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Carving with ms150


Mitch
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Rob will it pull a 0.50 chain ok and cut ok

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

 

 

It should be fine - mostly you'll just be using the tip of the bar or a few inches so the slight increase in drag should not be noticed.

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Tsumura has come out with a special bar for the Stihl 150's in the .43 gauge.

 

Probably will only be available in US when it comes out.

 

Maybe an idea for you RobD, see if it's worthwhile Sugi hara making some. Apparently Cannon won't be doing any , any time soon.

Here's a link from carvers network,

Carving Post Forum: Re: MS150 Carving Bar

Cheers,

Si

 

 

I think it would be a lot of tooling up involved in order to make a new bar with .043 guage...

 

 

I had already asked them and they said not in the near future but I expect they will do at some stage when they see how popular the MS150T is.

 

 

:001_smile:

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Been using the MS150 Rear with standard 10" bar and chain. I like the fact I don't need to run the chain slack as it has a sprocket at the end.

 

Was using my Husky 240 with oregon quarter tip carving bar and 3/8" lo pro VX chain(which has a smaller top plate) ground the heels as well.

 

For me personally I now favour the MS150. Just lighter, more agile and more enjoyable.

 

I'll get some pics of my handywork tomorrow once I coat them in Decking oil.

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With an 8" bar fitted it's a wicked detailing saw. The reach is a bit of a pisser, I guess it depends on the size of the job. A 10 inch bar could be a good compromise for this saw.

 

It's a gutless but light saw. The shorter the bar the higher the cutting speed and hence better the finish. :sneaky2:

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Saws can be rated in RPM or ft/second, meters/sec, cutters/minute all based on the motor speed/sprocket size. How does a shorter bar increase chain speed?

 

Chainsaw "racers" use oversized rims to get more chain speed.

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  • 3 months later...

Just bumping this thread as need some advice.

 

 

I have a customer that has an MS150 and MS201 both back handled for carving.

 

 

He is saying that the sugi carving bars don't fit because the heel of the bars do not have the slot cut out like the Stihl bars do.

 

 

Can anyone furnish some pics as to show why this is?

 

 

I want to get some dedicated Sugi bars for the MS150 (they will be 10", .043 guage) and need to get it right. But want to understand why they have to have this slot at the heel of the bar.

 

 

 

Finally - how have those using the sprocket nose bar that comes with the saw found the sprocket nose has lasted? I would have thought carving with a sprocket nose bar would cause the sprocket to fail pretty quickly so would be interested to see how it has stood up....

 

 

 

 

:001_smile:

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