TimR

lol can we play spot the mistake ...... for a starter for ten .... buzzzzzzz.. yes TimR The blue arrow : great jobs and pics matt hmmm runaway chipper sounds interesting ...

what a guy

caught one of the little fookers in the act the other year ...

do you F*ck it or fight it ........... most cases your better of f*cking it at least you will have a chance of coming first

iirc i think that there is now a duty of care for customers who if they employ a contractor and that contractor has an accident that if they are not insured that the customer is liable under their insurance ~( i cant remember the exact termonology/wording but its around that area)

good job tockmal plus i notice the norm " the garden is 100% cleaner than it was when you arrived " scenario

h.s.e document on this subject bit lengthy but informative Tophandle saw use (download the pdf for later reading ) treevolution did the research here is a link for their other releases/research ( i see they are currently researching Evaluation of Current Rigging and Dismantling Practices used in Arboriculture so that should be an intresting read when released) i would say 60/40 in favour of two handed use i will always use my silky for tip work especially if i need to cut and hold as i would rather let my silky drop than have to drop the saw and shock load the fixings if i need a quick hand.....

his is my g/f's 9 (or is it ten now) smelly brown lump or more comonly known as Holly the chocolate labrador ..

roflmfao never known one of them i think a good climber is ( includes above points) but one who realises that in 90% of jobs they have the easy part and instead of making it harder for the groundies by making a huge pile of brush at the bottom give their team a chance to clean as you go if possible and when you get down and you stowed your gear instead of watching them hump & dump you muck in also .

i also agree way too cheap ... think of what wage you and your partner want per day ( sensible one now ) so say £100 for climber and £85 for groundie minimum. then think of your outgoings ~~(ins,rent,average fuel cost per day and any other outgoing (tip charge etc))~~and also a bit for a rainy day so i would say £350 minimum for bumpkins and £450 minimum for townies or price the job individually per tree etc instead of giving a day rate...

i agree as its in the heart. if it was visible from the outside then i would be questioning the strength of the tree . and im sure we all have done a takedown where you get to a section and find a rotspot that you think blooming hell if i saw that before i wouldnt have gone up there and bounced about so bloody much etc ....

cmon be honest all how many do an actual daily check ..... and i mean before putting it all on and start climbing .... the way found best to do this is to dismantle my kit after every use so my body strop would be unclipped my centre d karabiner would be unclipped and my prussik clipped to it and my rope in a rope bag that i always check the whole length as im putting it away . that way i found that every karabiner im using is unclipped and clipped once before use so i can tell if its stcking or faulty , my prussik i have to handle to re tie so inspect as im doing so, my rope is checked, i use a komet butterfly 2 and in the pocket of my bag i have an allen key and each day i check the bolts, and finally my centre karab is checked as i connect rope and harness . sounds a lot of time but its not as you get in the habit for those sticky karabs for the temporary solution i keep a small pot of graphite powder in bag light dusting and it loosens off but then it will be a case of boiling water drop karab in for a few mins then a good blow out with air comp and leave to dry and re apply dry graphite ... carry a spare new karab in bag and also a new prussik which is replaced when i bring it into service so there is always one there ....

im dreading asking but did you have any guide or model/picture to look at and get the dimensions right?

too late i've seen it and yes very nice but whats worrying is all those pictures of bare butts lol need i say any more

i got you now blakes apologies..... correct way ...... 1. shout up "can you get yourself down" if answer yes have a coffee if answer is no or no reply ..... 2. make gob cut shout to hold on and cut 3.clear up mess. if the chippers good enough for pigeons .... ........

also hope steve dont mind this thread being hijacked in this manner but i may be wrong but looking at your pic vdub of your rope grab but i thought that you were not allowed to use the pin type grab ( the one with a clevis pin holding the centre pin in ) without a form of backup ( eg secondary prussik) im not being mr h&s all i am doing is making you aware of if the pin falls out i would not like to think of consequences iirc it should be the fixed type ( bolted) .as i say i may be wrong if so ignore me im an :asshole2:

have we dropped since the last pic ?? or instead of new muffler try fabricating a plate to deflect the heat outlet away from brake ....

