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Bore Cutting the Hinge


Albedo
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Bore cutting i do when i don't think i'll reach with the guide bar. Also on anything high value.

 

I'm sure it's a minimum of 150mm of hing left on each side but a bit thicker to compensate for the removed middle. Did it on both my CS32 and 33.

 

As for crushing saws i once got a Larch wrong and it didn't want to go where i wanted it. It pinched the saw as it came round i moved the saw stayed and 28" of larch landed on the saw. Poor 064. Still ran as it was crushed into the ground. Infact once i cut it free it still ran. all it needed was a new guide bar and a front handle and it still works to this day/

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I use it a lot felling poles, that way you get a better hold for felling without losing directional control by cutting the hinge thin to get the stem over

 

This is what I mean...unless you mean Polish people:001_smile:

 

 

An unusual demise of a saw has turned up as well....I guess some caution required if doing the bore cut after the event.. or maybe a complete no no.

 

Thanks for the replies regarding official CS course reasons... good bit of revision.

 

You never know what's gonna turn up in an arbtalk thread aye:001_smile:

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Not long ago done my cs32 which now includes this. The main reason was to remove material that the bar won't reach using a regular medium tree cut. Other benefits were removing tension if high value timber and preventing splitting, checking for rot aswell. If there is rot then the hinge should be thicker and leave buttresses at the rear of the tree. Dimensions were, I think. Leave a min of 15 cm either side and 20% hinge thickness. Also a nick either side of the hinge to prevent tearing

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Bore cutting i do when i don't think i'll reach with the guide bar. Also on anything high value.

 

I'm sure it's a minimum of 150mm of hing left on each side but a bit thicker to compensate for the removed middle. Did it on both my CS32 and 33.

 

As for crushing saws i once got a Larch wrong and it didn't want to go where i wanted it. It pinched the saw as it came round i moved the saw stayed and 28" of larch landed on the saw. Poor 064. Still ran as it was crushed into the ground. Infact once i cut it free it still ran. all it needed was a new guide bar and a front handle and it still works to this day/

 

An old guy I worked with used to say to leave a fag packet's worth of hinge either side of the bore cut, so maybe not far off the 150mm.

 

First time I took my 372 out after dropping a new pot and piston on it (several years ago now) I had a very similar situation with a biggish Scot - bar and front handle but also creased the exhaust. Still has the same exhaust now as a reminder.

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Just a word of warning to the less experienced.

 

I’ve said on here before that kickback is not some mystery accident that happens without warning. It is 100% avoidable if you understand how it comes about.

 

I don’t want inexperienced users going out and bore cutting hinges as a result of this thread. You need to understand kickback and how to avoid it to safely do bore cuts. You also need to understand why you are doing the bore cut in the felling scenario that you are in.

 

If you haven’t done a bore cut before, get someone who has, to show you how to do it safely, before trying it yourself. That’s how I learned although these days you probably have to pay someone 300 quid:001_smile:. The internet is not the place to learn these skills.

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