best trailer design

[flatyre]

True, that would be bad as well....but if somebody did (heaven forbid) get maimed/killed, it would not be because of a defect in Flatyre's home made trailer, as he is a competent guy and wouldn't do something as reckless as take a shonkey trailer on the road...Would you, Flatyre?

 

Any trailer can degenerate to a dangerous condition regardless who made it and with the non existence of mot type test for small trailers (?) they often do....

 

But yes, I agree completely, if, as you say, the IVA is simple and cheap - and even if it were not cheap - it is absolutely the way to go, no question.

 

I wouldn't even consider the project if I didn't think I could build a safe and financially viable end product. if something broke at 50 with a load on, its my ass in danger as well as the other road users. Having seen the cost of building a trailer verses buying one i'm confident I can produce a good sized trailer for substantially less than a factory built one, I'd like tipping or tilting abilities but that would stretch the budget and my skills. Another point is having been in the situation of a wheel coming off an ifor Williams at speed and under load, you just don't know what abuse a second hand trailer has had. At least if you build it yourself you have exactly what you want. Anyway picked up the new leaf springs, plates and u bolts today, will get the 2"x4" rectangular steel for the main chassis frame next. I have a decent 9x4.5 twin axle which will do me over winter.

[flatyre]

Well I've been busy buying up leaf springs, steel, 8x4 weldmesh, etc for the trailer, but seeing as someone mentioned a tipping trailer I'm thinking about it. I hadn't intended to build a tipping trailer but once someone plants the idea....Anyway I have a 3 ton jack which I rescued from the skip as the seal had gone. Its too big for anything I need but am thinking of repairing the ram seal and using it to make a manual tilting trailer. when fully raised, the ram raises to about a metre which is plenty high to tip a 10x5 trailer body if mounted in the centre. Has anyone ever used a manual ram to make a tipping trailer or can a manual ram from a jack be converted to run off a 12v system? thanks

[Ambisawrous]

Have a look at Flowfit website, they do all sorts of hydraulic gear, manual, electric and petrol at very reasonable prices. Manual 2.5t tipping kit with pump and ram £124+vat.

[treequip]

Well I've been busy buying up leaf springs, steel, 8x4 weldmesh, etc for the trailer, but seeing as someone mentioned a tipping trailer I'm thinking about it. I hadn't intended to build a tipping trailer but once someone plants the idea....Anyway I have a 3 ton jack which I rescued from the skip as the seal had gone. Its too big for anything I need but am thinking of repairing the ram seal and using it to make a manual tilting trailer. when fully raised, the ram raises to about a metre which is plenty high to tip a 10x5 trailer body if mounted in the centre. Has anyone ever used a manual ram to make a tipping trailer or can a manual ram from a jack be converted to run off a 12v system? thanks

 

The simple answer is yes it can but should you.

 

So this scrap ram you salvaged from a skip, presuming it can be repaired, is it fit for purpose?. Is it strong enough? When you describe it as a jack, is it from some sort of gearbox lift or engine hoist?. Please tell me its not painted red with sealey written on it.

 

Have you considered the geometry? Ram placement is critical to the load distribution.

 

Back to the use and construction/IVA issues, you can add PUWER to that list of hoops to jump through to stay legit and pukka.

 

Time was you could diy this stuff with impunity, in these days litigious days you do so at your own risk.

 

As far as powering it goes, there are plenty of pump tank units available, new and used, it might even be possible to cannibalise something from a tail lift (although most are 24 volt)

 

In short, I would go with something proven. As others have said, speak to someone like flowfit

[Marko]

Hey folks I currently run a transit van and homemade 9x4.5 double axle trailer combo for my landscaping business. Its a new venture due to being made redundant last year. Funds are tight so buying even a second hand trailer isn't an option. I do however have some engineering and fabricating experience, and access to a small engineering workshop. I'm a competent welder too. I get a fair amount of tree work at this time of year, mainly conifer topping and storm clearance. In summer I do a lot of grass cutting/gardening and have been offered some larger contracts for next year which will require a ride on mower. I know buying a factory trailer is the best option, but a trailer big enough to carry bails of brick, block, flags and paving brick for landscaping, tracked chipper and chippings in winter, and mower and cuttings in summer, with beavertail and mesh sides is way out of my budget for now. My existing trailer (which I didn't build) has a good Bradley hitch, jockey wheel, electrics, axles and wheels, problem is 9x4.5 is too small and there is no suspension, axles welded straight to the trailer chassis. I have a set of 4 new leaf springs with plates and u bolts and a good supply of metal from a local firm i'm friendly with. My mate who is a qualified engineer with his own workshop has built a number of custom trailers and has offered to help. I've got the materials, and the skills but can't decide what design to go for. I want the body of the trailer to be 12ft in length, but can't decide on width, either have the body riding above the wheels like the first picture giving just over 6ft but a steep ramp up to it, or have the wheels sit out past the body which gives a lower centre of gravity and lower ramp but lose over a foot in width. I think the second design is better for my needs but whats the safe maximum width for such a trailer?

 

 

 

Just two points to think about:

 

It seems a shame that the Ifor trailer cannot hold standard pallets side by side. I am sure there must be a good reason but it is still a drawback.

 

A ramp on the back might be good if you are a gardener loading stuff in and out all day every day, but for logs it prevents any loading machinery (fork lift etc) getting close enough.

[dent]

I think you'll probably need a 175 amp anderson plug running straight from the battery (with an isolator on route). I have one on my truck and it's useful for the ifor tipper amd winch.

 

You could fit a battery on the trailer and a trickle charger from the lights on the 7 pin plug if you dont want to mess with the truck

[treequip]

You could fit a battery on the trailer and a trickle charger from the lights on the 7 pin plug if you dont want to mess with the truck

 

Make sure you fit a diode or unplug the trailer before you operate the tipper or it could proper mess with the truck

[dent]

Make sure you fit a diode or unplug the trailer before you operate the tipper or it could proper mess with the truck

 

I think a whole plug and play system is available from caravan places that should incorporate everything

[flatyre]

very interesting food for thought, will chew on it over the holidays, it wouldn't cost as much to make a tipping trailer than I thought. cheers guys.

[wills-mill]

A complete set of tipping gear from a Cabstar or similar would give you a good start?