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Chesnut Fencing stakes


Tommywommy
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These look good, can anyone tell me why they are cheaper than the rubbish softwood ones we currently use, three years in a damp spot and rotted off. anyone closer to me ( bedfordshire ) producing these at a similar price ?

 

Local is best after all.

 

chestnut fence posts 6ft x 100 posts free local delivery | eBay

 

Tommywommy:001_tt2:

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They're cheaper because they come from honest grafters producing it from local coppice then selling direct. No middlemen, it's that simple. I bet the original producer of softwood posts gets less per post than the equivalent producer of a chestnut post.

 

They don't need tanalising as they contain plenty of it naturally. And it's distributed throughout the entire timber, not just around the outside as it so often the case with tanalised stuff. Bugger all sapwood so no need to peel (less cost again)

 

Also, as it's natural then there are no end of life disposal regulations if you are working for an organisation that does everything by the book.

 

It's win win. The only question you need to ask is is it winter or summer cut. Only winter cut timber should be used for posts due to lasting much longer.

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Thanks Doobin, is there any way of telling when it was cut apart from the vendors word ?

I am a farm manager and cannot understand the rubbish/ foreign products we are sold/ choose to use, this is british, superior to softwood and if purchased directly from the woodman there would be a level of trust regarding when the timber is cut.

At what point in history did all our industries become so distant, there are thousands of acres of woodland that if managed correctly could provide excellent materials for agriculture/ building industry.

 

We found some fencing in the brambles as part of our hls hedge work, the wire was completely corroded however the four inch square chesnut posts are in bloody good order. asked the wifes grandad and he does not think he fenced it and he's been farming here for sixty years plus !

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Thanks Doobin, is there any way of telling when it was cut apart from the vendors word ?

I am a farm manager and cannot understand the rubbish/ foreign products we are sold/ choose to use, this is british, superior to softwood and if purchased directly from the woodman there would be a level of trust regarding when the timber is cut.

At what point in history did all our industries become so distant, there are thousands of acres of woodland that if managed correctly could provide excellent materials for agriculture/ building industry.

 

We found some fencing in the brambles as part of our hls hedge work, the wire was completely corroded however the four inch square chesnut posts are in bloody good order. asked the wifes grandad and he does not think he fenced it and he's been farming here for sixty years plus !

 

I'd be very surprised to see a four inch post of any timber last that long, unless in a very hot dry climate.

 

If they are sawn square then they are most likely oak. If you saw wood then you sever the cross grain, allowing an entry point for rot. Chestnut is usually split to avoid this. Couple that with the high levels of tannins and you have durability.

 

It's still the best around in terms of value for money however.

 

Re the peeling- I'm not sure on this one. I know of those who swear by it, and those who say it makes no difference. Chestnut has very little sapwood anyhow.

 

It does seem to me that half round posts last longer than full round- and you never see the rot starting on this cleft side. However, I'm doubtful as to whether peeling would alleviate this, it's not the same as splitting them.

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been making chestnut fencing products for over 20 years now and was taught by guys who had been in it all there life . And been putting up fences for 18 years now winter cut chestnut will out last summer cut by a long way.

but even summer cut will outlast most of the softwood thats avalable now have found the main reason for peeled posts out lasting unpeeled is not due to the sapwood as pointed out chestnut has very little sapwood . BUT when the barks left on it tends to hold the moisture against the post and as it starts to flake off gives somewhere for the bug to live. allot of sweet chestnut coppice around kent and sussex use to be for the hop poles but not so many hop gardens around now and not so much coppicing either can be a very hard way to try earn a living shame you cant treat the chestnut posts like they use to do the hop poles they lasted ages but doubt you would be allowed to know or if it would be cost effective

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If you saw wood then you sever the cross grain, allowing an entry point for rot. Chestnut is usually split to avoid this. Couple that with the high levels of tannins and you have durability.

Did my CS32 in a local woodland on chestnut coppice. That's large trees off larger stools! We've left some long straight lengths but the guy who owns the wood has got in touch and asked if I'd like to help bandsaw it up for posts/rails. Gonna do it, learn a new skill, but it sounds like they'd be better split Doobin. You talking about the ray cells when you say cross grain? What effect does that have, other than an entry point for detritivores?

 

So splitting with a froe? Would a splitting axe do a decent job also?

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