SRT base anchors and rescue anchors

[Old Mill Tree Care]

Base anchors for pretty much everything but removals for me. Did a removal today on a base anchor through a tree nearby. I can't see an issue with it, you shouldn't be cutting near any rope, loaded or not. If you can't trust whoever is on the ground not to cut near your anchor, I'd suggest the issue is not with the anchor type. Don't drop things near enough to it to need cutting close by

 

 

Thanks Dan. Don't you prefer a top tie so that you can have a higher TIP?

[Dan Curtis]

Thanks Dan. Don't you prefer a top tie so that you can have a higher TIP?

 

Not really, I'm comfortable on a high ish base anchor and I don't ever really need to anchor where I would've done ddrt. Redirects get me out level with an anchor if that's where I need to be. If I'm climbing above it'll not be far and I static redirect above. On the whole though it's rare that I can't get a high enough anchor to work the whole tree from the ground.

 

That last post wasn't meant as a pop at you, just my thoughts

[Old Mill Tree Care]

Not really, I'm comfortable on a high ish base anchor and I don't ever really need to anchor where I would've done ddrt. Redirects get me out level with an anchor if that's where I need to be. If I'm climbing above it'll not be far and I static redirect above. On the whole though it's rare that I can't get a high enough anchor to work the whole tree from the ground.

 

That last post wasn't meant as a pop at you, just my thoughts

 

I didn't take it that way:001_smile:

 

What type and length of rope are you on these days?

Are you still on the Unicender?

Thanks.

[Dan Curtis]

I didn't take it that way:001_smile:

 

What type and length of rope are you on these days?

Are you still on the Unicender?

Thanks.

 

50m of cougar blue with a ring spliced in one end mostly. I have a 60m hank of tachyon too. I'm back on a plain uni most of the time, I don't like the one I've got with a drum. Still use the rw with a hitch or lj some days, depends what I'm doing. I have had 5 months off climbing over the summer so it's good to be getting back to it.

[DrewB]

one of the main issues for me with base anchors is not cutting the rope whilst cutting but moving past the rope with a saw on your harness. also the ability to stand above your anchor and therefore not be tied into anything. I use base anchors all the time when the situation suits, tip ties when the situation suits. BUT if i could only use one, it would be tip tie.

[Old Mill Tree Care]

50m of cougar blue with a ring spliced in one end mostly. I have a 60m hank of tachyon too. I'm back on a plain uni most of the time, I don't like the one I've got with a drum. Still use the rw with a hitch or lj some days, depends what I'm doing. I have had 5 months off climbing over the summer so it's good to be getting back to it.

 

 

Presumably it's a large ring but what's the ring for?

I mean, why not just have a spliced eye?

I'm guessing it's for the base anchor but I always set my base or top tie anchor so that my tail is the correct length. Just to save hauling a long tail through the tree.

Edited October 29, 2014 by Old Mill Tree Care

[Dan Curtis]

Presumably it's a large ring but what's the ring for?

I mean, why not just have a spliced eye?

I'm guessing it's for the base anchor but I always set my base or top tie anchor so that my tail is the correct length. Just to save hauling a long tail through the tree.

 

It's useful for a variety of things, I did put some pictures in another thread a while back I think.

 

I like it for a locked base anchor that can be made lowerable with other devices. It's great for having a choked top anchor when going up or down on spikes, just needs a bight pushed through and a krab to hold it. It'll also do a retrievable top anchor due to the reduced friction. You can tie multiple lines to the ring for various reasons. It can be tied to rope without relying on hitches etc in a lowerable system. It also acts as a good stopper knot that doesn't get caught as easily as a knot would. It's really handy for slinging round a stem when spiking up, perfect weight to get a return and not so heavy it knocks you out if you overdo it! If you're feeling really fancy you can set it as a base anchored cambium saver for a ddrt system, just need a prussik and pulley. For me it's a multifunctional thing, everything it does could be done another way but it's always there, usually requires no extra gear bar a krab and it's very versatile.

 

Having a big ring permenantly attached to one end of the rope does need consideration when setting and retrieving ropes though.

 

A splice wouldn't work for most applications as the rope on rope friction would stop it functioning, and potentially wear the rope unfavourably. And I don't really have a need for regular spliced ropes anymore.

 

I too set my lines so I have just enough tail, no point hauling more than you need to. Depending on the tree height this can be done with the ring, then the spare rope used as a knotless/joinless lowerable rescue line.

[Fredward]

I was lucky enough to attend an SRT talk with Drew and Rich Hattier, they talked about knots for a base anchor and Rich suggested this knot, its a cow hitch with a running bowline, I just wanted to check I have it right and see if anyone else has used it, seems to stay tightened to the trunk better than a straight running bowline.

 

 

Is this the correct way to tie it Drew? Alpine butterfly above, and splice with biner as a back-up.

[DrewB]

yeah bro, the double choked bowline whatcha ma call it!!! its a really cool knot, chokes and locks in both directions.

[Old Mill Tree Care]

That's a really good anchor. I like how it choke in both directions. Defo survive the flop test.