RC0

This big fella and his mate are nested in a fir at the end of our street. The photos don't near do his size justice, what a beast up close. He'll sit in that adjacent oak tree most clear evenings watching over his territory until the sun goes down. In turn I watch him from our balcony (the blob in the oak tree - 3rd image) or will take a wander down the street, stand under the tree where we'll just stare at each other. Passers by and motorists probably wonder what the facination but for me its a novelty thats not about to wear off any time soon.

The new Drift (one I have) is apparently much improved on the old....and I do think your video look a lot weirder than mine in that sense maybe. That tree looked about 70ft. Re: your comment on the 288....with an 85 lens you would be lucky to fit just the body of the saw into view, never mind the cut or anything beyond that. I dont believe the new drift is the best around for a minute, but does seem very good value for money. The new povHD has a 14o+ view and the software which is constantly adjusting to what it sees apparantly sets it apart, as does the price....but unlike the Drift and Gopro it doesn't take good stills nor has the time-lapse mode which I thought was a nice touch also. Just had delivery of the external mic also which oughta make a big difference to the poor sound quality. Overall I'm feeling quite happy with my choice, but only time will tell as I got over 5 years from the pov and it still works pretty good.

am I having dejavu here Tim! Rest assured, I didn't get a 170 with the intention to trick anyone into believing the trees are taller than they actually are. More to the point that I can capture far more without having to think about where my head is pointing all the time. Also, if you use reference points i.e the saw (my 3120 for the falling cuts looks more like a 385) and the time it actually takes for the branches or logs to land then you soon get the jist of how big, small or far away something is. That Arbutus was about 80ft x 60, and the fir was about 80 to the first branch with another 40 or so on top of that. Consider that and I dont think the lens so deceptive. Most importantly, the viewer gets to see just about everything the climber does i.e. his body-parts and placement thereof, the rigging, saws, cutting with limbs/logs falling in their entirety for the most part. Unlike a narrow-angled-lens which is more like looking through a toilet roll for all you get to see. I used an 85 degree for 2 years and can honestly say for the best part they are a waste of effort, with more luck than judgement involved in capturing anything of worth from a climbing pov. In fact I'd go so far in dissuading anyone from ever spending their money at one:thumbdown:....unless of course they're using it for long range.

Thanks again then you'd better get in shape Ben! James, the trees in those particular vids weren't all that you know....the arbutus was a bit of a weird leggy thing but the fir at least just a tall bean-pole. Having said that I dont really get an appetite for anything less....and if it ever reached the stage where 'less' was all that was forseeably on offer then I'd most likely find another line of work because I'd othewise loose interest in the job over night. The Humboldt cut is pretty much favored by most over the conventional out this way....and for working conifers most days it starts to become apparent why that is. We did touch on it in a previous thread, save me repeating myself. Thanks: http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/picture-forum/35344-fir-zip-line.html

The shape of the Gopro put me off more than anything....it just looks so conspicuous stuck up there.

Thanks alot. Hey Pete. Yeah I’ve made a few changes here and there which can certainly work in your favour on conifers especially. I need to get the big west-coast dogs and a full-wrap on the 390 though, makes a huge difference especially for the thick bark Douglas firs etc. In the second video the home-owner was a faller of 30 years and his son designed the grappling hook, sold at Wespur I think....they both involved with a big heli-logging company now. I was just making a point there, as otherwise there was no real benefit in those cuts on that occasion.

Thanks Dave, Drew. Looking forward to trying the Unicender next. Heres another tree from later that afternoon. Another climber had stripped it up to about 80ft the previous day. It was a back-leaner so I worked the underside only, to shift the favour of the remaning 40ft which I could then fold out in 2 x 20ft sections. Beyond that it was a case of wedging over some shorter longs on the way back down. Again, switch the youtube settings to HD to appreciate what the Drift Camera is all about. Thanks [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cY69B0c_Pks]Back leaning Fir removal - YouTube[/ame]

Change your youtube settings to HD for better quality....bottom right corner of the video screen. Otherwise its gonna look like crrap Some footage from an Arbutus Tree removal just recently: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MaEzKZGDL_4]Treework - Drift HD camera.wmv - YouTube[/ame] The camera is the Drift HD: Drift HD Camera - Small HD Action Camera From Drift Innovation - PointofViewCameras Vancouver BC Canada The wide angled lens makes for dizzy viewing at times until you get used it, then its actually watchable in the sense that you get to see everything that the climber sees. The HD obviously brings out the colour better than my old camera, but having said that it also looks a little blurry and lacks the sharpness in motion. The sound is very weak and nasal; the files are massive; the wrist remote was not reliable at all as I realised later that I'd missed lots of clips where I thought it was recording....maybe I'll try a new battery and a plug-in microphone next time. The camera unit itself which fixes on top of your helmet is surprisingly light and compact.... and the domed shape lens doesn't seem to collect the sawdust which is also a big plus for shooting treework. Overall I think its pretty good value for money, and a relatively cheap option for anyone looking to make a budget video to promote their business etc. The tree-work in the video is nothing too fast or exciting....I just tried to show a little climbing and organizing to showcase the wide field-of-view that the lens offers. Arbutus can be of very slow, taper (as was this one), yet evidently very strong...much like a Euc in fact except with bushier foliage.

