, and a fair amount of experience =] Ella

I am coming to the end of my apprenticeship in arboriculture; although I do not know exactly when - the college cannot even narrow it down to within a month; but I expect to have completed it by april-june . I work in forestry on an estate, and am therefore covered by agricultural minimum wages - 4.92/hour now, but as soon as my apprenticeship is finished I would be entitled to craft grade - 8 something/hour. the estate will not pay this and therefore I will lose my job. I will also lose my flat shortly after, as the estate own it and need it for the new apprentice. Ideally i want to have lined up a new job to start as soon as I finish this one, but without knowing when I will finish, this is not easy. Any advice on how to make the transition as smooth as possible would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Ella

Am keeping an eye out on arbjobs, but I am yet to find any adverts for weekends at all

I did my 38 with minimal experience and passed with very little difficulty. The course is designed for complete novices, and will take you through every step. In some respects I would say that a novice with a natural ability would do better than someone with a small amount of experience as they have not yet formed bad habits. This is not to say that someone with experience is not the better climber, but as far as the test goes you have to go by the book. It seemed to me that the main criteria for the test was to prove that you have learned the techniques and can put them into practice, rather than prove that you are a good climber. Learn the answers to the questions and learn your knots well and you will probably be fine. As far as climbing alone goes, I believe that you *should* have someone who has passed their CS38 present, wearing a harness with all their climbing kit at the ready at all times. To my knowledge, this is very rarely put into practice, and most people feel, as far as I am aware, that someone who can climb being present and their kit nearby is sufficient. Ella

Thanks for all the info everyone. One consideration I have is that at 7 stone I am light as far as climbers go. Presumably this will make ropes seem less springy to me. Is this a significant factor?

So Im looking to buy my first set of ropes, and really, I am clueless. I passed my 38 on a New England Tachyon, it seemed fine, did the job, but it is the only rope I have tried and there are so many to choose from that I dont really know where to start. Price is a contributing factor, but I definately dont want junk. Thanks, Ella

Wow, that was quick, thanks, I will do that

Anyone else? I now have a chainsaw aswell - a Stihl 066

Works mate. Makes the tar powdery so it dosent stick. Wont clean it out, but definately helps to prevent it in the first place. You will see the difference in the stove, it wont be clumpy lke it normally is, just a fine dust. Keeps the door windows cleaner aswell if you have them. God knows why, but it does work

Personally, my PPE consists of trousers, boots, hat. Job done. You will need gloves for assesments and training though; I used a pair of the stihl leather chainsaw gloves for my training, and found that the seams on the crease of your 2 middle fingers gave me blisters with prolonged chainsaw use would not reccomend. As far as a jacket goes, it is not a requirement, and I expect you would drown in your own sweat wearing one - I have never tried myself; but since you havnt even started off in arb yet i definately wouldnt buy one until you know you like the work, for fear of wasting money. Good luck!

Its not just a pile of logs, its the principle, regardless of the value of the goods. There is no excuse, we all do favours for each other and a bit of give and take is a good thing. Even if it will only ever amount to a few logs now and again, and nothing of any real value, do you really want to work with a bloke with this attitude? I wont even use the PPE my employer provides for me to do jobs on weekends etc which arnt for them. Thats just a bit of wear and tear, this is theft. He probably wont steal from you in any real sense, but in arb you have to trust the people you work with, whether it be with your life when theyre swinging a chainsaw about behind you or with your kit/goods. Personally, I would have nothing more to do with the bloke.

Good luck, make sure you know the answers to the questions thatl give you a good head start. The rain will give you a little lee-way. I did mine when it was raining very heavily on and off, so much so that we had to stop the climb before the aerial rescue and then go back up afterwards. your allowed to be a little less confident in your balance when its been raining, and less will be expected of you for the branch walk etc. Remember that your not trying to prove your a good climber, just that you know the techniques and can enact them efficiently. so dont fart around, but definately dont rush - just take it steady and youl be fine.

I am a female level 2 arb apprentice. I have CS30, CS31, CS38 and am on 7k. nab that 10k job straight up. As far as whether women can make good arborists - of course they can. Men probably have a higher tendancy towards it, but the women who do persist and make it are likely to be better than alot of the blokes out there. Good technique can reduce the amount of effort needed enourmously. At 5'0" and 7.5 stone I am definately not the butch type, but at college I am not the weakest physically, and by no means at the bottom of the class (all lads) I find that my weight holds me back far more than my strength. Gender must not be an issue. You may find (as many blokes do) that you are simply not up to it. If this is the case then so be it. People will mock you - it happens to all apprentices as far as i can see; and people will be dubious that you can manage. The trick is to prove them wrong. then they dont have a leg to stand on. I know that my aim is not to be good "for a woman", but a good arborist regardless of gender. And littletree - i would love to get into poleclimbing, count me in =]

The Lantra awards are recognised, and are better than nothing, but to progress your really gonna need to get your 31. I would book the training and the test again, take everything real slow, just make sure all your cuts are accurate, and try to get some extra practice in if you can. Make sure you know the questions perfectly - theres nothing wrong with just learning them word for word - the answers are there for you so use them. This puts you off to a good start and gives you a little more leeway with the practical. Good luck.

I have had a similar problem with my college, although i am still getting the funding for the basic tickets (30,31,38,39,PA1, PA6) At the start of the course they claimed that we could get additional tickets with funding being provided for the tuition and the exam fee, leaving us with only the materials fee to pay for (around £30 normally), provided we are on a long term course with the college and are 19 and under Trying to snap this up I have pestered the college for the past 12 months to put me on an RTT loader course, an ATV course, CS32 etc, they have never got round to it despite numerous phone calls, letters, and meetings in person; and I am now told that the funding has been withdrawn, and I will now have to pay the full amount. If you have the course details in writing then they cannot change their minds, and by law they must fulfil their promises. Good luck!

sounds like she would rather have rubbish for a cheap price than decent for a (presumably) fair price. Some people just like moaning it seems to me. give her some brash next time =]

Brilliant, thanks, il have a look at them =]

The first saw I used was a MS341. Wouldnt reccomend that you do the same. I got on very well with the MS230 when I first started - light enough to manouver with ease, powerful enough for any tasks a beginner should carry out, and not so powerful that you cant control the kick-back easily. Also it will still be a useful saw once youve got good, while imo you cant really say the same for a 181.

So I'm looking to buy my first set of spikes, but at 5'0" I have found that all (of the 2) sets of spikes I have tried have reached to my kneecap even on the lowest setting. This is obvioulsy not ideal, so I was wondering if there are any spikes which go significantly smaller than others? Thanks Ella

I live near the thonglands, and came across this in amsterdam. its probably exactly what it says on the tin, but it still amused me