Stihl chainsaw cutting issue

[Dazonit]

Pic one

 

Would this scoring make the saw loose power don't know. If I need a bar or piston kit now or both

[Dazonit]

Check to find out what caused the damage first . If you have an air leak fix that first or your new parts will end up the same . Check your mix as well . Dont use cheap mineral based 2 stroke oil . Use good quality and dont use mix that is over 4 weeks old ...or dare I say it use aspen !

 

The damage was properly done before I owned the saw a the lad who I got it of did not have a clue and would of used any fuel and properly guessed the 2 stroke mix if he used 2 stroke oil at all he also would lend the saw out to any one.

I only use stihl one shot 2 stroke oil the saw has never really cut right since iv owned it hence the new clutch and carb clean out at the moment don't know if it's the piston the bar or both

[Stubby]

The damage was properly done before I owned the saw a the lad who I got it of did not have a clue and would of used any fuel and properly guessed the 2 stroke mix if he used 2 stroke oil at all he also would lend the saw out to any one.

I only use stihl one shot 2 stroke oil the saw has never really cut right since iv owned it hence the new clutch and carb clean out at the moment don't know if it's the piston the bar or both

 

Well I dont know without looking at the bar but a new bar would eliminate that once you have repaired the power head . The scoring on the piston does not look that bad so you may be able to salvage the pot by removing the aluminum transfer . ( spud is the best man to tell you how to do that with best effect ) then replace the piston with either an OEM one ( most expensive ) or a good qulity after market one such as Metior .

[Dazonit]

Cheers stubby I'll wait for spuds opinion before I order anything

[spudulike]

The piston has signs that it has had a slight seize or a little carbon damage as it has some scoring but not really bad to render the saw inoperable.

 

The compression would show if the saw had seen better days or not.

 

Personally, I would check that the plating on the cylinder bore is good and if so, fit a quality replacement piston - Meteor are pretty much the best after OEM.

 

The original cylinder will always be the best option unless scored or the plating has gone - you will see the aliminium coming through the plating.

 

I usually LIGHTLY hone the cylinder and fit a new piston, it is always worth pressure/vacuum checking the saw, especially an older one and then resetting the carb on rebuild. Be careful not to hone too heavilly but have had good results using one as it beds the new piston in double quick.

 

Goodluck

[Dazonit]

The piston has signs that it has had a slight seize or a little carbon damage as it has some scoring but not really bad to render the saw inoperable.

 

The compression would show if the saw had seen better days or not.

 

Personally, I would check that the plating on the cylinder bore is good and if so, fit a quality replacement piston - Meteor are pretty much the best after OEM.

 

The original cylinder will always be the best option unless scored or the plating has gone - you will see the aliminium coming through the plating.

 

I usually LIGHTLY hone the cylinder and fit a new piston, it is always worth pressure/vacuum checking the saw, especially an older one and then resetting the carb on rebuild. Be careful not to hone too heavilly but have had good results using one as it beds the new piston in double quick.

 

Goodluck

 

Cheers spud I'll have a look at the pot tomorow what do you mean by hone I'm a no is at this the only exspeariance I have is the 162 I did the crank case gasket on last month .

[Stubby]

Cheers spud I'll have a look at the pot tomorow what do you mean by hone I'm a no is at this the only exspeariance I have is the 162 I did the crank case gasket on last month .

 

If you don't feel confident spud may do it for you if he is not swamped ....Very popular man !

[spudulike]

Cheers spud I'll have a look at the pot tomorow what do you mean by hone I'm a no is at this the only exspeariance I have is the 162 I did the crank case gasket on last month .

 

A hone is a rod with two or three sprung legs with small grinding blocks on each. you put it up the bore with a little oil and spin it round with a drill. they are only good on the compression stage of the bore on open transfers but work all the way down on closed transfers.

 

You dont need too much use, just enough to break the shine/glaze on the bore - the risk is that they will go through the plating but never seen it happen!

 

It aids the run in period with a new piston and works well IMO and from experience!

[Dazonit]

New piston and cylinder fitted but as I was puting it back together thought I would check the gauge fillter in the carb as suggested by spud (I had just cleaned this a week ago) and it was sh-ted up again cleaned it out put saw back together and running it in slowly for first few tanks so far so good .

Orderd a new fuel line and fillter and cleaned air fillter hopping it will solve the problem of it geting sh-ted up again they should be here tomorow