RC0

No its all about image out here Tim, like the Stanfield sweater Im wearing ( you probably didn't notice that one)!

Thanks for getting back to me Old Mill, and sharing your story. Thankfully you didn't gaff out at the same time....but at least you would've had a free hand to save yourself. As is clear in the video, I adjust my feet to check the sights, not my head, because I'm totally focused and in tune with whats going on. I sighted it only right at the end for the last 2 inches of progress, when it mattered. Deep in the kerf like that its not gonna slip out. Why would it. Little things, make all the difference. Sorry to hear about your friends mishaps....but most likely they weren't focused, or not experienced enough to perform such a maneuver and stay in control.

Doing exactly the same thing and the saw slipped out. How? Please explain. Thanks. Edit glad you survived, BTW

Thanks a lot. Like I say, pretty typical scenarios, but a lot less time for filming these days. David, no there's not a scratch on it, and it must be a year old now. Having said that, I only wear it very occasionally, and even less that I'd have it on throughout an entire job. More likely I'll keep it in the case and put it on for a particular shot, then put it away again. Stevie I took the first top at about 80ft (right on Pat), the second at about 120. Pat, that hammers a joke really. I had a nice little falling axe for such, but lost it somewhere. I wouldn't be worried so much about dropping it into the bush, but more the point of dropping it when I have a top just teetering on the brink. I need a new axe for sure. Old mill, I know what you said was in good humour, no worries....but I'll just point out that the saw has west-coast dogs....when they go in, they stay in. When the bar-lenght exceeds the width of the wood there's almost zero chance of kickback. But as you can see I was clearly using the sights to hit the target down below. Its way more accurate to keep the saw cutting (embeded in the wood) until the sights line up, then stop. That's the reason. Its not advice, just the way it is. Thanks again

Thanks. I meant to say, its very hard to see the little tree just to the right of where the top lands in the second vid. To hit it would've cost us.....what I was saying about it being tight. 3 feet at most.

Saw Peter’s, and Mark Bolans vids, thought I’d better keep a hand in. Mainly pruning this week but knew we’d be blowing a top out at some point. Switch to HD on youtube First clip is from today: A typical job here in Victoria. A dying Douglas fir....we zip-line all the lower limbs across the lawn to the chipper, then look to land a big top on a bunch of logs down below. Saw is a ported 390 with 28in bar. Second was the last tree at the end of a long day. We were way ahead of schedule at this point (3 day job), so as tempting as it was to leave it till the morning, I knew that the perfectly still weather wasn't guaranteed to continue....It was the right decision. A tight shot, but a good one. I’ve got lotsa short clips like that, but a lot less time nowdays to ever do anything with them.

I just realised I just said something you already had covered, about the using the doubled line only for the tie-off and the wraps. Pardon me. We have joined double a line in such a way in the past by using wipping in 4 places within a 10ft span (outside the wraps obviously) with good results, probably with a 10mm DB in this case. This is not advice by the way. 35% strength loss on a doubled line is still pretty good.

You don't nee to run the double-line the entire system, just the first few wraps, for the initial shock load. The lowering to the ground part later is academic. Your setup, as you had, it might have worked with a bigger shackle (+5)....or would stood a much better chance at least considering where it broke. Bit instead of getting the full benefit of the cradle rig, your little shackle instead seemed to cut right through it.....so all you really gained by the cradle was a little extra stretch. I wouldnt wanna haul a monster shackle up there either though. Congrats to your friend:thumbup1:

All the best

Cody I only used that particular knot in the photo so it was easy to see that it was all one line. I'd use a clove in real life, so long as its secure. Way stronger, without the bite. And a 3 strand works similar to rope-on rope anyway, where there's a bite or a bend i.e. 3-strands. Where they run through the shackle also, they'll near always run side by side in the bow, no cross-over. Well of course there are, but thats not the point, you only had one line in the video, that's what I'm going one. Absolutely, and I dont intend to be double-roping a 40mm rope any time soon either. Again, my point was to show an example of how to potentially increase your safety factor with a limited amount of hardware, while offering an alternative to the configuration of that 40mm you had there in the video. Not trying to compete with or undermine you, just sharing something that has worked in the past for me.

FWIW. A couple of times in the past where there's been doubt, we've double over a line in the middle and worked it as one. We use a third line to join all 3 parts together and thus keep the doubled line equalized; the groundworker obviously controls the doubled line by holding the 3rd line. There must be enough distance between where the 3 parts join together to where the trunk wraps begin to allow the severed log to touch down.....even though the shock load is over by that stage. I still wouldn't mess with a 3t log on a real job, but if I had a wager on it, that's how I'd set up the rigging line.

It wasn't meant to be productive Joe. I just read his post, his first one ever and thats what came to mind. At least it was honest. I doubt very much it hurt his feelings or anything....same here, water off a ducks back. Moments come and pass, no big thing.

