Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

njc110381

Member
  • Posts

    465
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by njc110381

  1. Evening chaps. I think the time is coming for me to buy a new pickup. Mine's on the way out and I want to get the next purchase right. I'm looking at a Jap Land Cruiser crew cab with the 4l V6, but I'm not sure about the lack of parts etc. I want to consider standard brit forecourt stuff too... So, my old Ranger is ok, but immediately you select low range everything is locked. That's ok, but only off road. If you want to reverse a heavy trailer up a hill and around a bend then it's, well, shite really! Is there anything available here that you can have high/low with and without diff lock? Axle lockers like the Cruiser/G-Wagen would be great. Sadly it seems that all the decent trucks that you see around the world don't come here? GB seems to be the place of shiney leather seats and no lashing rails on the bed. Great for company car tax avoidance, but for work.... What's about? I thought a post here would get me some real world answers. Edit... Don't say Defender. Oil prices are rocketing lately and I can't afford to keep topping up the engine and gearbox!
  2. 15". I'm on my second tank of fuel now and I reckon I'd rate it higher than my old ms260. It really is very impressive for it's size Sent from my SM-G388F using Tapatalk
  3. Well I picked the saw up just after lunch today. Rushed home to attack a little pile of conifer logs that I'd collected ready to play with. I'm really happy with it so far - it's a lively little thing and very comfortable. It feels pretty well built and pulls into the cut perfectly even on it's first tank of fuel. If it loosens up and gets better then great, but it doesn't need too. Thanks for all your advice. I don't think I have ended up with anything better for my needs! Sent from my SM-G388F using Tapatalk
  4. Guys I have a real problem with a Viburnum on a jod I'm doing. I'm laying a large patio around it but it's showing signs of dying. Not from anything I've done because I've not got that far yet - it's the thing where the leaves seem to have little cobwebs in them and turn blotchy brown. Is there a cure for it? Everything I've seen with it has died fairly quickly once it's established. As a side note the neighbour asked us to look at sn oak that someone had done a reduction on and the new shoots are showing the same symptoms. I'm no expert - could anyone make an educated guess at what it is so I can look it up? Sent from my SM-G388F using Tapatalk
  5. I know what you mean. They always sound fairly relaxed in the cut. I think if I had to choose a saw for it's engine note it would have to be a Husky 254xp. Quite possibly because it's the saw that three out of the four blokes used at my first job with the Wildlife Trust, and it was also the first chainsaw I bought myself. Without a decompression button it was a beast to start but I still loved it! Back then my friend's dad worked for the Husky distributor in Stonehouse, which happened to be less than a mile down the road. I got the dead saw for the price of a pint and he helped me rebuild it - parts were cheap and easy to come by and I think we replaced pretty much everything but the casing!
  6. My 660 is like that. I never use the thing and it's a very expensive shed clutterer! But I do love it and it's not worth selling. I've had it eight years and if it's done a week of work I'm exaggerating! It's still on it's first chain and that's barely worn!
  7. 20" on the 8002 will be lively. I love running the 20" bar on my 660 - not much slows it down!
  8. As soon as there's a hint of an excuse to buy a saw, go for it! My CS-310 is quite a nippy little saw for what it is but it starts to struggle a bit when you get up over 9" or so. Maybe not struggle, but it certainly slows. That was enough for me! R Mac, have you managed to get out and give your new 501 a good beasting yet? I'm keen to hear what you think of it after you've used it a bit. I'm assuming you're waiting for a 3/8 sprocket to run your Sugi bar? Edit... I've just noticed we have exactly the same post count, but you joined five years after me. I really must try harder!
  9. I bet it wouldn't even spin the chain! Actually, I quite fancy one of these at some point... ECHO CS-2510TES Top Handle Chainsaw - gardenmachinerydirect.co.uk
  10. It's certainly easy to get very poor very quickly when you have a bunch of forum friends egging you on. I spent a grand on a new rifle last month after talking to some American lads... what's next I wonder?! Sent from my SM-G388F using Tapatalk
  11. Out on site with barely any signal. They open later than I get there and close before I leave. I reckon the main man has been on holiday or something. Before 7am this morning I got an email back saying they can't match the internet price but can do it for £399inc - that'll do, I've ordered one from them. Happy now R Mac?
  12. The nut is on the crank, so engaging the chain brake will only stop the clutch drum from rotating, not the centre. If that wasn't the case it would stall when the chain brake was engaged. As for the tensioner, just back it off a touch and lift the bar off of it. As long as you're careful not to over twist the chain it will work fine. Tomorrow... You're keen aren't you! I was going to give my local guy a bit more time to respond. I'm not sure what he's playing at because he's usually good - kind of makes me feel I should hang back just a little longer. Maybe I'll email him and let him know I need it soon, so I need a response or I'll order elsewhere. My next dilemma is how much time I should give before I give up - I've sent three emails now so I'm starting to get a little miffed. I could do without having to stop work to ring him during the day, and that's if I even have signal to do it. They start later than me and finish earlier... He should really be more on the ball than this!
  13. Yeah I watched that. Weird how you need that piston stop just to change the sprocket... bit frustrating but gives an excuse to change the plug now and again! It's not got a side tensioner but it is offset at an upward angle, so it's still easy to access without cutting your knuckles off (assuming the screwdriver doesn't slip...)!
  14. I think that's a side effect of having a fast turn over, low profit margin business. They get the kit out quickly and for a good price but don't want to waste time talking about individual sales. It's a shame, but it's the nature of the beast. I don't suppose it makes much difference to me. They come with a 15" bar as standard so there's not much to vary.
