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Posted

I tend to stick with a bowl gouge right from the start as i dont like how a roughing gouge sometimes catches and scares the bejeezus out of me :) might take a wee while longer but im far more relaxed and to me, thats more important than speed

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Posted

I was told the tang on a roughing gouge is not as long or as strong as the one on a bowl gouge. So stick to a bowl gouge on bowls and keep it really sharp.

 

That is the advice given to me by my instructor at turning class

Posted

Never use a bowl gouge for bowls!!

 

When the wood spins you have sections of end grain for the chisel to bite, a roughing theg takes large bites and can give a bad catch.

 

Use bowl gouges for all aspects of bowls

Posted

i went to a demo years ago at toolpost and when i said that i used the roughing gouge to do the outside of bowls he looked at me like i'd just confessed to murdering his kids...

 

i rarely use it for that purpose these days as i use a 2" roughing gouge and that really is too big for doing the outside of a bowl.

 

the tang is not as chunky as a round section bowl gouge so that reason is correct.

Posted

I'm gonna steer clear of a big roughing gouge until I start doing something other than bowls (if I do). I might look at a bigger bowl gouge for the roughing but I'm in no rush for that I'll just keep watching eBay.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I use a 5/8 bowl gouge from start to finish, roughing shaping and sheer scraping, then finish off with 320 grit. Also I never use a chuck on bowls. I start between centers to find a balance point, finish the outside then use a glue block for the hollowing. No need to reverse again to finish turn the spigot or recess and rarely need more that a cursory sanding. It goes against most of the norms, but works for me.

 

S.

  • 2 weeks later...

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