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064 woes


raker
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Had it in the garage in pieces for about three years, so i decided it would be an evening project.New mains and seals,new rings, carb rebuild.

Its all together, but is a major workout trying to get it started.I`ve had a couple of afternoons on it, but wont do more than run for a few seconds then cut out.Chug along very slowly then cut out.Thats after i`ve stood on it and had two hands in leather gloves trying to pull it over.Sometimes it pulls over quite freely, others times it seems to have huge compression, and a fierce kickback, with the rope pulled out my hands.I`ve pulled the starting cord through the handle or snapped it several times so somethings not right.Its not sticking mechanically on anything as it will continue to turn albeit with a lot of effort.

I`m stumped.I couldnt imagine taking it on a job to use, as i`d be done in just starting it

 

Any suggestions? Cheers chaps.

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Sounds like the saw has issues with spark, fuel or compression.

 

064s do have quite a kick, down to having no retard on the ignition coil. Sounds like the saw needs a good going over to make sure the carb is operating correctly, the coil to flywheel gap is correct and the compression is OK., it may be the flywheel key but is difficult to get wrong.

 

The kick you are feeling is the ignition firing early on advance to TDC and is normal, what isn't normal is the saw not starting.

Edited by spudulike
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Cheers for the replies.I did wonder about timing.I`ve got two flywheels for it.The original which was scuffed from the very worn bearings putting the crank out.I bought a new one which has two keyways.

Offhand, i cant think which ones on it.I`ll have a look tomoz and try some variations.

Coil to wheel gap i normally set with a business card.Its always worked with other saws.Carbs not leaking, although it was allowing flooding untill i fitted a rebuild set.The mains i had fitted by my dealer as i couldnt get one of the bearing cups out and they did a good deal on it, so that should be fine.They did the rings at the same time for convenience.

I`ll see how it goes and post the results.

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If its a similar set up ignition wise to the 084..

 

The early ones the flywheel needs to use keyway "p" and later ones use keyway "b"

 

It depends on the coil.

"p" the coil p/n ends 1306

"b" the coil p/n ends 1308

 

You may find a p/n on the coil.

 

The reason for the later set up was just to gain a further 250rpm and also change timing to make them easier to pull and also prolong a spark momentarily longer.

Whether it is the same on the 064 I don't know but worth a look.

 

As spud says there maybe a fuel problem which is a possibility but also theoretically if the timings wrong the spark could be being put out by excess fuel and a down to timing.

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If you take the plug out, does it pull over easily?

 

If you then take the coil off too, does it pull over easily?

 

If you then put the plug back in, how much harder does it get?

 

If it doesn't spin freely with the plug and coil off then I suspect crankshaft alignment/bent, associated with when the crank seals were done.

 

Alec

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