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Hit and Miss fencing


Timbur
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Anyone got any experiences of this style of fencing.

A client has asked me to do a 15m run.

High wind area, posts every 1.5m, 1.8m high and 150mm boards with a 100mm gap to increase privacy as its a shared boundary.

Looks simple enough but any experiences/advice welcome.

Cheers

Tim

 

-I usually do closeboard fencing but the customer already has hit and miss on one side and likes the idea of it on the other side now his panel monstrosity has fallen over

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I put some up at home 10+ years ago and it's still the only strong fence here! I used 4x4 posts and 7" gravel boards spaced at 6" but they are horizontal, not vertical.

Very effective in withstanding the wind; that's why many large stock sheds, with their huge surface areas, use the same principle.

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I put some up at home 10+ years ago and it's still the only strong fence here! I used 4x4 posts and 7" gravel boards spaced at 6" but they are horizontal, not vertical.

Very effective in withstanding the wind; that's why many large stock sheds, with their huge surface areas, use the same principle.

 

I think you will find that it's for ventilation on stock sheds that's why euro sheet bought out vent air sheeting.

I did a run of 160 m of hit and miss fencing at a property that bordered a huge field the wind was awful and they had panels before that would rattle apart as they were between concrete posts. Not had any problems with new fence and it looked really good.

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If the grounds not level as it never is I use a builders line pulled tight but held out and up with a packer as it saves it getting snagged then use another packer the same size on the board till it just touches the line then it gets nailed. Sorry if you know this already and I'm telling you how to suck eggs

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I think you will find that it's for ventilation on stock sheds that's why euro sheet bought out vent air sheeting

 

Undoubtedly; hit and miss kills two birds with one stone then. :thumbup1: For similar reasons Paraweb used to be the in thing; is that still popular I wonder?

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Done quite a bit in my time. Using rough sawn 4x1 tantalised timber. Do 1 side then other is easiest and quickest. Use 4x2 as cross rails and the thing won't budge. If you want to be excessive use coach bolts to secure to 4x4 uprights. If site is not excessively exposed you might get away with wet mix to end posts and dry mix to intermediates.

Annular nails prove worth while to secure boards or if you want to go that little more expensive use deck screws, less disturbance to uprights.

If you're using gravel board make sure it's tannalised

Once you have first board vertical and level place next board uptight alongside and use as spacer then put next board uptight and secure, remove spacers board.

You might find it quick to simply flip n roll spacer board along length marking top and bottom position of next board with pencil.

Edited by Gardenmac
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Annular nails prove worth while to secure boards or if you want to go that little more expensive use deck screws, less disturbance to uprights.

If you're using gravel board make sure it's tannalised

Once you have first board vertical and level place next board uptight alongside and use as spacer then put next board uptight and secure, remove spacers board.

You might find it quick to simply flip n roll spacer board along length marking top and bottom position of next board with pencil.check verticals with level as you go, you'll be surprised how quick it will go up.

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