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Lucas/Peterson blade re tipping?


john432
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Are there many out there replacing the tungsten teeth themselves? I'm about to give it a go, need to fabricate a bit of a jig to hold the tooth in the correct position and angle. The teeth cab be bought for about 20pence! in large numbers. Found a very helpfull company online, who supplied me with 25 teeth for about 70p plus silver brazing and flux. Tungsten Carbide Solutions | Carbide Wear Parts, Saw Tips, Horse

 

Cleaning the blade is the biggest job I would think, and not excessivly heating the carbide. any thoughts. John

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  • 2 weeks later...

i tip my lucas blades my self, id be interested to look at where your getting teeth from as lucas charge about £3 each for them.

the Lucas jig is a rip off so i made my own ,

i had a bit of help in the technique from john hughes(thanks john your a star) and would be happy to help you now i have it sussed.

i have a big free standing vice and made a simple jig to fit in it.

i use oxy propane and silver solder to fix the teeth.

the first blade i did all the teeth popped straight off when i used it:lol:, but heres a description of what i do now i know better.

i made a jig using a snug fitting socket to fit the arbor this had a bit of threaded rod welded to it and a larger socket goes over the small one then a washer then a nut to hold the blade tight. i then welded bits of box section on to this and used a blade with good teeth to set the angle of the rest for the new teeth. this jig doesnt set the tooth in place, it only sets the angle.

i posistion the teeth by eye, which may mean the kerf is marginally wider but the retipped blades cut as good as a brand new one and .5mm on the kerf doesnt bother me.

so to retip i first heat up the tip area to just barely glowing remove broken tooth and use a wire brush to clean off solder. Then i take a file and gently file the tooth pocket till its bright and clean. set the blade up in the jig and position the tooth. i use a bungee cord on the blade to pull the blade down onto the tooth as the tips i buy from lucas are pre tinned on the back. using oxy propane i heat the blade untill just starting to glow then gently move the heat down to the tip and back up to the blade and down etc until i see the solder run. then i add more solder until all looks good and then use the torch to cool the blade down slowly. not just remove heat straight away.

then clean any excess solder off with a file. fit blade to saw and use mini grinder to sharpen.

I have tested some of the tipped blades with a jig and calipers and they are within 0.25mm of perfect.

takes me about an hour to fit and sharpen 5 tips.

i hope this makes some sense and helps you. if you need more info let me know.

James

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  • 4 months later...
Are there many out there replacing the tungsten teeth themselves? I'm about to give it a go, need to fabricate a bit of a jig to hold the tooth in the correct position and angle. The teeth cab be bought for about 20pence! in large numbers. Found a very helpfull company online, who supplied me with 25 teeth for about 70p plus silver brazing and flux. Tungsten Carbide Solutions | Carbide Wear Parts, Saw Tips, Horse

 

Cleaning the blade is the biggest job I would think, and not excessivly heating the carbide. any thoughts. John

Excellent link there, I need to replace about 30 tips on a 26" circular saw and getting it done professionally would be uneconomical but using the TC tips from here means the blade is not scrap.

Thanks.

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i tip my lucas blades my self, id be interested to look at where your getting teeth from as lucas charge about £3 each for them.

the Lucas jig is a rip off so i made my own ,

i had a bit of help in the technique from john hughes(thanks john your a star) and would be happy to help you now i have it sussed.

i have a big free standing vice and made a simple jig to fit in it.

i use oxy propane and silver solder to fix the teeth.

the first blade i did all the teeth popped straight off when i used it:lol:, but heres a description of what i do now i know better.

i made a jig using a snug fitting socket to fit the arbor this had a bit of threaded rod welded to it and a larger socket goes over the small one then a washer then a nut to hold the blade tight. i then welded bits of box section on to this and used a blade with good teeth to set the angle of the rest for the new teeth. this jig doesnt set the tooth in place, it only sets the angle.

i posistion the teeth by eye, which may mean the kerf is marginally wider but the retipped blades cut as good as a brand new one and .5mm on the kerf doesnt bother me.

so to retip i first heat up the tip area to just barely glowing remove broken tooth and use a wire brush to clean off solder. Then i take a file and gently file the tooth pocket till its bright and clean. set the blade up in the jig and position the tooth. i use a bungee cord on the blade to pull the blade down onto the tooth as the tips i buy from lucas are pre tinned on the back. using oxy propane i heat the blade untill just starting to glow then gently move the heat down to the tip and back up to the blade and down etc until i see the solder run. then i add more solder until all looks good and then use the torch to cool the blade down slowly. not just remove heat straight away.

then clean any excess solder off with a file. fit blade to saw and use mini grinder to sharpen.

I have tested some of the tipped blades with a jig and calipers and they are within 0.25mm of perfect.

takes me about an hour to fit and sharpen 5 tips.

i hope this makes some sense and helps you. if you need more info let me know.

James

 

It would be great James if you could have a friend video you setting it up and replacing the tips. Then putting it on youtube

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  • 1 year later...

Hi mate,

 

I was wondering if you ever had a chance to do a video of you retipping the blade? Im very interested, either that or if you were able to show me? Im just starting out and will probabily make a jig myself.

 

Dont get me started on the price of the other bits too!

 

THanks,

 

Hugh

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