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Anyone used a grader box/land leveller?


chris23a
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The first time the potholes appeared I just threw some blinding in and levelled it off, that lasted about a week. Then I did the same but went over it with the compactor plate afterwards, that lasted about a month. The concrete was only slightly better. Im fed up fixing them and its costing me time and money. I need a longer lasting and more cost effective solution.

 

I'm assuming its quite s slope, hence why its washing out?

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The only way (I'm willing to be corrected) I've come across is the rip the road up, re grade and roll the road. All other methods have just been temp repairs. I've seen a demo of one of the machines which add cement to bind and within 24 hours of it first failing the whole section was trashed (timber haulage route) I've done a lot of pre and post rally repairs and rip, grade and roll always gives the longest and strongest results. But the ripper alone costs 2k. A 40-dust aggregate holds better than clean stone as the natural lime creates a seal. Good drainage is also important. As soon as you have standing water either on or next to a road the second it freezes the road will begin to collapse. If you want to fix it so you don't have to keep fetteling it, it's going to take more than £600. Where in the country are you?

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A slightly different approach - if possible, try to get a bit of a cross fall on the lane and form a channel along one side to clear the water. We find pot holes are worse on lanes with no camber and water lying or washing along them. Not sure if about the strength of this one although it looks similar to the BLEC one which works for gravel driveways but best on soil grading jobs. If the base material is fine aggregate it may be able to loosen it enough to regrade. The blobs of concrete might stress the tines though.

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The only way (I'm willing to be corrected) I've come across is the rip the road up, re grade and roll the road. All other methods have just been temp repairs. I've seen a demo of one of the machines which add cement to bind and within 24 hours of it first failing the whole section was trashed (timber haulage route) I've done a lot of pre and post rally repairs and rip, grade and roll always gives the longest and strongest results. But the ripper alone costs 2k. A 40-dust aggregate holds better than clean stone as the natural lime creates a seal. Good drainage is also important. As soon as you have standing water either on or next to a road the second it freezes the road will begin to collapse. If you want to fix it so you don't have to keep fetteling it, it's going to take more than £600. Where in the country are you?

 

Northern Ireland

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I have a box grader, to pull all the tines through topsoil we use a 70 hp tractor,to pull up compacted hardcore we use a d6 bulldozer and this struggles if too deep, the box is too light in construction for anything but soil. Try digging the potholes deeper then back filling with well compacted granular road platings on ahot day this usually works

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I've got one summat like this

 

MENAGE GRADER/ARENA LEVELLER/LAND GRADER WITH 3 POINT LINGAGE CAT 1 | eBay and a half mile track

 

Frankly it does very little for improving the lane....it just slides across the top...i think its really for landscapers to level soil after they have dumped it

 

Ok for removing leaves when they build up to the point where I'm leaved in ( like being snowed in) and ok if you drop gravel and need to level the gravel

 

Sorted problem ( i hope) by getting contractor to surface road with mix of clay and gravel .....he builds forestry roads and access roads to wind turbines .....keeping water off the road is essential too...braking and accelerating will break it up too...

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