Burley fireball stove

[Stubby]

Also it is pulling cold air from the outside instead of warm air from inside. Any warm air from inside will need to be replaced by colder air from outside!

 

If it is plumbed up to pull air from out side , that air goes strait into the stove , combines with the fuel causing it to burn and goes back up the flue not affecting the air in the room at all .

Edited November 14, 2016 by Stubby

[Woodworks]

Two things definatley worth checking is that the air flow lever has been connected corectly at the rear and underneath the fire and also that all the loose shot blasting beads have been removed from the guts of the stove.

I know its not easy to lump these things about but i found a fair bit of the shot in the internals of my burley when i installed it.

And i have read reviews where others have have an issue with this shot blocking air flow.

 

Im very pleased with mine.

Good luck.

 

Just been round to have a good look at it when cold. Pulled the mesh cover off and looks like the top fire brick had slipped forward unless I accidentally moved it getting the mesh out. Lit it and all seems good but there is a breeze today so that might help.

 

Fitting an external vent is not a simple matter as the stove is a nightmare to get into position due to position of the flue. Also not keen to get the fitter back as they ripped my dad off. £600 for a couple hours work and made a right botched job of fitting the register plate. When he muttered about the cost and quality of the work they just said "do you want me to take the stove away"

[MATTMOSS]

Just been round to have a good look at it when cold. Pulled the mesh cover off and looks like the top fire brick had slipped forward unless I accidentally moved it getting the mesh out. Lit it and all seems good but there is a breeze today so that might help.

 

Fitting an external vent is not a simple matter as the stove is a nightmare to get into position due to position of the flue. Also not keen to get the fitter back as they ripped my dad off. £600 for a couple hours work and made a right botched job of fitting the register plate. When he muttered about the cost and quality of the work they just said "do you want me to take the stove away"

 

I would have said yes take it. what an arse!

The top/above fire brick sits towards the back of the fire, slanting up to the front and the mesh sits with the arms resting on the back fire brick and slants down towards the front.

but it should still draw to some degree even if they are a bit out of place.

if its not too mush of an arse i would take the fire out, take all the bricks out, tip it upside down and make sure there is none of the shot left in the air passages, give it a good clean out with a little wire brush and vac and start again so you know the fire itself is not the issue. (not everyone is as anal as me)

do a google search on the problems some people have had with this shot, it sounds similar to the problem your are having.

you chimney and draw can also be a pita, but not so much with a liner IME.

as someone else has advised it may help to do a smoke test and see what the draw is like with the vent open and shut.

i would come and give you a lift if you werent so far away.

hope you get it sorted.

[wrsni]

[wrsni]

Think the above picture shows the set up pretty well.

[Stubby]

Think the above picture shows the set up pretty well.

 

Also make sure you get the side vermiculite boards fitted the correct way round . They have a sloping top edge . ( follows the slope of the primary metal baffle ) If you don't too much air comes from the back corner making a very hot jet that can distort the front shelf that the metal baffle sits on .

[Ashes_Firewood]

Does it perform better if you open a window?

[MATTMOSS]

Also make sure you get the side vermiculite boards fitted the correct way round . They have a sloping top edge . ( follows the slope of the primary metal baffle ) If you don't too much air comes from the back corner making a very hot jet that can distort the front shelf that the metal baffle sits on .

 

Stubby dont you mean the slope on the top of the two side fire bricks goes from the the lowest point at the back to the highest point at the front- its what the top fire brick lies on.

exactly opposite of the primary baffle?

[richardwale]

Just been round to have a good look at it when cold. Pulled the mesh cover off and looks like the top fire brick had slipped forward unless I accidentally moved it getting the mesh out. Lit it and all seems good but there is a breeze today so that might help.

 

Fitting an external vent is not a simple matter as the stove is a nightmare to get into position due to position of the flue. Also not keen to get the fitter back as they ripped my dad off. £600 for a couple hours work and made a right botched job of fitting the register plate. When he muttered about the cost and quality of the work they just said "do you want me to take the stove away"

 

 

On the door handle latch it has a position to leave the door ajar when first lighting the fire. This is paramount to getting the larger Burley stoves going. Mine will never get going without this extra air coming in for the first 5-10 minutes. They also need very dry firewood to get the thing going but by god once they are you never look back. Try lighting it with the door on the latch, full bore and when it's going close the door but leave the bottom air vent leaver fully open for a while. Good luck

[Woodworks]

On the door handle latch it has a position to leave the door ajar when first lighting the fire. This is paramount to getting the larger Burley stoves going. Mine will never get going without this extra air coming in for the first 5-10 minutes. They also need very dry firewood to get the thing going but by god once they are you never look back. Try lighting it with the door on the latch, full bore and when it's going close the door but leave the bottom air vent leaver fully open for a while. Good luck

 

Yes he does use the door catch for getting it going until blazing away. No problems then it's when the door get shut that he was having trouble. Will see how it goes now I have moved the fire brick back. The book mentions wood below 18% which is impossible through air drying in a Dartmoor winter with our logs going up to 20-22%. still it's not far off.

 

Thanks chaps for the help.