Rescue - adding friction when putting two climbers on one system

[pd_denmark]

Hi.

I am looking for a simple, reliable friction system to add to your normal climbing system, when you put two climbers on one climbing system / friction hitch. I find adding a figure 8 is clumsy and require and "extra" hand. I would like to have one hand to operate my own friction hitch, some added friction that doesn't require one hand, and then have my other hand free to handle the injured climber.

I saw a demo once at the etcc, where they added a ring + carabiner under the prusik of the rescuer, which made it possible to descend two persons on one friction hitch.

I have tried to find the right combination of ring and carabiner, and the right size ring, but so far it doesn't work properly.

 

I really hope someone knows a great system and are willing to share it ! :-)

 

Thanks a lot!

 

Peder

[Ian Clarke]

You could do a bit of calculation if ur rope is 12mm the Karabiner is the same then you have 36mm not including tolerences so buy a ring just above and just below that and try it out. That's all I can think of.

Edited March 28, 2015 by Ian Clarke
missed a bit

[David Dobedoe]

Lots of options, needs two hands to put on but a rope wrench might work well as long as you don't drop the pin.

[Stephen Blair]

use a Prussik with an extra loop in it, simple and it works.

[chrisj]

How about the fig 8 system that they came up with when developing the rope wrench? I can't remeber the name of it. Where you pull a bight of rope through the fig 8 above your prussick and clip a krab through it with a length of rope to your harness. Once it's on you can operate your prussick as normal and if it adds enough friction to work srt, it may well help enough for 2 on ddrt.

[chrisj]

Ah found it. The F8 Revolver. [ame=

]

[/ame]

[Tom D]

If you were rescuing me I wouldn't thank you for messing around with any gizmo's, I'd just want to get down, you can bail out two guys on the one hitch in an emergency. or if the climbers rope hasn't been cut you can work both hitches.

[Bob The Dog]

The way I was taught on the cs38 seemed simple and effective. Put an extra loop in your prussik to add more friction to your main line. Tie a normal prussik just above your bridge carabiner and attach that to the injured persons bridge / carabiner. Take up the slack in that carabiner and attach yourselves together via a quick draw or anothe prussik looped between the bridges to keep each other close. Before cutting their line, ensure all the slack is taken out of their prussik so they don't drop. Once their line is cut, you can lower yourselves to the ground nice and quickly. You could also use your strop around their shoulder and underarm to keep their upper body in close to you. To me, this seemed simple and was applied quickly. I'm not sure, tho who knows until the day, that I'd be bothering too much with wanting to have a free hand to tend to the casualty on the way down. Perhaps a quick patch up in the tree if a catastrophic bleed, and then get down ASAP for better help on the ground.

[RichieR]

The way I was taught on the cs38 seemed simple and effective. Put an extra loop in your prussik to add more friction to your main line. Tie a normal prussik just above your bridge carabiner and attach that to the injured persons bridge / carabiner. Take up the slack in that carabiner and attach yourselves together via a quick draw or anothe prussik looped between the bridges to keep each other close. Before cutting their line, ensure all the slack is taken out of their prussik so they don't drop. Once their line is cut, you can lower yourselves to the ground nice and quickly. You could also use your strop around their shoulder and underarm to keep their upper body in close to you. To me, this seemed simple and was applied quickly. I'm not sure, tho who knows until the day, that I'd be bothering too much with wanting to have a free hand to tend to the casualty on the way down. Perhaps a quick patch up in the tree if a catastrophic bleed, and then get down ASAP for better help on the ground.[/quote

 

Ditto Bob we don't know we are gonna cope when faced with a potential life threatening situation so something that is easy is best. Do you want to be trying to remember something complicated when someone's life is in your hands

[chrisj]

That's how I was taught too and it's always seemed fine for me when lowering 2 on a Blake's. I just mentioned the F8 revolver since the OP specifically wanted to add in something to add friction. I supose you could have it ready made up for rescue use, to just clip one end to your harness and attach the other to the rope.