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We all love them, here are some more hopefuls currently running. TREE TRUNKS (EUCALYPTUS) FIREWOOD LOGS / HARDWOOD TIMBER / FURNITURE WOOD | eBay TREE LOGS CHERRY TREE FIREWOOD BULK BAG HARDWOOD LOG | eBay TREE STUMP FOR CARVING OR FIRE WOOD FREE TO COLLECTOR | eBay

Just posing a question. How much does it cost to insure a petrol driven process against theft that I'd assume would cost in the region of £8k? My PTO driven processor cost nothing as its covered under the tractor insurance inclusive as a link impliment. The tractor comes in useful for other things too.

The rate of split on the wood depends on many factors from how fit you are, how many people are with you, how straight the cord is and how much is oversized for the processor to handle. If you haven't done it before and don't intend to do it again then I'd look to hire a crew in along with a processor which I wouldn't consider doing for under £300 a day if I was in that game. I'd aim at 2 to 4m3 an hour dependant on how processor friendly the wood is so to process 50t would take roughly 3 days and yield around 80m3 with a retail value of typically £6k to £8k when seasoned.

The rate of split on the wood depends on many factors from how fit you are, how many people are with you, how straight the cord is and how much is oversized for the processor to handle. If you haven't done it before and don't intend to do it again then I'd look to hire a crew in along with a processor which I wouldn't consider doing for under £300 a day if I was in that game. I'd aim at 2 to 4m3 an hour dependant on how processor friendly the wood is so to process 50t would take roughly 3 days and yield around 80m3 with a retail value of typically £6k to £8k when seasoned.

Looks like leylandii and no more than 2T. He won't be able to give it away.

A rule of thumb I've worked to is 1.5m3 for hardwood and 2m3 for softwood per tonne.

The O licence requirements depends on whether the vehicle or vehicle and trailer are plated or not. I would suspect it is something that is very often overlooked and infringed upon. The best source for information on weights and regs is always the gov websites and VOSA. Here are a couple of links on the regs and excluded vehicles. Do you need a goods vehicle operator's licence? | Business Link http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/repository/Vehicles%20Exempt%20From%20Operator%20Licensing%20Requirements.pdf If you do local deliveries like I do using farm equipment and longer distance by courier you don't need to concern yourself with these formalities.

I had some 4 year old rings that just shattered when touched by the screw that the hydraulic splitter wouldn't touch other than put a mark in the wood. So as others have said seasoned rings are the best for a screw so I leave mine for one or preferably 2 years before splitting. On the safety aspect I have never had any issues which is good as I never set up the PTO cut off pull. Just pushing the ring onto the srew is fine and if it goes to flip stand back and let it go. I always load the rings from a pallet raised to the deck height to avoid back strain which on up to 40kg chunks of wood could be easily caused.

I deliver free within 3 miles bagged logs on my telehandler forks. I use a courier for anything further. They are £20 for county deliveries and £40 for UK deliveries. Price is for the drop and not by the bag. I don't know when they start adding a bag premium but its somewhere above 2. I defy anyone to deliver within county themselves for under £20 including their own time. It comes down to do you want the cost of equipment to do deliveries (truck and trailer) with running costs, insurance costs, maintenance cost and depreciation and then lose a lot of your time running the logs around? For me £20 is a bargain so I charge customers £40 for arranging it for them.

If you are tackling a lot of various size and shape timber I'd recommend a screw splitter. That can take up to 2 foot rings easily (you'd need good muscles to lift anything larger). Screws work better the more seasoned the wood is. Good new screw splitters are around £1500 or slightly less second hand. To operate a srew spliiter does require a PTO drive.

Ended up having to grind the nut off it was never going to budge. At least the saga is over!

If only life were that simple.

As well as price the main constraint on selecting a bag supplier is the order quantities specified and how that fits in with you useage plans.

Have you got insurance cover for hire and reward on plant?

I've managed to find a company that'll do left hand thread M27 nuts at a good price so I'm going to try one last thing to get the nut off. Buying in half nuts and full nuts so that I can use two half nuts on the end of the shaft with the inner one acting as a lock nut and then look to lever an adjustable on the retaining nut against a bar and socket on the lock nut. If that fails I'll just get to grinding away and use one of the full nuts I'm buying in. The residual (minimum order 10 nuts) will be going up for sale on Ebay. Fuelwood charge £11 + VAT + carriage per nut so may even get to cover my costs.

