Pull-cord kickback when starting a STIHL MS 660

[spudulike]

Re - the decomp, it is probably worth popping in a new one as it may be coming out too soon and causing the compression of the engine to kick - worth trying as well.

 

You will need a long reach socket to do so - I forget the size:blushing:

[morten]

Re - the decomp, it is probably worth popping in a new one as it may be coming out too soon and causing the compression of the engine to kick - worth trying as well.

 

You will need a long reach socket to do so - I forget the size:blushing:

 

I am still experiencing having the pull cord handle ripped out of my hands with the same old 660. It happens consistently when milling, restarting the saw while hot (within 5 minutes of having milled).

 

It kicks back like a motherf..... – really hurts.

 

Even when pressing in the decompression valve (which pops back out when it kicks back). The best way to start it is to gently pull the cord, without pressing the decomp valve, until you feel compression, and then give the pull cord a short sharp pull with BOTH hands, while the saw is on the ground held down with my knee (saw mounted on the Alaskan mill). But even with this technique, it still pulls the handle out of my hand every other time. I really don't like this situation. Time for a new saw, maybe (STIHL 880, Husky 3120)?

 

Any new advice fixing this problem once and for all, beyond the advice already mentioned by Garden Kit, adjusting the ignition gap?

[spudulike]

I am still experiencing having the pull cord handle ripped out of my hands with the same old 660. It happens consistently when milling, restarting the saw while hot (within 5 minutes of having milled).

 

It kicks back like a motherf..... – really hurts.

 

Even when pressing in the decompression valve (which pops back out when it kicks back). The best way to start it is to gently pull the cord, without pressing the decomp valve, until you feel compression, and then give the pull cord a short sharp pull with BOTH hands, while the saw is on the ground held down with my knee (saw mounted on the Alaskan mill). But even with this technique, it still pulls the handle out of my hand every other time. I really don't like this situation. Time for a new saw, maybe (STIHL 880, Husky 3120)?

 

Any new advice fixing this problem once and for all, beyond the advice already mentioned by Garden Kit, adjusting the ignition gap?

 

Try a slightly larger gap, I would say 0.4 - 0.5mm, make sure it sparks and see if it helps. It did on one I had a similar issue with!

[Joe Newton]

One of our lads had a similar problem starting my 660 that Spud ported.

 

I was ready to call him up and demand a full refund.

 

Turns out the lad was just pulling it over like a big sissy bitch.

[spudulike]

One of our lads had a similar problem starting my 660 that Spud ported.

 

I was ready to call him up and demand a full refund.

 

Turns out the lad was just pulling it over like a big sissy bitch.

 

Yes, MS660s shouldn't be pulled over with a limp wrist, they need conviction and a bit of determination. Grit your teeth, pull like it is life or death and it will go!

 

Refund.....Pah, you can't even raise the compression on this saw as the squish is already low......bloody wimp.....have you made sure he actually is a lad:sneaky2:

[Joe Newton]

Yes, MS660s shouldn't be pulled over with a limp wrist, they need conviction and a bit of determination. Grit your teeth, pull like it is life or death and it will go!

 

 

 

Refund.....Pah, you can't even raise the compression on this saw as the squish is already low......bloody wimp.....have you made sure he actually is a lad:sneaky2:

 

 

I have.

 

The lawsuit that resulted was financially crippling.

[spudulike]

I have.

 

The lawsuit that resulted was financially crippling.

 

I hope he winced:sneaky2:

[morten]

Turns out the lad was just pulling it over like a big sissy bitch.

 

Yes, MS660s shouldn't be pulled over with a limp wrist

 

You guys calling me a limp wristed, sissy bitch now?

 

I'll try increasing the ignition gap. It's just irritating, that it takes 5 minutes at WOT (milling) to figure out if it fixes the issue

Edited October 15, 2016 by morten

[spudulike]

You guys calling me a limp wristed, sissy bitch now?

 

I'll try increasing the ignition gap. It's just irritating, that it takes 5 minutes at WOT (milling) to figure out if it fixes the issue

 

Nah, we have you as a 6'4" 25 stone guy dressed in cow hides and a helmet with horns on it and a penchant for boats which are long and have lots of oars:lol:

 

Good luck with the timing as it is the most likely fix. If it is a real issue, you could take the flywheel off and retard the ignition with a customised flywheel key!

 

It is possible that the decomp valve is a bit weak and pops out too soon before the engine has truly fired but think these issues have been mentioned before.

[Mesterh]

One of our lads had a similar problem starting my 660 that Spud ported.

 

I was ready to call him up and demand a full refund.

 

Turns out the lad was just pulling it over like a big sissy bitch.

 

this is true of so many people.