Advice on 051 problems

[GardenKit]

Just going by the 051/076 Service document and cross checked against the engine and tach info generic service PDFs I have. I know these can be a bit out on some saws though not sure why your machines are different from these docs:confused1:

 

I have recently had an 026 only run right on 1/2 turn on the L screw so do whatever works - the important thing is to ensure the saw doesn't run lean at max revs and doesnt puddle fuel on idle then stall or smoke like buggary when you yank open the throttle - these old carbs need a bit of a magic touch:lol:

Just checked all the Stihl documentation. It all says 1 turn on the L and 1/4 on the the H with top revs at 10000.

 

Strange, as I have always found the Stihl figures to be spot on up to now.

 

This has been one of the most informative and accurate threads for a long while. Informative posts from well informed people.

[wisecobandit]

Just checked all the Stihl documentation. It all says 1 turn on the L and 1/4 on the the H with top revs at 10000.

 

Strange, as I have always found the Stihl figures to be spot on up to now.

 

This has been one of the most informative and accurate threads for a long while. Informative posts from well informed people.

 

Not sure if this pic will work but this is the original stickers that where on the 051 and 075 saws that where supplied in the u.k.

(just grabbed this one to take a quick pic)

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I can only assume these saws where originally made and made there mark in brazil, which was where all the documentation was written based on earlier model saws so more rewritten rather than starting from scratch.

Maybe due to the climate and humidity the settings would need to be much richer out there compared to the uk?

You have to also bear in mind that these saws where sold in brazil right up to 2006 or so and also the ts510 cut off saw where also based on these saws so manuals could have been cross referenced.

[spudulike]

Ok. So a bit stuck. Need a 048 carb boot. Anyone got there IPL handy. The part is obsolete. What others would fit?

 

042 or 048 Rich - part 1117 141 2200 looks a little rare:thumbdown:

[Rich2484]

042 or 048 Rich - part 1117 141 2200 looks a little rare:thumbdown:

 

Yeah tell me about it. I was kind iof hoping here would be one more available that would fit from something else.

 

Anyway I did notice I put this in the wrong thread meant to put it I the bench t hread:blushing:.

[muttley9050]

OK, more help needed please if any one has time.

Stripped one saw carb kit, plug, filters etc. Won't run. Will fire but won't run.

Left it a week as no time to finish. Went back to it today and won't pull over.

Plug out and chamber is full of fuel. Spraying out the muffler and all sorts.

I assume I fitted carb kit badly/problem with needle valve, but all looks OK. There's loads of compression.

What have I done wrong and what should I do to rectify.?

Thanks a lot in advance.

James

 

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[Eddy_t]

Still sold in Peru, wiseco

 

 

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[wisecobandit]

I could only imagine as you say its a needle valve issue. May pay to do a pop off test to check the needle valve is seating fully and not opening until 7+ psi pressure.

The fuel tank caps also contain the breather containing a little ball bearing so make sure that's operating as they do seize up. If its been left for a week and pressure has built up I guess it could force open the needle valve etc and as these carbs sit above the cylinder gravity helps the situation on any slight leakeage.

I did replace one carb once which was problematic but as a rule they are pretty good when it comes to cleaning and respond well.

How did you clean the carb? Spray or ultra sonic?

 

It hasn't had the governor blocked off has it as some react badly to that and can pour fuel in. The big brass srew on the side of the carb (straight bladed screwdriver) that's normally got red threadlock signs. unscrew it and make sure theres no small disc of anysort under the screw.

I may have an old carb but may need a clean etc if it becomes a bugbear to you.

 

You have an ipl to check gaskets are correct I take it?

Edited March 21, 2014 by wisecobandit

[muttley9050]

Thanks wiseco,

I cleaned carb with spray, but think I did a good job. Filler cap is new as old one was iffy.

No idea what an Ipl is.

Think I will strip down and start again.

Thanks

James

 

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[muttley9050]

Thanks wiseco,

I cleaned carb with spray, but think I did a good job. Filler cap is new as old one was iffy.

No idea what an Ipl is.

Think I will strip down and start again.

Thanks

James

 

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Edit, struggling to remove brass screw. Must try harder I think.

 

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[wisecobandit]

The brass screw is always loctited in well from new. Chances are if irs that tight it hasn't been tampered with.

The ipl is the parts list which shows you the break down of the saw and part numbers.

 

If you send me your email addy I will send you both the ipl and workshop manual for it to make your life a bit easier.