This is the first attempt to sharpen the blade. Its a hardly used 2 year old processor only done 200m3. Sat indoors all its life. Anyway, tried again this morning. The retaining nut is moving but seems to be tightening. After about 1 rotation its still as tight as a nut. So we reckon its been tightened so tight at the manufacturing stage its self tapped. Fuelwood, the suppliers are crap so I won't be troubling them again except for parts if I can't get them elsewhere. All they could offer up is hacksaw it off. With the nut next to the blade that has to be impossible. They have generously offered to sell me replacement nuts and a shaft though. All the Fuelwood plank could offer up is that he's never ever heard of this problem. I did tell him to never say that again which he didn't appear to fully appreciate. Looking like its going to be a weekend angle grinding the nut off and seeing what the shaft damage is.

My mate who helped me finally get one of the 2 nuts off said its likely going to take a air socket and his gas torch to get it off. Trouble is the processor and his kit are 5 miles apart.

This is not easy at all. Two of us, one with a 3 foot lever and the other standing on the linkage points to hold it down finally got the locking nut off after a lot of grunting and swearing from my mate on the lever. The retaining nut is tighter if anything. Maybe getting the locking nut off finally wore us out but this one isn't cooperating. It looks like the retaining nut is attached to the retaining plate. Is it or is that just the paint making it look like that? I'm not sure if I'm expecting (more hoping) just the nut to move or the whole nut and backing plate. We gave up after an hour so left it with another good soak of penetrating oil. This is a bitch though. Anyone thinking of buying a new processor with a circular blade should ask for the blade to be removed and refitted on delivery. What I'm going through is crazy and its something I'll spec in on my next machine.

I posted a thread earlier about getting my saw blade sharpened for my Japa 700. I'm still very much at stage one, nut won't budge and I am trying to turn it clockwise. I've had a bar extention on the ratchet and lifted the machine (I wasn't aware I was that strong) but its not budging. Got myself a 75 inch lever bar on order now figuring I'll either lift the machine on its side or get the better of the nut. Only support from the retailer Fuelwood was to say grind the old nut off and we will sell me a new one for £11 (great help and they are £7.50 a pair on Ebay). Anyway, assuming I do get the locking nut off is the retaining nut going to be any easier to budge or am in in for fun and games twice over? I can't figure why they are put on so tight at the factory as this will be the first attempt to get it off. My worst nightmare will be to have to grind off the locking nut and then not being able to budge the retaining nut as there is no room to grind that as well. Nightmare. Any suggestions gratefully received. Otherwise a hardly used Zapa 700 for sale just needs a blade sharpen.

I have a Japa 700 with a 12 inch circular rip saw fitted as OE fitment. Time for a sharpen so want to look into options. Firstly I've had to order a 41mm socket in order to get the retaining bolts off. Once I have it off there is a company 20 miles away that say if I deliver them the blade it'll cost £25 to sharpen. So that'll take 80 miles of driving and 3 hours of my time. I've been looking online for a replacement (come spare blade) cost and there seems to be suitable new blades from £80. Can anyone recommend a saw blade supplier in the UK? If I can get one for under the £80 I probably wouldn't bother getting the old one sharpened.

Thats impressive, double manning with one feeding a prepping and the other sawing and splitting the best it gets is 2 cubes an hour. I can only assume you are splitting uniformly sized uniformly straight softwood to get even 4 cubes an hour.

It can. Read up on what you should be aware of and precautions to take on the HSE site. Woodworking health topics ? Inhaling wood dust

I process a lot of sycamore and find only a shade over 1.5m3 for each ton is a typical yield. You can squeeze out 2m3 if you short fill the bags and don't lift them ever otherwise the top 6 to 9 inches will be air. I realise this is going to break the economics, at more like £10/m3. Hopefully the OP won't price according to the purchase prices as its unlikely to be mathced again. If he doesn't then he should be able to turn £100 into comfortably over £1,000. Thats a level of return most of us can only dream of except for the tree droppers amongst us.

If you can 8T delivered for £100 I'd be surprised. I'd pay my wholesaler £480 for that quantity delivered in artic loads.

My normal cord supplier is offering the same price as last for delivered hardwood cord of £60/T. I was expecting the pricing to soften this year due to the mild winter - what are others finding/expecting?