treeseer
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Everything posted by treeseer
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its a SYN" Respectfully, Sinclair/Lyon found genetic differences, while i do not know if my old professor dr. grand (a great teacher btw) did dna sequencing. thanks for citing a paper from my old U though; still work at their arboretum now and then. you might wanna see G. oregenense too for the redwoods out your neck of the woods, also of the resinaceum lucidum looking persuasion well my neck is not that long; that's 3000 miles away.
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looks more like it's just dried sap than a bacterial infection; not uncommon to have some (maybe not that much) in either genus. maybe pop it off and see where it's coming from. maybe the buttress is expanding too fast to hold it all in!
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Just to show you brits that not all americans have zero tolerance of compromised trees: Nice job showing care of an abused tree. What happened to the other walnut? At 1:02 you speak well of the battle between decay and new growth, showing burls from callus with fresh pruning wounds from sprout removal--why were these sprouts removed? Trenching roots was one problem hard to remedy, but soil compaction and fill on the flare (evidenced by the "telephone pole" look) can be mitigated by clearing the flare and root invigoration. If the pull test opens that crack too much, what to do?
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I get a bit nervous at this prospect, given the damage that installing posts can do...what about 6" of shaggy mulch?
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Fill on the flare and fungal activity: a frequent combination in urban trees. Thanks for posting though; got me looking into G. species. What is typically called lucidum here i have been questioning, because on many the top is not very shiny. Turns out that curtisii and resinaceum are nearly identical and both are quite indistinguishable with lucidum without going down to the DNA level. he calls them all "laccate" and moves on. The interesting part to an arborist is that Sinclair notes conks have been observed on q rubra for over 30 years with no effect on crown health. work with resistance in infected seedlings also throws the whole concept of "pathogenicity" into question.
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Doh! I totally forgot. Vegetation management it is then. I'll go back to tree care.
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Possibly/Probably so, IF closure is not complete, and only at a pace determined by fungus-tree interaction. Could be verrry slow, see sig line below, could be speedy.
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without seeing crown hard to say re fert--if treee was just thinned--does a "proper thinning" mean interior was gutted?-- then fert would add a lot of end growth which aggravates the stability concern so sounds counterproductive. re mulch, why tell owners they should give up lawn (which they like so much they just paid to thin crown to get light in), with need/benefit uncertain. there will be lots of resistance to that notion; better to fight another battle? most important to keep flare clear--mulching that area would favor the decay fungus would it not? establishing objective first helps guide treatment options and we don't have owner here so...
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Challenge authority. Incite controversy. Shred the envelope, where it is weak. But be nice. I've only been chided by a moderator once when things got a tad heated. My instigator/victim got out of the kitchen, but i still come around, for the victuals here nourish me mind. Thanks Steve for pulling the rotten apples out of the garden.
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Buttress roots look very strong. The tree stands on them, not the core. Rotten or not, the heartwood is pretty much dead. Depending on prognosis of fungal activity, perhaps start reducing, especially where lean is toward target. And in any case remove turf 6" to avoid mower damage and give the trunk some breathing room.
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"there is over a third of the trunk is in decay, regardless of the compartmentlisation." Well, a % is affected by fungus; not sure what "in decay" means "If the tree had an resistograpgh done, would you have had it dismantled?" well i'd prefer a tomograph, but either way, probably not. Depends on species, condition, and most importantly owner's objective. the amount of support lost to fungal activity seems well compensated for by wall 4. It's what's outside that counts the most, structurally speaking. "Also could have the tree continued to live if the walls closed over?" by the looks of the closure--vigorous--it surely seems so. " And eventually the side walls would close over where the bracket exists to form a partially hollow trunk?" maybe not hollow at all; if denied oxygen, fungal activity would cease, and the affected wood's degradation would stop at its present state of development. i'm not an expert on these species but that's how it looks from here.
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Agreed, "bleeding" is a fleeting aesthetic concern. Far more important is to see the tree and manage the dose--got a picture??
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Stubby, I see the hard line enclosing the spalting was the limit of the penetration. What do you see?