Joe, there is nothing to apologize for.....it seemed lots more people liked the vid than didn't, no big deal. In fact, I looked over the other stuff on your channel, excellent. However, your friends comments, a word did come to mind....starts with w, ends with r. Didn't say it but I thought it. You see codz, there's lots of members on the forum that have worked and traveled plenty. In fact, I was probably climbing and rigging with 3 strands in Australia long before you came on the scene, like many others. So dont be so quick to judge.

Codz, where is it written that people took offence? As for the desktop plane-pollarders comment....why would you say that? We cant all like the same thing, that's just normal.

The GRCS/Hobbs drop test was kinda more significant I'd say, Ian. Although I do believe the volvo was for extra drama. You have arguably the two most popular Lowering devices on the market going head-to-head. Amazing how many people have seen and been swayed one way or the other by that video, the world over. Money and pride involved....and these are obviously day to day tools, relative....at least a little more so than a seeing a big snatch in the bush (no pun intended). Sorry if I missed your humour also. Too much time in Victoria, clearly.

Maybe you had to be there. Probably it was fun to watch. Cant say Im sorry I wasn't there though, if Im honest. No offense. I wasn't feeling it. That rope was either gonna break, or hold. Who cares. You're not gonna do that over someones property, regardless of what may or may not have happened in the vid. So really....was that a workshop?.... or for the craic? fair enough. Before that, nice neat cutting, stripping out a big tree in the bush. Everything favoured, so what can you say about it! Is there any more footage from the workshop, Ewan? the how-too part? Thanks

Lots of lifts in this vid but the 2 especially starting 11:55, where the slinging, boom position and pre-loading has to be just right. You can probably guess ive got too much time on my hands at the moment [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLoZxsalHKg]Winter Tree Work 2010-11 part 3 - YouTube[/ame]

Just remember, I speak from my own experience, this is not advice as such....but if it helps someone out, great. Know what I'm saying Rob! The shorter the log, the harder it is to make it bottom heavy while having the slings adequately low enough to choke the log securely. If its not bottom heavy its obviously gonna level up, or worse still turn right over.....you dont want that. A single choker in this instance would make it tip more severely, 2 opposites are gonna stabilize it, hence 2 opposites is better for short logs.... and then by slightly setting the slings to one side at this point can still give you that little tilt that you want without too much of an inbalance. Swinging most often occurs if either the boom is offset from where the log is....so its always better to let the slings or chains settle above the log before you attach them....if they;re swinging around above your head dont be tempted to grab them and start hooking them up without knowing exactly where the tip of the boom is positioned. Deflection is the other one, certain cranes or one at full reach is gonna be for bendy.

Having the chains or slings slightly favoured to one side (tipping the log) makes it easy to read whether or not you've pre-loaded too much or too little by the time you get to 3/4 of the way through. If you get it wrong where the chains or dead opposite the log cam pop off and bounce....really bad time to have your hand in the kerf The shorter the log the more significant having 2 slings becomes. Long sections, one sling or chain is just fine - see 16:40 in the vid below. I think the bark hanging on the way its was is what was causing an issue with James' logs. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZZB_FTDnwg]Treework, Spring, 2012, Victoria BC - YouTube[/ame]

Whats with the hands in the kerf James, again? Dont answer, just more awareness needed. The groundies locking up the line etc....get some polydyne, you dont have to worry so much then. If you're gonna block down with a Karabiner (which you probably shouldn't), then the gate should be pointing out, not in. Same with crane hooks. The line or chain should always press on the spine, not the gate. For big conifers, if you can find a landing and devise a ground anchor somehow, a zip-line is way quicker and easier than conventional rigging, with less manpower needed. No haul-back line, just a bunch of slings. You shouldn't limit the use of a zipline as a means to save some dragging time by moving stuff through the air as is how a lot of people think....consider also as a quick means to put stuff on the ground with reduced or controlled impact. For big single stemmed tree with lots of limbs like that, you should always be looking for it when you price the job.

Night out in Baltimore. A great night, if not a great pic.

Thanks, yeah I will sort it....but not before I let my wife know just how much pain Im in over the next couple of days. Need to make sure she understands the full extent:001_smile:

A broken tooth near the back. Split down the middle, half is wobbly the other part solid. Today of all days, killin me it is, nothing I can do this week.

No problem. Really, we just scratched the surface. If it helped, great....but I think you'd have figured things out just fine on your own, regardless. Re: the old thing. James, at 22 you should be on fire. Are you unwell, or unfit? When you hear guys, especially climbers winging and complaining about how hard it is, how tired they feel and how this hurts and that hurts etc, then be inspired....to never be like them. So long as you're in the job, to be good at it, you need attitude. Again, good job on a big tree

lol, James, Well done mate