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Posts posted by mixedangased
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im in the cotswolds,what do they look like ?
never seen one.
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have a search for a operators manual online
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That's what I'm thinking too..
me too,hit them where it hurts the most
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well i played with the saw, what a differance,slight porting the in/ex ports but didnt alter the hole in the barrell to piston,cleaned up transfer ports and holes in piston,altered exhaust intake size and gasket to match barrel,enlarged air filter intake and inlet manifold and matched gaskets.cut ex open and removed outlet pipe with baffle.added new outlet pipes 2 of,tweaked carb and cheched plug after a tank full.what a little ripper :thumbup:will wake the dead tho
ripped through some beech more grunt better responce and now singing
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If you haven't already got one, put a winch on the mill. Makes milling a doddle.
2nd that
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Just remember that until ya get a handle on porting, that less is more. Knocking off the coating on the top of the exhaust and the bottom of the intake will get ya some improved timing. Depending on the model, some folks do not even add exhaust timing at all. All saws can use upper transfer fiddling, but make sure you know what yer doing. Some saws make great gains with tiny mods. You'll usually see a 25% improvement on cutting times with a simple muffler mod and touching up the insides a bit and adding more fuel.
This is may last project, a 77cc BB top end on a 2165/AKA 365. Intake is at 159(this model BB has a wide intake tract and is fine at lower intake timing even modded), exhaust is at 163(it is running a pop up piston at 200psi ish), transfers at 21* and heavily modded, zama carb, with an 18 B&C running chain with very low rakers in maple wood - excuse the lack of shorts:
i likie
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Have seen this but don't like it, looks less refined compared to the GRCS also it's not proven and I'm no test pilot.
Normally to beat the current no 1 you offer an equal product cheaper to get it out there but I believe it is more expensive.
I'd like one built in the last 3 months hence seeing what the current model is
fair enough
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smart winch found it,do a search on here
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think theres another winch out now where you dont have to swap from bollard to winch as its in the centre of the bollard so esay change from one to another on the fly,can`t remember what its called,superwinch or somthing,will see if i can find it
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1990 m3 hilux tipper 136k
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not a munter a nice saw,fix it and use.
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It really has to be the whole powerhead as you need to tune the carb and make sure the fuel sytem etc is set up to deliver the fuel needed!
ok, thats no problem.
whats the rough costing ?pm if you want.
also have a 3120 that could be done aswell.,
stripped 1 saw today that has an ex rattle and on inspection against my other 1.
1 has after market barrel and piston i think and the other a mahle, the after market has bigger in/ex ports but the finish isnt so good,so gonna have a go at cleaning that one up.wont mess with the port sizing piston side tho.
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Same handy work me thinks !
looks just like the one i did today
will take a pic tomorrow
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Widened the inlet and exhaust ports and opened up the piston windows then opened up the air filter union:thumbup:
nice
might just have to send you mine,
would you want the whole saw or just piston and cyl ?.
i have 3 x 254 xp`s so would`nt miss 1
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http://www.arboristsite.com - over the water:001_rolleyes:
ta spud,be interested to see what you did to the254 you tuned
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I'd go to the AS site and look up masterminds threads and the porting 101 threads before you tear in to a jug like a 254xp. He does start to finish porting walk-throughs.
as site ?
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thanks for the reply guys,
have been watching a few vids on utube and im not unacustomed to porting as used to do a lot with mini engines 35 yrs ago,but never done a 2 stroke,
will see what i can find and probally just clean out a feather/polish the ports to start with and mod the exhaust and see how that works.
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anyone recomend any good books on 2 stroke porting ?
fancy having a play an a 254xp
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HI guys, I have just seen some photos of a small hand winch attached to an Alaskan and was wondering if it's worth bothering with - is there an issue keeping the rails flat on the log? Also looks a bit fiddly on and off the log - has anybody used one? What are your thoughts ? cheers Mark
defo put one on,
can mill allday and not feel knackered at the end.
plus the finish is so much better,nearley as good as planed
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Sell him a hosepipe and tell him to wet it as much as he wants
was tempted to tell to keep a bucket of water next to the fire and give them a dip before putting them on the fire
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just bought some more
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Ive not met one yet myself.
i have ,had one before christmas,he asked for wetter wood ,so i sold him a load and told him on his head be it and not to ring back if he cant get it lit.
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That's roughly the plan. I do have to move the fuel tank filler. As it runs into the old body. This will need a new mounting area. So in I'll have to build that aswell. The body that's on it is on a 4inch lift. It also has some big tyres. So will have to make some wheel arches into the box, maybe. It's a maybe as with the sub frame of the box it will lift the bottom of the box up. But with suspension travel it may become a problem.
So will need to put a ton in the back of the hillux to measure the travel properly.
The fabrication is the easy part. I have no problems doing this, just takes time to ensure everything is nice and square before the final weld up.
And a few measurements of the frames to ensure the ram will be able to sit where it needs to. And adding some spacers where the chassis bends and curves so the sub frame sits nice and square.
Form e the hardest part will be the fuel filler, may need to investigate if there are any issues with mot testing and it's position. I can't move it very far as the tank is high up on these anyway. But should be able to clear it under the box.
i mounted my ram an a new x member i welded across the front two original body mounts on mine.mk3 hilux.havent got w/arches in the body and is fine with a ton or two
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