Spuds Porting and Tuning Thread

[Stubby]

Aye all that is 1/4 for carving? And what's the rest mean/used for

 

You would have to ask the carvers on here what is their preference but I would think so . 3/8 low profile is usually found on climbing saws , powered pole saws etc . .325 pitch is usually found on 40 - 45 - 50cc saws ( this can be narrow kerf / pixal or semi chiz or full chiz . dependent on home owner , semi pro or pro saws ) 3/8 usually from 60cc up to around 80 or maybe 90 cc . .404 pitch is usually the territory of say 80 cc upwards .

[div_h]

Spot on stubby :

[spudulike]

Try Oregon Microlite Pro with 95VPX chain. It is a narrow kerf system with a 1.3mm chain on 0.325 pitch.

 

The marketing says it is 15% faster in the cut and the truth is.................it is 15% faster in the cut:thumbup:

 

I use this on my ported 357XP, you basically are cutting with a narrower bar and chain which saps less power than a wider system with full chisel.

 

I have timed it and thats how I know!

[div_h]

Try Oregon Microlite Pro with 95VPX chain. It is a narrow kerf system with a 1.3mm chain on 0.325 pitch.

 

The marketing says it is 15% faster in the cut and the truth is.................it is 15% faster in the cut:thumbup:

 

I use this on my ported 357XP, you basically are cutting with a narrower bar and chain which saps less power than a wider system with full chisel.

 

I have timed it and thats how I know!

 

I got these of rob for my saw before I was wanting to try differnt chains/sprockets but I shall stick with it for now:001_rolleyes:

[wyk]

When you say "removing the heel of the tooth" what do you mean? I always take my rakers down more than is advised and enlarge the gut of the tooth but that's a new one to me. Cheers

 

You remove the corner of the tail. It helps make the chain smoother as well.

 

http://www.madsens1.com/PDF/RacingTechfacts_93099.pdf

[C.J]

You remove the corner of the tail. It helps make the chain smoother as well.

 

http://www.madsens1.com/PDF/RacingTechfacts_93099.pdf

 

Why start with LP chain and grind the bumps off the drivelinks ?

 

Wouldn't your start with LG or RS ?

[wyk]

Why start with LP chain and grind the bumps off the drivelinks ?

 

Wouldn't your start with LG or RS ?

 

You would buy it because it was one of the more affordable 3/8 chain available at the time. Since you would be grinding on it, you wouldn't bother starting with square chisel. RS is out, the teeth stand shorter than it does on Oregon chain. Oregon chain, with the taller teeth, have more chip clearance.

 

In any case, that was to show you the basics of how to make a chain faster. I would assume most would get the idea.

Edited December 21, 2014 by wyk

[Lumberwolf]

You would buy it because it was one of the more affordable 3/8 chain available at the time. Since you would be grinding on it, you wouldn't bother starting with square chisel. RS is out, the teeth stand shorter than it does on Oregon chain. Oregon chain, with the taller teeth, have more chip clearance.

 

Yeah I'm always 3/8 full chisel. Interesting

[wyk]

Here's the difference. This is standard 325 vs race 325:

 

Stock:

 

 

Race:

 

[div_h]

Here's the difference. This is standard 325 vs race 325:

 

Stock:

 

 

Race:

 

 

That's the 1 I want my chains like that