why won't my 880 cut straight?

[Dan Curtis]

I had a similar problem, turned out to be a loose dawg. One was straight and the other curling away from the bar slightly.

[michaelknapp]

i had this problem with 044 and i put a new drive sprocket on and that cured the problem

[shillo]

Drive sprockets especially on the big saws seem to wear quickly...

 

 

When they have started to wear beyond a certain point they start to damage the drive links making them burr... this then scrapes the inside of the bar out very quickly.

 

Thanks Rob

 

my chain looks like its wearing the same as your second picture, wearing on the bottom of the tie strap, i think thats what its called, the bit with oregon on it.

 

The drive links look fine to me.

 

I will have a better look at the drive sprocket and nose sprocket.

 

The bar certainly hasn't done anywhere near as much work as my 30'' stihl bar on my 660, and i haven't had any problem with that bar.

 

Guessing these bars are just subject to more stress.

[geoff]

Shilo, I think from what I'm seeing & reading here, you have you just need new cutting gear, sprocket, chain & bar, then you will be up & running.

These big saw bars get subjected to heavy loads, the timber by nature tends to be trunk wood which can be more contaminated than that up higher,and can be vulnerable to oil choice/ quantity too.

I have encountered similar issues, on getting new parts double check the oiler is giving you plenty of lube.

[Breezeblock]

in your picture of the chain it looks like the cutter has been filed too high even although the cutter is sharp if the file is too high the cutter gets the wrong curve underneath the top plate if that makes sense

[peatff]

in your picture of the chain it looks like the cutter has been filed too high even although the cutter is sharp if the file is too high the cutter gets the wrong curve underneath the top plate if that makes sense

 

I thought similar, like it's been sharpened with a too big file. Does it cut nice chips or need forcing ?

[C.J]

in your picture of the chain it looks like the cutter has been filed too high even although the cutter is sharp if the file is too high the cutter gets the wrong curve underneath the top plate if that makes sense

 

I agree , more hook and the chain would feed itself and not need forcing.

 

Also the depth gauges look quite high for the amount of cutter remaining.

 

Chain looks like 59LG which is 5.5mm or 7/32 file so unlikely to be using too big a file.

[Breezeblock]

I agree , more hook and the chain would feed itself and not need forcing.

 

Also the depth gauges look quite high for the amount of cutter remaining.

 

Chain looks like 59LG which is 5.5mm or 7/32 file so unlikely to be using too big a file.

 

it looks like a chain thats been sharpened with the rakers too high so the file guide keeps the file too high hence not enough hook on the cutter i would take the file out of the guide and re do it by hand

[Lumberwolf]

Gotta shove down and in with the file man. Down and in.

[combined tree services]

Without sounding rude I am actually a little concerned that your operating a saw of that size and didn't have a clue what was wrong . A chain run to tight will speed up the demise of a big bar , a poorly or un evenly filed chain will also aid it such a problem due to the chain constantly pulling to one side . In short you need to replace the bar,chain and sprocket and get a decent sharpening kit and use a micrometer to measure the teeth .