advice for a noobie chainsaw user

[chrismechanic]

this morning i used the saw again, half a tank and what a difference .

 

the saw cuts straight as a die now, and much faster.

better than the first cut i did with the saw.

 

im sure the blunt chain was getting too hot and munching its was through the bar as i was trying to push down to cut. tbh i think the chain was poorly sharpened in the first place, i found the teeth on one side where all longer than the other, plus the depth stops where all too long as well.

 

after cutting the bar has no wear on it, it is still 90 as i left it.

 

i will keep this saw and buy a better bar and chain when it eventually wears out, as im now pleased with its performance for my needs.

even if i buy another bar and chain it would still be less than buying a quality brand saw..

 

a big thanks to all who helped out here, if i can help anyone with machining and/or one off projects just ask..

chris

[chrismechanic]

can always give a few pointers for beer tokens.

 

i did know that treequip but was trying not to get too into it as he is a novice. my next question was going to be if the bar was worn or bent.

 

to a very new user a saw is a scary thing with lots of dribble in the manual.

 

i do have to ask why you have a topper, or does the t at the end not mean that? not really familiar with the mc crappok range of numbers.

 

whats a topper

chris

[peatff]

I'm not a professional user just a back yard cutter probably like yourself but I have been using saws all my life and when they are working properly cutting firewood is effortless, the saw does all the work so if you find you are having to push on it and there is any dust instead of chips coming out of the cut just stop and give the chain a quick going over with the file. A topper is a top handle saw which yours is not it's a rear handle but some manufacturers put a T at the end to signify the saw type.

Edited November 4, 2013 by peatff

[Eddy_t]

a big thanks to all who helped out here, if i can help anyone with machining and/or one off projects just ask..

chris

 

Be careful what you offer there! You might end up receiving a 5' bar in the post to drill holes in!

 

 

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[chrismechanic]

Be careful what you offer there! You might end up receiving a 5' bar in the post to drill holes in!

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

 

it would not be a problem eddy.

drilling holes is easy, getting them in the correct place is the hard part

chris

[Stubby]

it would not be a problem eddy.

drilling holes is easy, getting them in the correct place is the hard part

chris

 

Chris . Do you have access to a spark erroder ?

[chrismechanic]

sadly not, here in my workshop i have a manual mill with dro.

also i have a freind who works in a CNC factory, so anything to complex for the hand mill goes there..

chris.

[Stubby]

sadly not, here in my workshop i have a manual mill with dro.

also i have a freind who works in a CNC factory, so anything to complex for the hand mill goes there..

chris.

 

Would the CNC mill use Heidenhain ( spelling ) on the controller , say a Bridgeport 4 ?

[Chris Sheppard]

 

a big thanks to all who helped out here, if i can help anyone with machining and/or one off projects just ask..

chris

 

'ere Chris, you don't happen to have any experience of machining 2 stroke motorbike heads do you? I've got one that eventully I want a bit skimming off the squish area - partly to lower compression but also to lose some damage too. Just need to find a grown up who knows more about how much/angle to take than I do

[chrismechanic]

they do have an old bridgeport mill there, what type of code it uses i am not sure, i would have to ask my freind.

 

tbh that old bridgeport is only any good for non precision work as the bearings are hanging out of the quill, the bearings eventually eat through their mounts and cost a packet to repair.

 

the rest of the machines there are multi axis very expensive machines.

 

do you need a part made or something?

chris