Husq 365 X-Torq modding

[18 stoner]

Got mine done in the week and ran it in some big timber yesterday.

 

Can say it's definitely a 372 now, the difference is very noticeable.

 

Not sure it's got the poke of my "pre xtorq 372" but it has a can mod too. I'm also led to believe the xtorq is not as good anyhow, so I'm happy with the results.

 

Moderate can mod next. 👍

[mattyboy]

If you've got the ability to take the cover off then the actual modification would be the easy part I use an Aldi version of the Dremel to clean the ports on scooter barrels, had it for years and it cost £12.99 with a flexible drive attachment which comes in handy.

 

Yes! definitely the hardest to put back on top case! will invest in a dremel type device and grind that fin away!

[wisecobandit]

IIRC the covers are about £25 each Matty so well worth investing in a dremel if you haven't got one.

[18 stoner]

There's no need to take the pot off.

 

In fact, I guess I ought to add how little I stripped mine down for those who are scared by the thought of it being a big job.

 

I took off the bar and clutch cover. Full top cover and starter assembly cover. Then pop off the stop cable and ht lead from the circulation cover and remove the cover itself. The baffle plate on the flywheel side is now removable. A little tight between the fins of the flywheel, for the lower two bolts, but possible.

 

You could leave the flywheel side plate until the removal of the clutch side if you have trouble. Now, I took the two lower exhaust bracket bolts out, the ones into the saw body. Next remove the four studs holding the pot onto the body. The two at the front(nearest the can) can be left in situ, in fact I left my Allen key in the rubber locating grommet throughout, it being the last stud to be removed.

 

The pot, carb, and can can now be lifted high enough to access the lower securing studs on the clutch side plate( or at least it was enough on mine!).

 

I was lucky not needing to separate the can, carb, of any pipes or linkages, but a certain amount of this was due to particular tools used, as we are still talking of tight working area margins here.

 

On removal of the plates, following modding, it's basically refit in reverse of the above. A little care is needed though for the sealing ring that fits in the plate. This is slightly fiddly due to the pot still being in situ, but I found it best to sit the seal in the plate with a film of grease to hold in place while the studs are put in. Also, make sure you locate the studs into their old threads as they can go in cross threaded, being the self locating/threading type.

 

Hope this isn't too baffling after I said it was simple, and will be of help to someone.

[mattyboy]

There's no need to take the pot off.

 

In fact, I guess I ought to add how little I stripped mine down for those who are scared by the thought of it being a big job.

 

I took off the bar and clutch cover. Full top cover and starter assembly cover. Then pop off the stop cable and ht lead from the circulation cover and remove the cover itself. The baffle plate on the flywheel side is now removable. A little tight between the fins of the flywheel, for the lower two bolts, but possible.

 

You could leave the flywheel side plate until the removal of the clutch side if you have trouble. Now, I took the two lower exhaust bracket bolts out, the ones into the saw body. Next remove the four studs holding the pot onto the body. The two at the front(nearest the can) can be left in situ, in fact I left my Allen key in the rubber locating grommet throughout, it being the last stud to be removed.

 

The pot, carb, and can can now be lifted high enough to access the lower securing studs on the clutch side plate( or at least it was enough on mine!).

 

I was lucky not needing to separate the can, carb, of any pipes or linkages, but a certain amount of this was due to particular tools used, as we are still talking of tight working area margins here.

 

On removal of the plates, following modding, it's basically refit in reverse of the above. A little care is needed though for the sealing ring that fits in the plate. This is slightly fiddly due to the pot still being in situ, but I found it best to sit the seal in the plate with a film of grease to hold in place while the studs are put in. Also, make sure you locate the studs into their old threads as they can go in cross threaded, being the self locating/threading type.

 

Hope this isn't too baffling after I said it was simple, and will be of help to someone.

 

Brill, so you ca leave the carb side of the pot attached and the exhaust pretty much, makes life easier. cheers

[wyk]

The easiest petrol powered machine you could possibly work on is a chainsaw. There's no need to approach it with any trepidation. There are few parts, and they mostly can only go in a certain way. There are loads of videos on line that show how to make repairs on your saw. Even though I have worked on them for years, I occasionally check a few to see if there are any tricks I can use when I head into a unfamiliar saw. Once you get a saw apart for the first time, you'll realize how easy it is, and any work in the future will be a relative cakewalk.

[18 stoner]

Brill, so you ca leave the carb side of the pot attached and the exhaust pretty much, makes life easier. cheers

 

 

Yeh, it worked on mine. The worst issue I could see possibly happening is getting dirt under the pot gasket, and if you pull the pot too far upwards for access you may pop off some fuel lines. Easy enough to put pipes back on, but I'd advise cleaning the saw thoroughly before dismantling. Mine was made easier here too as it's almost new, so had none of that built up oily crud.

[mattyboy]

Yeh, it worked on mine. The worst issue I could see possibly happening is getting dirt under the pot gasket, and if you pull the pot too far upwards for access you may pop off some fuel lines. Easy enough to put pipes back on, but I'd advise cleaning the saw thoroughly before dismantling. Mine was made easier here too as it's almost new, so had none of that built up oily crud.

 

Mine was delivered last week so has literally cut 2 logs just to check it was working, bought it specifically in mind for this mod. Anyone done any mods to the exhaust as well to get a bit extra hp out?

[18 stoner]

 

 

The above is on my "pre xtorq" 372. Baffles are gutted out with new twin ports, slight larger than the original single.

 

It's VERY loud though😜

Edited April 6, 2014 by 18 stoner

[mattyboy]

What dremel and bit is the best for grinding the steel off? I just bought a cheap one for 15 quid off ebay and it is seriously slow. Maybe i have the wrong grinding stone?

 

What do you guys use?

 

cheers