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Thank you for an excellent example of compartmentalization, and the folly of condemning trees based on conks alone. The extent of wall 4 growth indicates the tree has stopped the fungus in its tracks, and they are--were--coexisting amicably. Never heard of Rigidous (sp?) before; ya learn sumthin new every day, if yer eyes are open!
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If ivy is potential hanitat for bats etc should it not stay? Good to hear of you supervisin pb; fit you well i expect Beats cutting stumps with a silky in any case
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Pollards, the forgotten art-discussion
treeseer replied to Tony Croft aka hamadryad's topic in General chat
As you say we could look at that and say whoa Even knowing of laetiporus it looks maybe excessive But the proof will be in the regrowth, gradual is good, panic not In any case beats felling -
Easy to see why; that layering process moves the tree smartly across the land. The sculpture is gorgeous; thanks for kindly posting!
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pretty colored fung. would be keen to see what the resi shows; maybe not much if the strike is not old. cracks are sometimes seen better with resi than tomo... where cracks are the features of greatest concern, perhaps a rough pull test from different angles, whilst observing movement in the crack up close? just a thot--fraxinus are quick to split ime, if unpruned that is.
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From your list it is clear that the objective that you describe is 1 to create habitat for saproxylic sp. and 2 to maintain a viable tree for its other contributions. iow, managing the vegetation for the sake of other species. My assignment is typically the reverse, so my cuts are designed more with the tree in mind. nothing wrong with vegetation management, but for me and my clients the tree is primary value to grow. So intentional additional wounding is the exception and not the rule. From all I know (but i don't know it all ), there can be plenty of habitat still if we make cuts to promote closure instead of rot. But what we are called to do depends on the objective/assignment.
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ok thanks i get it now but still i know nothing about the quantity of sprouts being the objective of pruning. i'll study up a bit on that.
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"the bladed tools are 'glamourised' because they don't give a smooth cut, which stimulates more growth," This hypothesis has been floating about for some time, but according to all available studies it has never been shown to be true. Your entire post seems predicated on a premise that lacks validity. "which is what you want on a pollard" well that depends on what the objective is and where the growth is. " I know this is a bit like telling your gran to suck eggs." not sure what this means but it does not sound nice--or accurate. "chainsaws are easier"???? this is seldom the case ime. If reducing to nodes with hand/polesaws has not been tried, perhaps it could be included in the next round of study.
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first road up the hill; i'll try to dig up pics; "can't miss" the tree, it hangs over the road.
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Yes, basal rot etc. causes need for late-in-life pollarding cuts; or a hard reduction. Lozzatrees, in Sevenoaks just uphill a stones throw from the train station is a lime with basal issues on the corner--did that one ever get pruned?
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Thanks yes i figured the reasons were historical, which is all good, but limits usefulness of the research for the future. The humble woodsman of 2013 can more easily access and use a polesaw or handsaw than a chainsaw. Using the chainsaw as the preferred tool in the studies seems to go out of the way to give advantage to--or glamorize?--the bladed tools. by thunder it smacks of classism and discriminates against those of limited means (or in some cases a bias against those noisy stinking greasy hi-mtc boat anchors). i used to have a helper who cranked up the stihl to whack every 1 cm twig; drove me nuts. it's obvious i have yet to recover.
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"Only a very distant vague memory of that one, any pointers as to where it was?" the oak was said to be ~1000 years old; i got the pics from mr. gairn april 2011 as i was researching the article. that's all i got sorry. Great questions by ARob; there is much work to be done to tighten up specs so we are not left with ~>500mm as a quasiguideline, or tree pruning is merely left up to "the professional's discretion", neither of which bode well for successful outcomes imo. re implements, i have a bias against chainsaws and only use them per need, much preferring handsaw or pole tools. so i have to wonder why the only tools considered in some research are chainsaws or "bladed tools" aka axes, or maybe halberds like that dwarf in the hobbit movies lugged around. trees are not orcs for goshsakes. unless the criteria for the study are more historical than arboricultural; that i could understand.
