The Mower Bench

[GardenKit]

This one is a combo unit and on a scrub blade so i tuned it with that assembled.

The sound was just the same as one of the bigger Stihl saws that have a rev limiting coil on them and is going bad. Most odd !!

Thanks for the info Barrie

Just checked the Stihl manual. The coil does limit the revs, it does it by altering the timing. The max speed is stated at 9500rpm +- 800.

 

By the way, those machines are not best suited to a scrub blade because of the weakness of the flexi drive shaft.

[Sawchip]

Just checked the Stihl manual. The coil does limit the revs, it does it by altering the timing. The max speed is stated at 9500rpm +- 800.

 

By the way, those machines are not best suited to a scrub blade because of the weakness of the flexi drive shaft.

 

Well that explains a lot …It is the baby one in the Kombi range and i personally wouldn't use it for more than lighter work. The chap has a chainsaw head and hedge cutter for it as well ! The scrub blade is on a straight shaft with gearbox not a bent shaft strimming.

[Quarry Wood Timber]

Help!

 

I have been attempting looking after a Husqvarna Pro Rider 18 AWD ride on mower and have run in to a few problems and could do with some help.

 

The machine is an 2008 model and has about 180 hrs on the clock, the garden it operates in is about 3/4 of an acre but is fairly steep at points as it is on the side of a old quarry.

 

The machine performed fine for the first few years, not missing a beat but in the last couple of years it has consumed 8 drive belts (from engine to hydraulic pump)with the length of time they are lasting getting shorter and shorter.

 

Husqvarna advised that it could be caused by the syn between the front and rear axle being out, this has been checked and adjusted but there has been no improvement in belt wear.

 

I have checked all wheel bearings and they are fine but when i try and turn the font diff by hand it is very stiff and offers a lot of resistance compared to the rear diff.

 

Has anyone out there had any experience with this machine or got an idea what might be wrong.

 

The machine is based in Kent.

 

I would be grateful for some help.

[GardenKit]

Help!

 

I have been attempting looking after a Husqvarna Pro Rider 18 AWD ride on mower and have run in to a few problems and could do with some help.

 

The machine is an 2008 model and has about 180 hrs on the clock, the garden it operates in is about 3/4 of an acre but is fairly steep at points as it is on the side of a old quarry.

 

The machine performed fine for the first few years, not missing a beat but in the last couple of years it has consumed 8 drive belts (from engine to hydraulic pump)with the length of time they are lasting getting shorter and shorter.

 

Husqvarna advised that it could be caused by the syn between the front and rear axle being out, this has been checked and adjusted but there has been no improvement in belt wear.

 

I have checked all wheel bearings and they are fine but when i try and turn the font diff by hand it is very stiff and offers a lot of resistance compared to the rear diff.

 

Has anyone out there had any experience with this machine or got an idea what might be wrong.

 

The machine is based in Kent.

 

I would be grateful for some help.

Firstly, are the belts that are failing genuine parts, or just similar belts?

Secondly, if genuine, are they fitted correctly?

Third, what type of wear is experienced? i.e.even all round, and equal 'thinning' of the wedge from both sides, or shredding, or is there ant wear on the back (flat).

 

Has there been a change in driver? as if the belts are genuine and correctly fitted then maybe the driver is just pushing too hard and needs more empathy with the machine.

[Quarry Wood Timber]

Thanks Garden Kit

 

The belts are genuine parts and they are fitted correctly.

 

The wear pattern is equal wearing of the v section.

 

It is driven by a few people and always has been so not sure we can point to that one.

 

It is causing me some what of a brain ache I must say.

[njm]

Help!

 

I have been attempting looking after a Husqvarna Pro Rider 18 AWD ride on mower and have run in to a few problems and could do with some help.

 

The machine is an 2008 model and has about 180 hrs on the clock, the garden it operates in is about 3/4 of an acre but is fairly steep at points as it is on the side of a old quarry.

 

The machine performed fine for the first few years, not missing a beat but in the last couple of years it has consumed 8 drive belts (from engine to hydraulic pump)with the length of time they are lasting getting shorter and shorter.

 

Husqvarna advised that it could be caused by the syn between the front and rear axle being out, this has been checked and adjusted but there has been no improvement in belt wear.

 

I have checked all wheel bearings and they are fine but when i try and turn the font diff by hand it is very stiff and offers a lot of resistance compared to the rear diff.

 

Has anyone out there had any experience with this machine or got an idea what might be wrong.

 

The machine is based in Kent.

 

I would be grateful for some help.