she has got that look on her face that says "Does my Bum look big in these "

put it this way if you are worried about the strength of your soft link i would begin to worry about the strength of your karabiners my soft link i use is rated at 22kn and the karabinbers are rated at 25kn and if i have done this right the yale wire core flipline is rated @ 2400kg maximum breaking strain which works out at about 2 400 kilogram-force = 23.535 96 kilonewton basically 24kn.....

best site i could find forwalnuts different species with good pics i may be wrong but it is hard to tell from the leaf pic

looking at leaf pic it has around seven pairs of leaves so i would say its a common walnut as black walnut has 15 pairs upwards. there is a cut leaved walnut which has deeply cut leaves.

hmmm they do suggest using a topping down strop etc using a back up system on the ground for rescue ops ... as to help especially if unconcious or a larger build so i would disagree with you blakes but in a nice way ... following taken from climbers good guide etc RESCUE METHOD C 3 person unit only Diagram The rescuer climbs to a suitable anchor point above the casualty taking the rescue rope up with him/her. The rescue rope is passed over a suitable anchor point. The rescuer descends to the casualty, assesses and makes safe any hazards which threaten the casualty or would impede the rescue, e.g. chainsaw, other equipment/tools, tree debris. The rescuer assesses the casualty's condition making safe where necessary and administers first aid if appropriate. The rescuer attaches the casualty to the rescuer's harness to aid descent and prevent separation of the casualty and rescuer. This may take the form of a short sling connected by karabiners to both harnesses. The rescue rope is attached to the casualty's harness. The groundperson ties a prussic loop on the rescue rope attaching this to a suitable anchorage (groundperson's harness, vehicle, tree, ground anchor, etc). This must have sufficient friction to help the rescuer make a controlled descent. The rescuer transfers the casualty's weight to the new connection, taking up any slack to prevent the casualty falling any distance then disconnects or severs the casualty's rope/strop. The casualty is gently lowered by the groundperson whilst the rescuer guides him/her through the branches or supports an injured limb. If the casualty is conscious then the rescuer should be aware that the casualty is in a position to 'help' during the rescue – this keeps the casualty occupied and aids rescue. The casualty can be carried away from the tree whilst still attached to the rope, if assistance is available. Rescue teams need to practice methods regularly, to be effective in actual emergency situations. RESCUE METHOD D 2 or 3 person unit 24 Diagram The rescuer climbs up to the casualty (using climbing irons and a strop) and with care, makes a suitable anchor with a suitable topping down strop to which the rescuer’s climbing system or a separate rescue rope is attached. The rescuer assesses and makes safe any hazards which threaten the casualty or would impede the rescue, e.g. chainsaw, other equipment/tools. The rescuer assesses the casualty's condition making safe where necessary and administers first aid if appropriate. The rescuer attaches the casualty to the rescuer's harness as in rescue B or to the rescue rope as in rescue C. The casualty’s weight is transferred to the rescue system and the casualty’s spikes and lanyard/climbing system are disconnected or severed. The casualty is lowered to the ground by the rescuer or by the rescue rope. If the casualty is conscious then the rescuer should be aware that the casualty is in a position to 'help' during the rescue, this keeps the casualty occupied and aids rescue. Rescue teams need to practice methods regularly, to be effective in actual emergency situations. ADDITIONAL ITEMS 3 If the casualty is unconscious or injury prevents him/her assisting the rescuer the gaffs on his/her climbing irons and/or strop tension can severely hinder release by the rescuer. In such cases the ground personnel must relieve the weight on the strop and/or gaffs so that the rescuer can safely release the casualty's strop.

just found this mooching about old style felling and if you look at the picture of them felling a willow im sure that they have slivered the trunk to make a narrow gob ....

from when i used to do this ( omg over 10 years ago) my only advice to watch out for is "wet days" not sure how th current method of line clearance is done with regards to these but winter time is coming and im sure a lot of these as well so make sure you have allowances for these .hope it all works out for you.