urbandekay
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Everything posted by urbandekay
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Sounds a lot easier than foot locking, will have to look into this stuff, perhaps an old dog can learn new tricks
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Ok so which of the many systems do you find easiest for ascending into a tree, presumably one where you can use your legs to push you up?
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So, now I am thinking that part of the advantage is that with lower friction you need less weight on the line to keep it taught?
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Ok, understand cambian saver, brilliant, in my opinion. Foot ascenders sound good but the problem, as I see it and I wait with bated breath to be enlightened, is that whatever you use to ascend needs a held taught underneath. Do you tie the line to the base of the tree or what?
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I have had success in using hazel prunnings as hard wood cuttings. Fast and free!
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Hi, as someone trained on prussiks and used a carabiner as an abseil ring, I wonder if someone could take a few moments to explain the advantage of all these weird and wonderful pulleys and modern tackle? Thanks
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You say the engine looks clean, I presume then you have heard it running and it sounds good too. What gearbox? Landy boxes can be a tad fragile, auto stronger than manual, and what the effect of the extra axle is on that, who can say? Why has it been standing so long? Was all the work done by Foley? Does the extra axle increase load capacity or count agin it? Given you can't drive it I would offer very little,
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forestry planning permission
urbandekay replied to roglog's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Perhaps you should join your local Masons! -
268xp acquired ran like a dog, clean and adjust carb. Ran but made a racket on tick over and stalled when tick over was slow enough to stop chain moving. Readjusted carb to no effect. Replaced clutch spring to no avail. Found that even without engine running clutch engaged. Removed clutch and found oil pump drive inserted wrong way round, refitted, still wrong. Replaced clutch, starts ticks over and after tweaking carb revs freely and cleanly - nice
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Bowler wildcat or nemisis
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Just been given a quote for a report on 5 mature trees of £450 Seems rather step to me
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Look for a good second hand Husky 61, robust, reliable and powerful enough for all your needs. Will comfortably pull an 18" bar for the occasional larger log. Cheap to buy, parts readily available, etc And though it is a little heavier than a newer Husky that's not to bad for logging
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The perfect splitting axe should curve in 3 planes: cutting edge, front to back and top to bottom and this will reduce the chance of it sticking in the wood. The handle should be slender to reduce strain, so you can use it all day. The axes people rave about seldom meet these requirements despite costing a fortune. Better to look out for a classic British Elwell circa 1945, will work better, be less tiring to use and cost a whole heap less
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Couldn't have put it better myself
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It's not a case of not knowing how, oil cap goes on perfect every time but fuel cap seems to malfunction
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I think it's a day course needed for Stihl designers, back to school for them, thinks I
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Slow torture is too good for whoever designed that
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So, if I understand correctly the difference is that an open port the transfer part is open to the bore and in a closed port the transfer is buried within the head
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which splitting axe/maul should I get?
urbandekay replied to John in Scotland's topic in Firewood forum
I have several Elwells, all my bills are paid, all my wood split, and mortgage paid off -
Nice! Only my top saw if Stihl apart from an old saw/disc cutter
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Anywhere sell a replacement for the ridiculous locking petrol cap on modern Stihls?
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which splitting axe/maul should I get?
urbandekay replied to John in Scotland's topic in Firewood forum
There I was thinking I was a lone voice crying in the wilderness! -
which splitting axe/maul should I get?
urbandekay replied to John in Scotland's topic in Firewood forum
Depends what you are splitting, for the majority of logs, not some gnarly old bit of oak, then an axe is a better tool than a maul. There are some properties you should consider when selecting an axe for splitting Axe head should ideally be curved in 3 planes, i.e. front face, curved from front to back and curved top to bottom. This will reduce the likely hood that the axe will get stuck. Many of the axes rated by people do not conform to these properties Axe handle should be a slender oval, a thick handle will be more tiring to use. Look at that Classic British Elwell axe circa 1945 far better than your Gransfors, Fiskars, etc. in my opinion -
Hi, Could someone explain to me what is meant by a closed and an open port, I understand a closed port to produce more power but what are the other advantages or disadvantages. Thanks
