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Husqvarna 162se burning chain oil


Dazonit
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HI I'm new here:thumbup1: so hello all

I have a husqvarna 162se saw that I had given to me by a man I cut some conifers down for . The saw had been stood for many years I fitted a new petrol pick up pipe ( as the one in the tank had turned to jelly ) cleaned out the card and removed and cleaned the clutch and sprocket. and the saw starts and runs ok but after a few mins of running the chain seems to tighten up on the bar to a point were it won't turn loosen the chain off and same happens again also when I put chain oil in the saw and fire the saw up the oil is entering the piston or exhaust and burning ie loads of white smoke remove the oil and it runs clear again . I was hopping to fix the saw up as a spare as I have a wood burner.

Any ideas cheers

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The tightening of the chain is probably a plugged oil pump, the burning of oil may be the oil tank leaking in to the crank case. It would be interesting to flush the oil tank so it us clean then to fire up the saw and see if it still smokes.

 

If it doesn't, introduce oil in to the tank and see if it then smokes.

 

If the crankcase gasket has failed, it is a fairly big job to split the cases and replace.

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With no chain oil in the saw it dose not smoke/burn oil I'll have a look at the oiler but the crank case seal sounds a little beyond me

Thanks for the replays :thumbup1:

 

The crank seal will not be the fault, it is the gasket that seals the two halves of the crankcase together that is most likely bad.

 

If the oil tank breather is blocked, it is possible the vacuum in the oil tank could pull the gasket in around where it seals with the crankcase.

 

Think you need to split the cases, this can be anything from difficult to damn near impossible even if you have a splitter.

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I completly agree it sounds like the crankcase gasket leaking, the gasket seals the oil tank from the bottom of the crankcase, if the rest of the saw is ok it is well worth doing, gasket sets are still available as are the crank seals, whilst there i would change the main bearings, a dealer should charge 2 1/2 hours plus the parts to do this repair, or do the job yourself,i am sure we can help you with advise on how to tackle this job, i know the model very well and have done many rebuilds, so can help you step by step

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The older Huskys are pretty bulletproof, I would replace the crank seals and take a judgement on the crank bearings.

 

Make sure ALL the crank bolts are out and cross your fingers on the crank coming out of the bearings so it splits.

 

I made a splitter and it works a treat - bolts on to the bar mount bolts - in your case, dont ever use a hammer, always a mallet on the crank or casings and remember the casings are very thin alloy.

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I have the correct tool for the job, looks like a modified g clamp, works really well, yes do not use a hammer, there is also refitting tools for the crank, the crankcase is actually magnesium, if you wnt to send me the bottom end i will split and re fit the crank properly.

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