  15. I reckon I might just toss a coin! Really though, if I read back through this lot, the 390 is the more popular saw. I've got a couple of experienced blokes really rating the 390 highly having used both. On top of that it doesn't have the primer bulb which is a feature I don't like very much. The ability to use a longer bar isn't required as I'd just use the bigger machine rather than swap the bars over. It's cheaper, lighter, has plenty of torque and uses less fuel. Down sides seem to be a slightly less robust feel when compared to the 450. That was getting to me until I thought about the couple of pro lads running them hard, at which point I realised that if they haven't broken it, I'm not likely to either. I also prefer the look of the 450, but looks aren't everything. It's not like it'll be sitting on top of the fireplace in the living room. If I don't hear back from my local guy very soon I'll be ordering a 390 from ForestAndArb - might as well support a site sponsor if I can't spend locally. I'm a bit miffed by that if I'm honest - I asked for a price on the 27th of last month and got a reply saying they couldn't find it on their price list. I then sent them a link to it on the Echo site and one of it for sale on ForestAndArb, and I've heard nothing since. They may have been a bit shocked by the internet price in the link, but they know I usually buy from them even if it costs more. It's not like I'm a new customer!
  16. I wonder if you can cross topic quote people? Well here goes!... The 361WES reminds me a lot of the stihl 011AV that an old boss of mine had. Quite comfortable to use but I'm not sure it has enough power? It's not much of a step up from the 310. Edit... Ooh, that's handy! Another thought I just had is that the 390 doesn't have a primer bulb? Those things always look a bit amateur to me.
  17. It's ok, I can read your comments here too!
  18. I couldn't really see any benefit of one over the other, hence my question. Good to know. Thanks And now I just spat my drink over my keyboard!
  19. Call me old fashioned but if kit is given to me to use then I give it more respect than I do my own. Anyone who doesn't needs to have a talking to. I'd number them and issue each lad with a set saw, which is then theirs to use. If I worked for you I'd actually prefer that approach. Keep a record of what breaks and when on which saw, and you will find out who's killing them and who looks after them. Chances are it will happen less but if not, sack the careless one. As for the kit getting stolen, well they should be keeping a closer eye on it. A chainsaw is probably one of the most valuable vs easy to steal tools. You can't just put them down and walk away from them. I've never had a piece of kit that I've been using stolen because I take them with me wherever I go or lock them in the van. Chains and other consumables are just that. They can't tell if there's a nail in the tree and if they hit something then sharpening it out is going to cost them in wear time. If they lose a file then it's not really the end of the world. I think it's a bit unfair to hold that against them unless they're clearly negligent.
  20. It would be silly to ignore the majority vote though. The 390 has a lot of positive feedback here!
  21. It's so hard to judge! Lighter means less material which in turn may suggest weaker. Cheaper could give a similar impression. On the other hand it could be better designed and marketed to sell in higher numbers to boost brand sales and recognition. It's just impossible to know. The newer saws are identical to the Shindaiwa machines marketed more strongly in other countries. That reduction in tooling and design costs alone will reduce the production costs. I suspect that is the answer. I hadn't even considered the price. I can easily afford either one as a long term investment. Whichever I buy will earn me more than it costs so buying the right one is the most important factor. I do like the twin piston ring design of the 450 and it looks to be a more pleasing shape. It also looks to have a more heavy duty air filter? The fact that it weighs and costs a little more doesn't bother me. If I can throw a 660 around all day either of those is going to feel like nothing.
  22. Good to know. It seems my dealer is having some bother getting a price for the 390. Not sure why. I emailed him today to say that I want either one of those or a 450, so I'll leave it for him to figure out! He's not emailed me back since the 28th of last month so I'll give him until the middle of next week and if I still haven't had a reply I'll fire an order in to one of the site sponsors! I'm fairly patient but two weeks is more than long enough I think. As for the filler caps, that's also good to know. I do use a Husky can (or a copy of) so it's no bother either way. The filler on my 310 is pretty small. I seem to be leaning towards the look of the 450. The 390 looks taller and the chain brake looks more flimsy. Could just be the website image - I wish I'd payed more attention at the Westonbirt arb fair now. I'm not sure I can wait for the APF but I probably should!
  23. That could be a sensible move. Now you have more choice it makes sense to run both saws with an optimum bar length. Roughly speaking, 1/3 of the CC in inches is what an old chap I used to work for told me to aim for. He used a Husky 242xp with a 13" bar and loved it. I'm sure it's not an exact science but looking at all the saws I've had that seems to be a reasonable rule for good performance.
  24. You bugger! I was just about to settle on the 390!
  25. That's my thinking. A bit of weight often means more solid build. Same power from a smaller engine makes me think it will wear itself out more quickly?! The comment from Ukulian, although reassuringly positive for the 390, does suggest that the 450 is a tough little saw. If it can do a year in the hands of a rough ground crew without giving any trouble then it's going to last me ten! It does raise a question though - would you give your groundies 390's or more 450's when the saws they are running now finally give up? You're supposed to be helping me chaps, not confusing me! Lots of positive feedback on both - I was hoping there would be a clear winner but it seems that whichever I go with I won't be disappointed. If the 390 uses less fuel vs the 450 then it will probably save enough money to replace itself over the life of the machine...

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.