 

On the front axle check there is no wear on the swash plate adjuster dowel pin , i see you have adjusted this already but check the shaft is not moving inside the arm under load ie on a slope . parking brake sticking would be my other thought , front axle feeds oil to the rear so it is always a bit harder to turn by hand , These machines require regular oil changes on the trans if they work hard ..

[Jonny69]

Help!

 

I have been attempting looking after a Husqvarna Pro Rider 18 AWD ride on mower and have run in to a few problems and could do with some help.

 

The machine is an 2008 model and has about 180 hrs on the clock, the garden it operates in is about 3/4 of an acre but is fairly steep at points as it is on the side of a old quarry.

 

The machine performed fine for the first few years, not missing a beat but in the last couple of years it has consumed 8 drive belts (from engine to hydraulic pump)with the length of time they are lasting getting shorter and shorter.

 

Husqvarna advised that it could be caused by the syn between the front and rear axle being out, this has been checked and adjusted but there has been no improvement in belt wear.

 

I have checked all wheel bearings and they are fine but when i try and turn the font diff by hand it is very stiff and offers a lot of resistance compared to the rear diff.

 

Has anyone out there had any experience with this machine or got an idea what might be wrong.

 

The machine is based in Kent.

 

I would be grateful for some help.

 

 

Could it be as simple as the pulleys are worn and knackering the new belts each time?

[GardenKit]

The JD ride on had an oil leak from the crank seal, so onto the ramp and off with the engine pulley.

No room to swing the hammer to drive a screwdriver into the seal on this one, so the more precise way was adopted. A small, 2mm hole was drilled through the seal midway between the crank and the engine sump, then a small self tapping screw tightened into the hole and pulled down with a pair of grips. Lovely, the seal slid out easily, was not even distorted, in fact it looked as good as new, except for a neat 2mm hole.

Opened the new seal bag and compared the two side by side on the bench, good, they are the same, except of course for the 2mm hole.

Left them on the bench and dived under the ramp with a cloth to clean up the seal area and inspect the crank. All OK (except for a drip of oil in one eye and subsequent blurred vision, followed by rubbing eye with dirty hand resulting in more blur and a very red eye!)

Anyway, back to the job. Reached round to the bench for the seal, eased it over the crank, using a thin plastic insertion sleeve to ensure no damage, and tapped it gently and evenly home. Good job!

Reassembled the engine pulley and filled the engine with fresh oil.

Cup of tea and an eyewash, then back into the workshop to find a slow drip of oil from the crank seal.

Just the sort of drip you would get through a 2mm hole:blushing:

[Sawchip]

The JD ride on had an oil leak from the crank seal, so onto the ramp and off with the engine pulley.

No room to swing the hammer to drive a screwdriver into the seal on this one, so the more precise way was adopted. A small, 2mm hole was drilled through the seal midway between the crank and the engine sump, then a small self tapping screw tightened into the hole and pulled down with a pair of grips. Lovely, the seal slid out easily, was not even distorted, in fact it looked as good as new, except for a neat 2mm hole.

Opened the new seal bag and compared the two side by side on the bench, good, they are the same, except of course for the 2mm hole.

Left them on the bench and dived under the ramp with a cloth to clean up the seal area and inspect the crank. All OK (except for a drip of oil in one eye and subsequent blurred vision, followed by rubbing eye with dirty hand resulting in more blur and a very red eye!)

Anyway, back to the job. Reached round to the bench for the seal, eased it over the crank, using a thin plastic insertion sleeve to ensure no damage, and tapped it gently and evenly home. Good job!

Reassembled the engine pulley and filled the engine with fresh oil.

Cup of tea and an eyewash, then back into the workshop to find a slow drip of oil from the crank seal.

Just the sort of drip you would get through a 2mm hole:blushing:

Oh No !!! you didn't did you , Old seal ? Thats just "Cruel" on top of a sore eye ...

[GardenKit]

Oh No !!! you didn't did you , Old seal ? Thats just "Cruel" on top of a sore eye ...

Yep, sure did, but thats not all.

 

When I checked out the leak I had not considered the 2mm hole, as I obviously was under the impression that it was the new seal. As oil was dripping from the seal I did not see the hole, i just though that somehow I had seriously damaged the lip on installation. Could not really understand how, so no alternative but to remove the seal for inspection. Of course, by now I am expert at this, so I drill a 2mm hole, insert a self tapper and pull. Out pops the seal, nice and straight (in a round sort of way).

Wipe it off and hold it under the bench light to inspect the lip and saw two 2mm holes. It took a while but it slowly dawned on me that I need to inspect he contents of my bin, where, as if by magic I found a brand new seal.