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Hi all, Iv'e bought a viking MB253T second hand mower ,the drive to propel the mower seems really slow:confused1:,Is there anyway to speed the drive up or is it just how it is??

Thanks in advance

The MB253T is an economy mower with a single speed transmission. This means that the forward speed is directly proportional to engine speed, so as long as there is no 'slip' present in the drive (e.g. loose belt) there is no way of speeding up the forward speed beyond the designed speed.

 

It may however be possible to increase the engine speed on the governor control. Typically engine speed is set at a level that keeps the noise below the legal limit, but this is usually below the rated engine sped of the engine. You can increase your engine speed to a max of about 3600 rpm , but I would suggest around 3200rpm is a nice compromise and probably quite an increase over the present setting which is probably around 2800.

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Many ride on mowers have 'timed decks' where the two blades are driven by a toothed belt. These definitely give the best cut, but the downside is that if used roughly the belts can break and they are expensive to replace.

Sometimes the blades show that there has been an impact which causes failure, but sometimes there is not obvious reason.

Yesterday, during a service,I caught one of the culprits of belt failure before it damaged the belt, showing the importance of keeping the top of the deck clean. P1020031.jpg.0cecc88aad6414a2d5b95725e0bfe519.jpg

 

P1020032.jpg.f2a47d9c816f20255f8b71e2e8095962.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
Help please!

I've got s Suffolk punch 14 that I use as a scarifier with the cassette.

It's just started to die under load. It starts fine then when I engage it just dies. It's getting fuel but I don't want to rip into it without some idea of what's wrong. Many thanks for any tips in advance

Hi Richard.

Firstly identify whether the engine is dying, or being killed. i.e, is the load killing the engine because something is not rotating properly. Best way to check is remove the side cover and make sure everything spins freely.

 

If all of that is fine then the problem is 99% certain to be carburettor, most likely contaminated. Be careful removing the bowl and try not to damage or stretch the bowl seal, not easy to find a replacement.

Clean the carb thoroughly and you should be OK.

 

Stale petrol is one of the favourite causes of contamination, followed by water and 'phase separation' which results from stale fuel and water combined.

 

Good luck.

Barrie

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Hi Richard.

Firstly identify whether the engine is dying, or being killed. i.e, is the load killing the engine because something is not rotating properly. Best way to check is remove the side cover and make sure everything spins freely.

 

If all of that is fine then the problem is 99% certain to be carburettor, most likely contaminated. Be careful removing the bowl and try not to damage or stretch the bowl seal, not easy to find a replacement.

Clean the carb thoroughly and you should be OK.

 

Stale petrol is one of the favourite causes of contamination, followed by water and 'phase separation' which results from stale fuel and water combined.

 

Good luck.

Barrie

 

 

Thanks for the quick reply!

 

It may be a stale fuel problem or even something sticking in the end plate cog area. Problem is I don't use it nearly enough it comes out a few times a year!

Petrol has been in since April and that will have been mixed with some from last October.

I'll check the cogs first and may get lucky.

Can you get carb kits for them?

The machine is not that old and it now I think on it it's not a Suffolk punch I don't think it's a green one with a Briggs engine.

I'll have to nip down and find out.

Thanks Richard

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  • 3 weeks later...

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