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MG Rover Electrical Issue?


PeteB
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The diesel is a BMW engine and rather good, mine has done over 230k now with only minor issues.

 

The first and most important thing to check is the "plenum chamber"

On the drivers side, take the little grill off near the windscreen that hides the brake fluid reservoir.

Look down the void towards where you'd expect the exhaust to run and watch for any signs of water.

 

The chamber holds the main ECU and it's drain-holes are known to get blocked with leaves etc causing a drowned ECU=dead car.

 

If there's any moisture, you need to clear the drain holes. (Googling or looking on the dedicated 75 forums will give you a step-by-step)

 

You cannot change the light switch easily as it's part of the cars security system and matched to the keys, main ECU, BCU, and immobiliser...

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Thanks for the offer of the book, this is the oil burner, is that covered in the book too?

 

thanks for the supportive words Ian, it is a gentleman's express and not a coffin dodgers hearse!

 

It's haynes 4292 and it says it covers the ci engine as well, best be careful about using oil burner term it seems to be misunderstood,.

 

It was a fast, effortless limo and I'm gutted the engine became uneconomic at below 100k, what was it about these later Rover si engines that became so problemsome?

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You cannot change the light switch easily as it's part of the cars security system and matched to the keys, main ECU, BCU, and immobiliser...

 

What a bother! when I had similar issues with the contacts shorting on the dip switch on an old escort I simply wired a switch on the dash for the lights as the indicator-light switch cluster was so expensive.

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Oil burner = diesel.

 

goes well and doesn't appear to use oil, mistreated from new with hardly a unbruised panel and now using aftermarket wheels as too many of the original ones burst from being curbed or potholes!

 

This issue with the lights is almost like they are supposed to do it! Bizarre!

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