Well, for all of its advantages in efficiency many aspects require a greater intensity of strength; it is often more gear intensive; returning from limb-walks requires a greater degree of skill and judgement; in the event of a mistake its a lot less forgiving for sure. Furthermore and probably most important, does you insurance even cover you for SRTworking a tree in the UK? To the best of my knowledge its not part of the national training and certification curriculum....not as that matters anything to me personally. I say this as its all good and well everyone (myself included) talking about efficiency this and that but there are obviously two sides to every coin which, again, is why I'd only recommend SRT to climbers already physically conditioned and experienced in canopy access and cutting using DdRT. Its not my product, place or liability but I'd still feel iresponsible in not making the point.

There’s not much to it really Stu. You find yourself pulling hard on the line (to take your body weight) with one hand while the other tends the slack, until inevitably you feel happy that the limb can take more of your weight as you progress inward of the canopy. It’s more of an instinctive technique that you just assume in practice much easier than what it is to explain in words. The pulley/rads thing is a nice option but hardly a necessity. And the technique as I tried to described is obviously not exclusive to the Wrench....in fact the Uni or the Rig are probably superior in that respect as they don't have that sit-back tendency that comes with using a hitch. The main thing is that the option is there if you feel more comfortable....I imagine it might come into play more for heavier climbers. For the record – I’ve spoken in this thread only from my own experiences. I’m not a teacher or anything but would strongly suggest that SRT is not for beginners....and that DdRT is probably the safer option for those still in the first few years of ‘commercial’ tree-climbing.

Work is quiet anyway but we probably wouldn't have bothered this morning. Apparently this is unusual for Victoria, and still coming down in buckets as I look out if the window right now. We have quite a big open fire in the front room, takes over 20in logs. Also have a very good bottle of scotch in the kitchen.

Hey Ian, good for you. Bet you're glad you started this thread. I keep checking in to see if that avatar gets replaced.

Mark, it ought to make a big difference, especially at 44 when the enthusiasm and acceptance for effort might not be quite what it was. At the very least it will put the whole silliness of hand-over-hand ascents into perspective. Several years ago I recall Paolo Baverasco, who was preaching the SRT message long before most of the current crop might I add, quote: “monkeys use arms, humans use legs”. The most bizarre example for me has always been to observe spurred-climbing where the climber still opts to haul himself up the line using his arms as opposed to walking up the wood on the spurs and tending the slack as the goes. What a waste....of everything. SRT is no different, only you’re walking the rope, which on wide trees is often even easier the spurring....and absorbing the progress you make verses the traditional doubled-line would put a smile on most any 44 year old climbers face I’d imagine. How many pull-ups v squats can you do?....I know the Doubled line can give you an M.A, but in general legs v arms is a no contest every time. Beyond that, while incorporating the pantin, canopy access and movement is just more efficient with less restrictions all over. For small trees it’s probably not going to make much difference. Nor for crane removals if you’re being lifted around by the crane....SRT would be pretty useless in that respect. Whether you go for the Wrench, the Uni or even that Petzl Rig, you have to give it time and tweak your system to suit your preference. Personally, I decided just to fully switch over and accept the differences, and in turn am actually delighted with the results. Having said that, I don’t take anything for granted in regards to safety, and there’s several new disciplines one has to observe and adhere to....but with the ‘learning and reward’ part comes that buzz of imminent mastery. What have you got to lose mate!

I really like the look of that Dave. Petzl have been in the big league for a long time and you know they take their responsibilities very seriously. Thanks again Al. Dont stop there:thumbup1:

I haven't really noticed Cary, although I'm still swapping and changing. One of the main reasons for me hanging it that way is so I dont loose the dam thing....so many times I've thrown something down in bush or long grass without thinking only to have it vanish forever. You really ought to share the mishap that you had right here on the forum....would hate to think of anyone taking things for granted and coming unstuck. FWiW I've always used a relatively thick, short cord for the VT, minimum 6 wraps....so while not as slick as some I at least know its going to grab at an instant.

I'm trying to get some answers on there....but seems as the threads 'Status' seems to have changed its no longer obvious when a new post has been entered. Can someone (Steve, moderators) please change it back to how it was. It no big secret or anything. Thanks

A few recent photos to add to the thread, crown cleaning Douglas firs. The first few are actually from a 170 we did just the other day. Had to set up 2 climb-lines : the first set between 90-100 using the base tie, and the second to access and work the top 70. The other trees are a little shorter.

its a ------up idea alright, dont care who originally thought that one up.

