mixedangased

6205 x 2

6208 x1

if i remember corectly will check

telehandler and tractor with roof mount and yes goes out on site if suitable as saves my back

i got the jet winch,cant fault it ,earned what it cost ten time over,and i`ve pulled some big leaners back over ,as for loler only needs testing if used for lifting was what i was told.

1.35 cm3 100 quid here or half loads 60

ah sorry yes wrong way round but worth a check if he has one fitted

at 52

i have suffered with a bad back for years now,had xrays a few wks ago and doc sayes wear and tear ostyoparosiss put me on co_codedamal no use. had 2 stright off nothing,tried physio,acupunture,ciro,etc useless.had some sports therepy massage which improved my flexabilty.just bought a tens machine seems to work for me backs been great for a week now:thumbup:,just need to fix my tennis and golfers elbow now and i dont play either hows that work ?(please excuse spellings)

is there a cold running switch over plug in the air filter cover like the254 xp? as if shut will make it run hot in this part of the world.

Wow, has this really been 4 weeks ago.......... So I've managed to get the engine back together and went out to use it today, managed to snap the pull cord (nothing major) but now the engine is seeming to be hydro locked again, oil is clean this time, Im hoping something simple............

the gx340 engines have a problem of snapping the valve rockers where they pivot

My Rayco 13hp stump grinder gave in today.

When I took the inpsection cover off the cylinder head the upper valve spring seat on the inlet valve was only half there and the collet was gone.

The valve was not moving.

 

I know its worth rebuilding the head with new valves/springs etc but first I need to find the broken bits.

 

The other half of the valve spring seat was still in the valve gear chamber so no worries but no sign of the collets.

 

I have removed the engine, drained the oil and even flushed it through with petrol but NOTHING!

 

On the assumption that it is mechanical suicide to run the machine with unknown bits rattling around inside I'm going to strip the engine while its out and maybe check it all over.

 

Has anyone on here ever separated the crank case on a vertical-split honda engine? If so are there any knacks when it comes to removing the crankshaft from the end bearings?

 

Any advice appreciated.

 

Maybe if anyone has an idea how much the bits will cost:confused1:

 

For reference its a single cylinder 390cc 2004 vintage, never let me down before!

 

Cheers

Shane

ive got a load of bits for them engines gx340 if you need anything let me know

Don't own either, but have used both 3120 and 880, actually prefer the 880 despite having spent more time on the 3120.

 

On the whole felling big stuff, it gets prepped with the 66 then the back cut put in with the 3120. The prep gets done with the smaller saw partly because it's easier to be more accurate with and partly so the big saw is kept sharp for a fast back cut.

 

Can't remember anything we couldn't have got don with the 66 but with the 3120 it's done in a 1'er rather than beavering away from both sides with the 66.

 

Where I feel the 3120 really comes into it's own is ringing up a big stem.

 

More often than not, it takes longer to start the 3120 than it's used for - that bloody primer button is a pain in the arse! Why can't they just have a choke like a normal saw?

primer button ??? mine has`nt got one

level load hilux tipper around here approx 1.35 cm3 is 100 quid but going up in the new year

I would love to know how he fills in his risk assessment.

bet he would love to know what that is

I did think that, thought there may be a 245 that I had missed:biggrin:

 

H-A

never miss a 254 till you sold it

245 but failing being able to find 1 settle for a 560xpg mad fast On a 13" bar or a powerhouse with a 20" bar.

don`t you mean 254 ?

Where do you get ducks bigger than a man?!!

duckland

You need an Alaskan Mark III mill - with an 880 I would go for the 48" model as you can run them with a shorter bar, which is easier than extending the mill late.

 

What bars do you have? To try it out, the standard Stihl 47" Duromatic will work OK but if you buy bars for milling go for a roller or sprocket nose as it takes less power from the saw and the hard nose heats up more easily which also messes up chain tension.

 

Bolting the mill to the bar you lose the length of the dogs, the sprocket and an inch for the clamp at each end, so typically your maximum cut is 7-8" less than your bar length.

 

You need a ripping chain. Opinions vary but the Granberg chain is reckoned by many to cut slightly faster and leave a slightly better finish. It is however more expensive.

 

For milling you need all teeth to be identical and dead sharp, which you can't do by hand. The Granberg precision grinder is good for this and can be used without taking the chain off.

 

You can find all the above at Chainsawbars ? chainsaw chains, chainsaw bars and chainsaw accessories - run by Rob D who is the same seller as you've found on eBay and is also on this forum.

 

Alec

2nd that and do the hand winch conversion,( better finish on boards )

thinking about it i had similer probs with my hilux last year and found the strainer in the tan blocked,would run great for a while then die back,have you a primer on the fuel filter ? is the button sucked down on full revs ?also the primer diaphrams perish and let in air had in on my citroen bx td

is that the same as the renult traffic ?,if so thats normal its the rev limiter in the ecu.

usually a couple of weeks,when you have replaced your kit with nice shiny new kit

grease 4 me too,my 3120 hasn`t got the hole in the centre of the clutch yet

get mine done by sawtec, collected and returned the following week

The only issue now is which Husky do I buy to replace my old 044?

254xp if you can find a nice one

have you had the chain catcher off as theres a screw behind that

got mine with a trailer picked up from a 240 mile round trip 450 quid

got mine off ebay aswell