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Posted (edited)

We have done this a few times recently. The thread is standard. The bearing and housing comes of with a 3 leg puller. My workmate got the rear shaft out with a stilson and scaffold bar but he had to heat it up with gas first. If you can get the slot in the fly wheel over something solid.

 

My boss got the replacement bearings for half the price of the timberwolf dealers from Vaughn agri in Standerwick (Frome).

 

We ended up taking it to Lister weilders to get the bearing set perfectly as we didnt have any shims.

 

Apparently when you spin the fly wheel and it stops it should go back a quarter turn if its all set right. We spent some time hitting the bearing housings with a nail bar and a sledge to try and get it all setled but without the shims it just wouldn't sit perfectly.

 

Good luck.

Edited by Will Hinchliffe
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Posted
He's got a point Steve. Main bearing replacement recomended at 1000hrs, thats about 6 weeks if run constantly!

 

Got to agree.

 

Its a good machine let down by these poor bearings:thumbdown: they have been like this for years and they don't seem to want to address the problem.

Posted

The 190 has much bigger bearings. So you could say that the problem has been addressed. As a comparison, all the american, swedish, and german built chippers usually have lifetime or 10,000 hour bearings.

Posted

You would think TW would have got it right with the 190 but sadly it's not the case, the bearings still fail at surprisingly low hours !

 

Please everybody do not heat the shaft up it's not a good idea, we have been removing these shafts for many years and only ever had to heat one, we then replaced the shaft as a matter of course, shafts that have localised heating can cause all sorts of stress built up within the shaft, it then has withstand some major loads while working.....would you risk it ?

Posted

Just another quick point about bearings, if the rotor is set up correctly you should never need to hit the bearing carrier to get the rotor to spin, all you end up doing is inducing side loading on the race which 50hrs later will fail, do it right first time, and remember set this all up correctly and you should get a much longer life out of the bearings

Posted

Oh and another quick point if you bearings fail on your 190 please please please do not carry on running it to finish the job, as the bearings have a habit of spinning in the rotor we then have to machine the rotor oversize and press in a sleeve then machine back to bearing size, and this takes time and money non of use can afford at the moment.

Posted

I am surprised that someone hasnt came up with a 'retro fit kit' that use stronger self aligning bearings to prevent some of these problems!

 

There has to be enough TW's out there to more than make it pay:001_smile:

 

Although I havent looked at the setup on the TW's, maybe it isnt viable to do it.

 

I know of one guy who recommends changing the bearings when they buy a new set of blades because they are that bad.

Posted
I am surprised that someone hasnt came up with a 'retro fit kit' that use stronger self aligning bearings to prevent some of these problems!

 

There has to be enough TW's out there to more than make it pay:001_smile:

 

Although I havent looked at the setup on the TW's, maybe it isnt viable to do it.

 

I know of one guy who recommends changing the bearings when they buy a new set of blades because they are that bad.

 

If anyone wants to drop a TW150 into our workshop, We'll do it.

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