Securing a bench in the ground??

[Clyde Chainsaw Carving]

Hi there,

I'm looking for some tips to securely and safely install a bench in a child's play park.

I've made a few benches before but never had to install one.

I've got an order for a bench / sign combo. One end will be around 5ft -6ft tall and quite top heavy. The other end is around 1.5ft high ( seating height if you like )

The logs at either end are only around 1ft in diameter so are not going to be all that stable on their own... Especially with kids swinging all over it. I have a couple of ideas..

1st idea was to leave a foot on either end of the bench cover in bitumen paint and bury 1 foot into the ground/ cement in place just like a fence post.

2 ... A heavy slab at either end and then the bench sitting on the slabs and bolted into place with some kind of bracket.

3 .... 2 concrete foundations. Let it dry and fit on top of the foundations , again using some kind of bracket and bolts.

4... Use steel bar to stake the legs in place and then screw into the wood. This seems like the easiest of the 4. I have staked smaller , lighter carving into the ground before with wooden stakes and it holds up quite well. Never used a steel bar before ( wouldn't want the wooden stakes rotting 5 years later, bench topling over on top of a child. )

 

Any info help or input on what you think would be the perfect way to install would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

[growforest]

If it's in a play area (or any public space for that matter) you will need to comply with relevant British Standards (many libraries allow free access to BS info). There are many, and they are expensive to buy, but vital to understand if you're fitting this kind of furniture on a regular basis. It's usual to sit timber seats above ground on a concrete foundation, and fix with suitable stainless stud bolt / epoxy acrylate resin chemical anchor (or ss brackets and studs). There are lots of combinations. Must be stainless fixings - steel will quickly look a mess.

"Top heavy" doesn't sound ideal. Maybe look again at your design to make it safer and easier to install.

Consider also need for products liability insurance. I know it's a bore and Mr Anti Health and Safety will be along any time soon to complain, but it's a claim culture and you have to be covered, especially where young children are using what you've made.

[wisewood]

Steel sub base bolted to base of work. Its basically a tube with a footplate and top plate welded on. Stainless bolts through top plate into base of work then sit whole thing in the hole. It should sit level at required depth until you back fill with concrete.:-)

 

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[Clyde Chainsaw Carving]

Thanks for the help guys.

I was defiantly thinking concrete base is the way to go. Didn't think about the stainless steel though.

I assume galvanised would do the job also? Just as the stainless steel fixings are quite expensive.

Yes to be honest the more I think about it... The design isn't ideal. I plan on using larch as it's quite durable outside but I guess there will come a time years down the line when it will start to rot, causing any fixings to the base just to break away.

 

I don't want a 5/6ft tree trunk landing on a toddler. I do have public liability but obviously never want to use it.

Is there a timeframe which I am liable or would the responsibility be passed to the new owner after a certain amount of time?

 

Simon. I like the idea of the top plate and bottom plate with the tubing between them. This would be ideal as I don't have any experience drilling into concrete foundations! I tried searching for something but I presume this sort of fixing would need to be custom made?

 

I will give the local council a call tommorow just to see what their requirements are.

 

I might just stick to making 2ft owls! No hassle

 

Thanks again!

[AardvarkTreeServices]

When the job is done make sure you send the client a maintenance and inspection schedule so that any rot or corrosion that may lead to failure is picked up by the client. Could be-

 

Inspect 3 monthly for damage and repair as necessary

Inspect 3 monthly for loose fixings and resecure as necessary

Inspect annually for rot and repair as necessary

Inspect annually for corrosion and repair as necessary

Preservative treat all timber every 4 years

[agrimog]

what you require is profesionall indemity insurancse for any product you provide, a little different from public liability, if possible char the larch where it comes into contact with the ground, much better than any treatment, and a polyurathane type adhesive for fixing into the timber will allow for movement without cracking and allowing moisture into the core

[wisewood]

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Simon. I like the idea of the top plate and bottom plate with the tubing between them. This would be ideal as I don't have any experience drilling into concrete foundations! I tried searching for something but I presume this sort of fixing would need to be custom made?

 

I will give the local council a call tommorow just to see what their requirements are.

 

I might just stick to making 2ft owls! No hassle

 

Thanks again!

 

Its not my idea but I've used this method a few times now and its a simple way of setting work in the ground. Its an easy job for a fabricator to make and not that costly as it will save a lot of time and hassle when siting the work.

 

 

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[Clyde Chainsaw Carving]

Thanks advark. I'll defiantly be using that maintenance and inspection schedule, it would keep me right.

Arimog.. Great advice . Thank you! I'll need to look at this professional indemnity insurance.. I only have public liability at the moment.

Yeah it sounds pretty straight forward Simon. If I had a welder I would give it a go myself but there is a local blacksmith who makes metal gates and fences... I'm sure he could knock something up.

Thanks again for the help everyone! Much appreciated!