pgwisn

If there is concern about the two separate angled uprights being too 'pointy', offer an option of a single-piece "Inverted-U"-shaped side upright which takes the place of the two separate angled pieces per side. That would never impale anyone and would produce a 'wagon-side' effect and perhaps allow better brush control. Of course short stuff and stubs could get 'stuck' within the side piece's curve, and the pieces would be marginally larger for stowing in a small space.

And please let us know how soon you'll be distributing this side of the pond...

I tried a VT but just couldn't dial it in for a majority of situations; sometimes it'd be quite fine and other times just too loose and sloppy. It got better when I started using the HitchClimber pulley. Then I tried the Michoacan (Martin) using Bailout hitch cord with six wraps, along with a bridge extension and Pantin for entry into the trees and for my weight and style of climbing it has been flawless. Only occasionally on crane jobs when zipping down full speed from the hook after setting slings repeatedly do I get any hockles or twists in my rope. Just tried an XT hitch last week, which wasn't too bad, but not as sweet as the Michoacan.

My most used ropes are a 60 meter XTC Fire 13mm with a 7.6cm spliced eye and a 45 meter Yale Poison Hi-vy 13mm with a tight eye that just fits a krab. I use three split tail cords for VT type knot: Beeline, HRC, and Bail Out. Not sure which are CE for you across the pond. The knot I have used for about a year now is the one I was shown called the Michoacán, also known as the Martin knot. If I am on the crane hook and zipping down quickly I'll often use four wraps in tying the knot, yet If I am pruning and moving about a lot I'll use five wraps so it sets more securely.

I owned a bicycle shop in the 70's and instead of cutting the helps' hours in the colder months (which would have raised the unemployment insurance rate I had to pay) I made myself temporarily-redundant and went to work for two friends doing tree work until the spring thaw arrived and bicycling picked up again. When I took tree work up full time, working in non-freezing temperatures was a novel and welcome thing.

Just a shot from a crane removal in late September. After setting the slings I'd zip down and take pics as Mike cut them free from the bucket truck.

Testicular torsion is where the testicle gets twisted on the spermatic cord, which supplies blood to the testicle. It can lead to Orchialgia, a long-term pain syndrome. If the twist isn't removed rather quickly the testicle becomes necrotic (dies) and must be removed. Also if you get the spermatic cord pinched it can swell and the resulting pressure can effectively cut off the bloodflow. I left tree care years ago to pursue a nursing degree. Worked in an Surgical Intensive Care Unit and had several patients unlucky enough to be dealing with such. Closest I've come was back in the 1970's - missed a landing on a bicycle seat and my right testicle was the size of a hand grenade for about three weeks. Still climb under contract from time to time and I use the New Tribe saddle; it has been the most "pinch-free" saddle I've owned. Be careful out there...

This morning was unique and became a little too unorthodox. I was contracted by a fellow to climb for a small crane removal of a cherry. Here he is set up to 'pull the second half over' after we picked the upright portion out in five pieces. It was an old 18 ton crane, and poorly maintained at that. I left before it got crazier. I suggested he hire a crane if he wants me to climb for the removal of the dead oak in the background.

Another way to store your saw files is to force them into the channels of a piece of corrugated cardboard from the edge. Cut the piece so it is just a tad longer than the file and it'll keep edges from hitting other tools in your toolbox. A nice way to set a line in the top of a tree you'll be pruning is to take a hunting bow, a spinfishing reel placed on a short tool handle, and an arrow with a hole burnt through the nock and a machine screw and stack of washers in place of the point. With a stout monofilament line and good aim you can place the arrow directly through a proper TIP (tie-in-point), then pull up your throwing line and then use that to place your climbing line.