I believe it was Kevins idea/option also to route your lanyard around your back/over your shoulder and then hook it up to tend the wrench and hitch at the same time. Probably not as good as a chest harness but it wrks just fine all the same. Putting a loop around ones neck for climbing trees just seems so wrong to me.... I know lots of people do it but its just not even an option from where I'm standing. If you do make a purchase, best to put DdRT out of your mind altogether while you get used to it and just focus the different options that SRT has to offer. If you can uphold that mindset the transition ought to be very easy for a seasoned climber llike yourself. Good luck

I would definately wrap the climb line around the pole i.e. DdRT, but leave the wrench in place in case you need to rappel/bail out at anytime (choke the line and ascend srt, no need for rope guide anymore). probably between 11 -13mm, cant remember for sure, the pantin will definitely shread a 13 + anyhow, so perhaps 11, 12 is best.

I used to love my 6.0 Dodge, or at least thats how I justified having it....false economy. Shoulda bought a Hilux, woulda saved me a packet over the years. Just sayin

You can climb to the top of the tree with the RW connected up but still clip in and out via DdRT and your lanyard....no need for two lanyards or anything like that....and then choke your line as SRT if you need to do some cutting and climbing along the way. Being able to choke your line to any part of the tree is a major plus also....if you dont like the look of a particular crotch then you can just set the line below, on bare wood if you like. Same when working down a pole, set your climb-line under the flip line as normal, the RW doesn't change the configuration....but then choke it off and bail-out as and when you need to. We took out a cluster of firs on wednesday....I'm not sure a video would really do it justice unless you followed a script to highlight all the options; as a technique SRT really needs to be experienced to be appreciated. Nobody was a bigger cynic of than I in the past, but I'll never go back to all that hand-over-hand pulling yourself up nonsense. I'll try and get some video in the New Year of how it works for me....probably not the same for everyone, but the logic of DdRT is seeming more and more backwards as the days pass by since the last time I used it. Just buy one Mark, dont mess about mate. Use it exclusively for a week and see how you feel thereafter....personally I feel a whole lot fresher, and with some renewed entusiasm for spurless climbing might I add:thumbup1:

Has this ever actually happened to you Carl, where your TiP has been compromised and you've had to quickly re-tie elsewhere? I can only envisage my TIP about to collapse to force such a drastic measure in which case I'd just un-clip and let the whole thing go whether SRT or DdRT. Working on adjacent trees is easily achieved Re-directing via natural or false crotch....very straight forward procedure and the static line means there is obviously no compromise in the performance of the components....unlike DdRT. Regardless, on residential tree work where help is generally at hand down below, there's nothing that can't be pre-planned and overcome within reason....ask for a second line if it comes to that. You can throw any amount of unlikely what-ifs at both techniques, but that doesn't always make for a practical argument i.e. I heard of a climbers tail-end getting bogged down in brush when I was working in Sidney many years ago, no big deal until he hit a bees nest and then couldn't get down because his rope wouldn't budge at the bottom, you don’t need to know the rest....but it wouldn't have happened with SRT no matter if even the chipper was parked on his line. How many DdRT lines have been dragged towards and even through a chipper?....but still not really justifications to discard using DdRT either. My personal reasons for going with SRT is because it makes for way faster and easier access up and around the tree with about half the effort....the rescue option is also invaluable. Period! Why in the world would I want to continue pulling all that line through combined friction savers, hitches, micro-pulleys, redirect pulleys to gain just 1 foot for every pull....when I can otherwise stride a yard at a time and simply slip my hitch up the static line as and when I need, regardless what route I decide to take? Why would I want to carry on using my arms to physically hoist the weight at of my body (Ian's avatar) at a rate of 1 foot per pull/thrust when I can just walk up the dam rope in half the time, for any distance at any given moment? When I put such questions to my self I really have no answer! I remember a time when I didn't need a lowering device or rigging blocks either, because we still got the job done and I never really felt we struggled with anything using the methods and skills relative to the equipment we had. But when I did eventually get into rigging-hardware, the options and productivity made the old ways seem incredibly wasteful, foolish even. Listen, it makes no difference to me whether people get the RWrench or not....I know Kevin a little but I have nothing whatsoever to gain by promoting his product. But the fact remains that the man has changed 22 years of previous habit over the course of just 2 hours, and by far for the better....on a chance happening that I was given the device for free. With that said the very least I can do is share my findings with anyone who might have an interest, might even stretch to buying Kevin a beer one day in the future! Big thankyou to Rich Hattier also for kindly supplying the device in the first place:thumbup1:

I was gonna tell ya soon enough Dave, but am still trying to come to terms with it myself:001_smile: Although I cant believe it only took a couple of one-hour trees to convince me. I'll figure the big-fir stands that we spoke of earlier, it'll be worth it....and the crane stuff, well thats not really climbing anyway, more just being dropped at different points in the tree by the crane. If only it always felt this good to be wrong!

Set the scenario for me Carl, which part do you find difficult?