Shane

Not that unreasonable - happens lots round our way. Often it seems they get a few quotes then get a friend/relative to do it for a bit/lot less than the lowest quote. I've priced a few which were never ever done - lt's be honest.. who hasn't thopught about getting someone in to do a job that you 'might' want. So you get a few prices and maybe decide it just isn't that important. I know we all subscribe to the professional/quality approach but there are loads of punters out there who shop at Lidl and wait at car boot sales at 6:00 am for bargains. Just remember - why work for Lidl customers and earn nothing when you can be making a decent living working for wasitrose customers.

I never knew Lance Arborist had been wrongly imprisoned.

Your'e not old until you hang around outside the bingo hall at closing time or the Saga Holidays coaches when they unload! Move to worthing.... the average age is over 70 - if you can breathe then you are young. Enjoy what you've got while youve got it!

Gave all my guys a 3 figure cash sum, took them go-karting (the nimble little @@@@ left me for dead), then out for a chinese meal. They all work hard - wish I could afford a bigger bonus but they were all happy - and nobody lost a saw!

Just need some help here to identify these fruiting bodies. I've looked in the fungi directory but still unsure. Saw them on the roots of an old, seemingly healthy oak this afternoon. The tree is about 5ft diameter, 30ft drip line radius and 50 ft high. They look rather like Hypholoma fasciculare or possibly the dreaded honey fungus in its early stages - but I thought oaks were reasonably resistant to HF and Hyp fasc was more common on dead wood. I'll happily admit to commenting more from theory than experience - so any help gratefully received.

I hope this is right... The total distance of your perimiter is 200 mtrs (80+80+40). If you plant one tree every 2 mtrs you divide the 200 by 2 to get 100 trees. I guess you multiplied the 200 mtrs by 2 to arrive at 400. Don't beat yourself up about poor maths were all dodgy at some things, at least you asked! Good luck Shane

Cheapest/effectivest solution I use is to get afore-mentioned 2 inch waste pipe, cut 2 x 18 inch lengths, then cut a 6 inch slit in each pipe. Before reversing slide pipes over outer end of rear bumper thing (where lights/ no plate are on the chipper). When you can see the end of each pipe you know it's dead straight and you can always see at least one pipe-end! (hopefully). If you do hit something the pipe twists off and no damage. Just an alternative to cable ties and nothing left on the chipper until you need it.

I think Firewood has a great point. It all depends om how far back you choose to go in history. Isn't the same true in politics - how many counties/states go to war because an area 'used to' be theirs - Anyway - if sycamore works for you - go for it.

That's absolutely brilliant - it ate mine for tea!

Time to put my head above the parapet (if thats the correct spelling). My understanding on tachos was that forestry is exempt as long as you operate within 50 km of your base. I am a wimp when it comes to travelling and just about all of my work is within 30k of home - running a 3.5 GVW transit and a 749 kg chipper I have assumed I am safe from tacho-land. Fire away

Whatever the pros and cons of dealers-only selling Stihl, if your local dealer has a poor supply of spares why not try a slightly less local one. There is quite a network of them. I must say my local dealer just about always has whatever I want so I (along with many other West Sussex bods just keep going back to him. I guess site rules prevent me from mentioning which one it is in Walburton.

Is it possible to write a routine which puts any mention of 'which chipper' into a separate area where Timberwolf, Greenmech, Jensen etc.. supporters can beat the #### out of each other. Sorry about this but this question seems to come up every week - like Stihl vs Husqvarna. We need a manufacturers death match page.

Could it be they were members of the travelling fraternity in fancy dress? This sounds really wrong to me.

I was wondering about that - its OK for running a geared down winch but something like 35hp worth to run a reasonable chipper - dunno - hence the question and possible addition of chipper with engine rather than via PTO.

I was assuming that by keeping the vehicle below 3.5 tons theres no need for tacho (if you work within 50 kms of base) and no need fro more frequent maintenance schedule - hence trying to keep within the weight category.

For the second time in my life I was thinking today... How to legally shift big loads of chippings without the hassles of operators license etc. I'm ready to be slated for this (or be told its already been done - here goes). Strt with landrover 110/130 Strip off the rear tub and fix a chipper on chassis (maybe even a turntable). Why not pick up the chipper drive from the 'spare' output on the transfer box (used on some to drive the front winch) - if not enough power you'd need and encined chipper. Build in a tool box if theres room. I recon that would still be well below the GVW of 3050 kg (My greenmech in under 750kg with all undercarriage). Then all you need is a decent trailer with a GVW of 3 tons (and a payload of around 2 tons - assuming it weighs 1 ton). away you go - more chips (legally) than a transit and better grip off road. Only down side is the 'agricultural' nature of the drive. I love my 110 too much to do this to her but depending on comments I might start searching for another one for a new project. Shane

I have a genuine brand new crankshaft still in box. Bought it 'just in case' a couple of years back then last year the piston/barrel let go - so no more need. Can't remember what I paid for it but if you find the cost of a genuine one I'd be happy to part with mine for say 40% of 'their' price. Shane

I did 1.0 and that was a dodgy one (not a jammy dodgy one though) My stomach stopped my chest getting to the floor. Must've been supervising from the ground for too long. I'll give myself 100 lines 'must get fit again'

What was the date on the tax disc?

One of my charts says oak at 50cm diam weighs 165kg per mtr. Oak at 30cm diam is about 59kg. If its 20 inch at the base and tapers 'typically' the average diameter would be say 12'' Approx. 10 mtrs at an AVERAGE of 12 inch (30 cms) would therefore be 590 kgs But the extra weight at the bottom would be more than the reduced weight at the top so it would probably be a bit more - best part of a ton. But thats my chart. Variations in season with moisture content, rate of taper etc.

Thanks for the advice - I guess an underpowered saw is no use to anyone. Shane

After some advice here. Last year we were doing a site clearance and we found an old saw in the unergrowth. Its a small bench type made by S Tyzack. The blade is about 12 inches diameter so it would be OK for a 4'' cut. Amazingly is spins fine - with a V belt pulley attached, the bearings seem to be pretty good. Below the bed is a mounting plate which is adjustable. I think it would be fine to use to cut up my own logs but what hp/wattage of motor should I fit? I have no 3 phase supply so am limited to 230v Any advice from you industrial wizzards would be greatly appreciated. Shane

Apologies but this reminds me of the dyslexic, insomniac, agnostic who used to lay awake at night wondering.... is there really a DOG? Sorry - couldn't resist, but at least there are some good suggestions here.

It's so easy - all you need to do is click on the 'download to excel option and you're away. Then you canthrow away your inconvenient little stick (which is usually only accurate to within half a metre) and just carry round a grand's worth of laptop (which will not get damaged in the cab) and after just an hours measuring, climbing over fences and walls, youve got a precise measurement. I'm going for it.