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Cheap saw for homeowner/DIY


aesmith
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Dear youngster.

 

what we're looking for, and what we don't get, is consistency. Draining the tank takes away the risk.

 

Did

 

I agree totally with you on the consistency issue of pump fuel. It is indeed very variable and can be pretty rubbish stuff.

 

But I personally have never favoured draining the tank, I have seen the insides of too many carburettors that have been stored dry.

 

However, I have seen the insides of carbs stored with fuel in and they can also be pretty grim when the fuel has degraded, undergone phase separation and formed other solids.

 

So in my opinion to store with petrol in is bad, and to drain it is bad.

 

This is where Aspen comes in to its own.

It is 100% consistent, every can is batch coded and each batch is tested on filling.

 

As others have said it will last up to 5 years, either in the can or in the machine.

 

In fact, as it is chemically stable it should last indefinitely, but thats a bold claim to make.

 

It will never attack rubber or plastic, will not absorb moisture, will not seperate from the oil, will never form solids. And so it should be left in the machine during storage. To drain it would be totally wrong.

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Dear youngster.

 

I remember when petrol came in 2, 3 and 4 star qualities. My Dad used to get by on less than a fiver's worth a week. And with these grades of fuel came Redex and other additives to make up for it's lack. Engines were designed to run one type of 'petrol' and what was being sold was a differnt type of 'petrol'. Sold as the same thing but it wasn't. It was something else.

 

Then came unleaded. Which was probably the worst thing to ever happen to Benzine based productes. And with it came 'lead replacements'. And at the same time came 'low sulpher diesel'. To get around modern diesel, add half a liter of mineral 2 stroke to a full tank - it will stop your engine from sounding like a bag of rocks. It lubricates the valves - what the sulpher used to do.

 

Then came Ethenol. And most of your 95RON is at least 10% Ethanol - Which is known as E10. E5 is - well you're the smart arse, you figure it out.

 

Then came all the branding of 'petrol' and now you don't have any idea as to what you're buying. Momentum, Premium, VPower, Supreme - you don't know the difference, do you?

 

So the reason why I drain the tank, if the saw is going to be left for any period of time, is just good practice. It's a good habit to be have.

 

Why? Because fuel changes, that's why, but habits don't. And engines, which pretty much stay the same, were designed to run on one thing and that thing changes. Engine design changes, fuel changes and what we're looking for, and what we don't get, is consistency. Draining the tank takes away the risk.

 

Did

 

Top notch presentation. All you need now is a big blackboard, a slideshow and a big pointy stick 👍👌👏

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Sorry for bumping this thread. I thought I was sorted out, but looks like that may not be the case. There are a few people advertising the Solo 646, would that be sensible if I went for the 15" bar rather than 18"? I mean was the concern because of the power of that saw, or because of the power in combination with a longish bar?

 

Thanks, Tony S

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I know you wanted a saw to run a longer bar... but 18" on a 36.3cc engine is hoping some. Rough rule of thumb, divide cc by three, e.g. 36.3 / 3 = 12.1 . I note it can be supplied with a 14" bar for under £270 and a 15" for under £300. Why not save the £30 and get a more efficient cutting combination.

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I know you wanted a saw to run a longer bar... but 18" on a 36.3cc engine is hoping some. Rough rule of thumb, divide cc by three, e.g. 36.3 / 3 = 12.1 . I note it can be supplied with a 14" bar for under £270 and a 15" for under £300. Why not save the £30 and get a more efficient cutting combination.

 

Solo 646 is 45cc isn't it ? It's £189.99 on ebay with 18" bar worth trying and see how you get on with it. If you just want the longer bar to save your back or occasional thicker wood it should be fine as long as the chain is kept sharp.

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I know you wanted a saw to run a longer bar... but 18" on a 36.3cc engine is hoping some. Rough rule of thumb, divide cc by three, e.g. 36.3 / 3 = 12.1 . I note it can be supplied with a 14" bar for under £270 and a 15" for under £300. Why not save the £30 and get a more efficient cutting combination.

Cheers, I've come round to that way of thinking anyway. I just started off thinking otherwise because I'm used to the bar being long enough to do almost all cuts in one go. However all you guys are recommending shorter bars, and I can see the sense.

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