Species worth milling

[Stereo]

We have a wood which we are going to bring back into management and there is a lot of big wood in there. It is mainly ash, oak, beech, over stood hazel coppice, sycamore and some sweet chestnut.

 

Im looking to take a lot of firewood out but. Also save some of the best wood for building material. I have an idea to build a hut or shed in the wood. From its own trees.

 

Which ones should I look to be milling? Obviously oak but there is not a massive amount and I want to leave any veteran oaks where they are.

[tommer9]

All of them basically, other than the hazel obviously. Sweet chestnut was, according to Ben Law, recognized finally as a timber that can be used structurally, as long as it doent have a corkscrew to it, which leads to a short weak grain. Oak and chestnut dont rot, ash does but is incredibly strong, and beech does very fast, so is only good for indoor use and not a structural timber- use it for flooring, window ledges etc etc. Oak will go for everything. Happy milling and building.

[gensetsteve]

We have a wood which we are going to bring back into management and there is a lot of big wood in there. It is mainly ash, oak, beech, over stood hazel coppice, sycamore and some sweet chestnut.

 

Im looking to take a lot of firewood out but. Also save some of the best wood for building material. I have an idea to build a hut or shed in the wood. From its own trees.

 

Which ones should I look to be milling? Obviously oak but there is not a massive amount and I want to leave any veteran oaks where they are.

 

No expert but oak good. Hazel will probably be good in the weather as I think its used for spars on thatch roofs ? but maybe small. Beech, syc not good outside.

[Big J]

Ensure that sycamore felled for milling is felled during winter and is milled fairly shortly thereafter. Beech is also better felled and milled in winter.

 

Other than that - what they said! ^^

[mdotdave]

Hi , I apologise if this is a stupid question but why do you suggest that the sycamore is felled in winter? Is this the same for all timbers ?

Thanks for your time

[Big J]

All timbers are best felled when the sap has fallen. White woods are prone to sap staining if sap is present in the timber, and sycamore is the most prone to this. Traditionally sycamore is winter felled, winter milled and then end reared (dried vertically) to encourage as little sap staining as possible. Drying straight from green in the kiln is also effective at preventing the sap stain. Some furniture makers don't mind a bit of tainted sycamore but traditionalists are a fussy bunch.

[morten]

All timbers are best felled when the sap has fallen. White woods are prone to sap staining if sap is present in the timber, and sycamore is the most prone to this. Traditionally sycamore is winter felled, winter milled and then end reared (dried vertically) to encourage as little sap staining as possible. Drying straight from green in the kiln is also effective at preventing the sap stain. Some furniture makers don't mind a bit of tainted sycamore but traditionalists are a fussy bunch.

 

Staining is caused by fungus that grows faster in a moist environment, and additionally is also nourished by the sap.

Edited October 22, 2012 by morten
spelling/grammar

[mdotdave]

Ok thanks for the prompt reply. I have always loved waney timber and fascinated by the big chunky natural furniture that can be created from recently felled trees. I have been practising with blurred oak and elm having travelled to the guys at alaskanmill to purchase my timber , I live 150 miles away! I am now very seriously thinking of buying a mill and chainsaw to create my own. I feel that I'm lucky in that a local logging business has tonnes of lengths of tree that I could chose from. Have you any advice? Thanks

[agg221]

Not quite the original question, but I suggest thinking about what type of building you want to construct and keeping an eye out for suitable trees as you wander around the wood.

 

If you build a plain box section then of course all you want is straight bits of appropriate length, and you can pretty much do this with uniform section timber. However, if you want something a bit more individual of the classic timber-framed type then curved sections are useful, as braces and as the cross-brace in trusses. These take a bit more finding, so it's worth keeping an eye out.

 

Your original post suggests a fairly modest-sized construction, which would suggest you won't need many trees to do it. If so, I would use the oak for structural timbers where possible due to its combination of strength and durability. If you are in a position where building control aren't interested then a very traditional construction method of a low (6-8") masonry wall using lime mortar, over minimal foundations, followed by a proper frame could work well with minimal impact.

 

You don't necessarily need huge sections for framing - boxed heart is stronger and you just need a section big enough to square up appropriately.

 

Although timber framing is traditionally done green as it makes working easier and saves waiting, there's nothing to stop you collecting up any oak or chestnut that comes out as you go along - it's durable enough and can either be stored milled or in the round.

 

Have you considered using the chestnut to make shingles for the roof or for cladding?

 

You might find the book below interesting for inspiration - it has lots of pictures!

 

Regional variation in timber-framed building in England and Wales down to 1550

The proceedings of the 1994 Cressing Conference

2nd ed. with revisions.

edited by D.F. Stenning and D.D. Andrews.

Published 2002

 

(I borrowed it from the library but will eventually buy a copy):

 

Alec

[tommer9]

Nice post Agg221.