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When taking dismantling a stem


Lancstree
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i think it is very impractical, when sectioning a pole i couldnt be bothered with that, i would rather a chokered strop and just clip my line onto it. one hand can slacken the hitch, the my flip line and strop would jus get moved down together, then just a tighten of one and an adjustment of the other and away again. but i havent tried it so i can only guess

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You need not untie the running bowline. Leave a longer than normal tail from the bowline and the knot will break from lower down the tree. You can use it to descend to the next cut but it can be a bit fiddly if there are some stubs or twigs.

 

I've not practiced this too much yet but I read about it in a Paolo article somewhere and it makes sense.

 

Its usefull to know the technique, like all things there is a time and a place to use all these different ideas and the more you know the greater ease and safety you can carry out a variety of tasks, no 2 trees are the same they all present different challenges.

 

When chokering a stem i wouldn't do this with the idea off being able to descend a long distance like Tim has mentioned the hitch will just jam solid although you could install a fig 8 or large ring with revolver to buffer the load to the hitch then you could descend all the way to the ground (i must see if i can make this compact enough to use all the time), in my opinion in a situation where you may have an accident being on a chokered line and lanyard will present the rescue climber with a slightly easier situation to deal with?

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As I often climb off a trunk belay I have used it on a stem too. Rescuer need only to cut my strop and away I go. There are a million and one ways to choke a stem it seems. I dont know about the crash and burn that Tim Craig spoke about, it's not a bleedin aluminium pole, although I have a different perspective (perhaps) being a soley single line climber.

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I dont know about the crash and burn that Tim Craig spoke about, .

 

Re choked running bowline or choked krab/SRT - There's a huge risk of the friction hitch sliding out of control on an SRT system or just jammin up making it impractical for the tie in technique lanctree's talking about.

 

Shrek, adjustable friction saver - when you tighten it up on the stem it wont move when you take your weight off it as its a choked system so long as the rings on the saver are kept apart.

 

61423-DSC02501_resized_25%25.jpg

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Tim thats a tidy and usefull set-up, particularly like the knut with snap for adjustment i'd always just used a prussik will have to try this out, can't see why you cannot have the rings praticaly closed to stop rope contact with the stem and keep friction down, the taper should stop it slipping down i've never had that problem.

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Re choked running bowline or choked krab/SRT - There's a huge risk of the friction hitch sliding out of control on an SRT system or just jammin up making it impractical for the tie in technique lanctree's talking about.

 

Shrek, adjustable friction saver - when you tighten it up on the stem it wont move when you take your weight off it as its a choked system so long as the rings on the saver are kept apart.

 

61423-DSC02501_resized_25%25.jpg

 

i didnt realise it was adjustable tim, i thought you just relied on the size of the stem. i get you now:thumbup1:what distance do you recomend to leave between the 2 rings, what have you found to be the best gap if you know what i mean, i know that is a bit mumbojumbo, i cant explain what i mean to well.:blushing:

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