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Smallest diameter worth milling ?


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The problem with any system such as an Alaskan which takes its reference point off the log is that setting up for the first cut is slow. In theory, there are a couple of nice 6" boards up the middle of an 8" log but in practice by the time you have set it all up, and it turns out not to be dead straight, it is rarely worth bothering.

 

10" is probably the minimum I would do unless it was something exceptional (mulberry, boxwood etc).

 

Alec

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Alaskan milling is tricky on small diameters. 12" and up can be handled with a stand to hold the log. Small logs are the domain of bandmills though -we had 45 average 11-12" cedar logs through the mill today on a fairly easy 7hr shift.

 

J

 

Agreed, the setup time has to be considered. I did PM you about Bandsaws etc a few days ago - expect u r very busy like us. :thumbup1:

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for those species i'd say 16" and up but it depends in the species really for laburnum, birch, apple, pear or any other species that rarely gets up to 16" the 10"+ is worth it in my opinion.

 

Thanks, that's sound advice.

Always seems criminal to turn decent timber over 300mm into Firewood.

I'm still exploring the economics of investing in a bandsaw, however that would be a steep learning curve. Keen to avoid the pitfalls.

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The problem with any system such as an Alaskan which takes its reference point off the log is that setting up for the first cut is slow. In theory, there are a couple of nice 6" boards up the middle of an 8" log but in practice by the time you have set it all up, and it turns out not to be dead straight, it is rarely worth bothering.

 

10" is probably the minimum I would do unless it was something exceptional (mulberry, boxwood etc).

 

Alec

 

We have the saw for Alaskan, but it seems that moving straight to a bandsaw setup would be the fast-track route to what we really need.

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