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262xp help please


sweepy
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Which wire? The HT wire or the kill wire? The HT wire should screw in I believe! If the coil can spark across 5-8mm, it should be OK!

 

The HT wire is out of the coil, i'll try screwing it in.

How would I check the coil can spark across 5-8mm (imagine you are talking to a complete idiot:001_smile:)

 

while I am here can anyone hazard a guess as to the age of the saw- serial no 0450697, black tag, Im guessing 1990

 

Also Stubby- tell me more

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The HT wire is out of the coil, i'll try screwing it in.

How would I check the coil can spark across 5-8mm (imagine you are talking to a complete idiot:001_smile:)

 

while I am here can anyone hazard a guess as to the age of the saw- serial no 0450697, black tag, Im guessing 1990

 

Also Stubby- tell me more

 

Take a normal spark plug, open up the gap with a small screwdriver so it is 5-8mm or 45 degrees to the original position. Plug it in to the cap and earth it on the cylinder away from the plug hole and give the handle a good yank and watch for a decent spark. If it does this, there is probably nothing too much wrong with it!

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  • 1 month later...

More questions:001_smile:

 

Saw reassembled and the spark looks good to my untrained eye, although it was a bit intermittent till I took the kill lead off.

No sign of it even thinking of starting tho, so took the plug out and it wasnt wet- pulled off the fuel line and no fuel evident- does the carb suck the fuel or is there some kind of pump ive not seen?

 

I suppose a new set of gaskets and diaphrams in the carb is the next step?

Then a new ignition module but the only ones ive found are about sixty quid so i'm unwilling to just get one on spec, where could I get a pattern part- or the ungoverned one mentioned earlier?

 

Sorry this is a bit rambling and thanks for the help

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As with all saws this is an all position carb, the carb has wo sides a metering side and a pump side, the carb is fed a pulse from the action of the piston riseing and falling, this is fed via a hole in the inlet side of the cylinder through the gasket and induction block to the carb, a diaphram in the carb pulses and pulls fuel from the tank, new diaphrams would be in order and make sure the gaskets either side of the induction block are alighed correctly

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It sounds like the pump diaphragm isn't doing too much. It is worth making sure the fuel filter isn't blocked, it is unlikely if it has one of those typical Husqvarna white ones. Check the fuel line isn't holed or gone soft and gloopy as the diaphragm may be OK but may be pulling air rather than fuel.

 

It may be worth taking the carb apart to see if there is any fuel in the pumping or metering section - if the fuel pipe is dry it is logical to think the carb will be dry.

 

If the gaskets between the inlet manifold and cylinder or carb are missing, it will probably stop the impulses from the crankcase transmitting to the carb and pumping fuel!

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  • 1 month later...

New service kit in the carb and it runs:001_smile:

 

It took me a couple of goes, the diaphragm looked like it fitted the other way round, the problem now is it starts, then races right up to full power and stays there. I started with about 1.5 turns out on the h and L screws and about 2 on the tickover one,

 

anybody kind enough to run me through setting the carb, and anything I might have done wrong?

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