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Old vintage pto saws


njc110381
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Hey guys. I think I may heve been around this subject at some point but cannot find the post or the advice given in it so perhaps I didn't post here?

 

I've just bought the compact tractor that I've always wanted - a little Kubota with a mid mount deck. It's got a 3 point and pto so now I'm looking to get a table saw to fit it. I've moved out of the commercial timber work and the tractor was bought to mow rather than run tools. But at home I still get through a lot of wood and process it all myself. I can't spend too much so I'm looking at one of the old vintage saws.

 

I know that for work their lack of guards etc would render them unusable but for home use it's down to me right? What I don't know is just how dangerous these tools are? The way I'm seeing it they shouldn't be any more dangerous than leaning over a chainsaw which lets face it can take you apart in fractions of a second if you mess up? These things were used for years and yes there were accidents, but no more than with chainsaws. Are they really as bad as some people make them out to be?

 

On your advice I'm thinking of fabricating some basic guards myself if need be. I've got access to plenty of modern machines so finding a pattern/design for this sort of thing should be easy enough. I guess what I'm asking is whether all the "oh my god you can't do that" opinions that I have come across from perhaps half the people I've asked are based on current H&S guidelines or practical experience? :confused1:

 

Edit... I guess I'm looking to the older folk on here who would have used these things back when they were seen as great tools not deathtraps! If they were that bad there wouldn't be a retired farmer to be found anywhere yet there are plenty that still have all their digits!

Edited by njc110381
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1st thing to worry about on an old Kubota is the direction of the PTO. Some early models defied conventional thinking and went the "wrong" way so I would check this before spending on any pto driven tools.

 

For all the media tut tuting I guess all the H&S has evolved by some poor sole finding out the hard way and trying to prevent repetition so if any new safety devices could be retro fitted it would probably make sense to do so.

 

I have used pto saw bench and an old petter driven liner saw bench for a few years now and they both need some respect but, on the whole, I think they are far safer than logging up with a chainsaw.

 

The best safety device I could recommend would be a tct blade, because as with a chain saw, a sharp saw is a safe saw and the moment you start to fight pushing stuff into it is when it can get dodgy.

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Thanks Marko. The tractor PTO does spin the right way... Got that checked out before I bought it!

 

I think what you're saying sums up my thoughts so that's a good start. I was thinking that a blunt blade would be dodgy the same as it is on a chainsaw and also questioned why leaning over a chainsaw is seen as a better option than a table saw as that's not exactly foolproof!

 

The saw I am looking at does have a basic guard over the blade which would stop you from falling on it if you were somehow knocked out and also the thin metal bit behind the blade to stop things from touching the back and flipping over. If I buy it I'll be giving it a good going over before use and I most likely will buy a new TCT blade for it.

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There is a perennial debate about which way around you do things but we find:

 

chainsaw to 1m lengths,

split,

stack and season

cut to length on a saw bench

 

is the best way for us to work and the safest. The days of clambering over a woodpile cutting rings with a chainsaw are thankfully over.

 

The other good tool you might pick up in time would be a pto driven hydraulic pump. This will power a splitter all day whilst the tractor hydraulics are unlikely to be of much use.

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I use an old saw bench and so far I have not had any accidents.... I use it only for 30mins at a time then have a break. I have found I get more complacent the longer I use it.

 

My saw is used to cut up thick branches, billets and nasty notty feckers that won't split. I also make boards to clad log stores I sell.

 

I never let anyone on the payroll use the 'widow maker' but my mates all use it to cut their firewood.

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My only concern with it all is that I've never used one. That makes me an amateur and amateurs unknowingly do silly things! It's the same with a chainsaw - I've worked in a number of gardens where the homeowner has bought a B&Q chainsaw and is happily grinding away at their trees, nose first into log piles etc. I find myself almost running to them to give them pointers before they get a hard kickback and chop off some vital part of their anatomy! :001_rolleyes:

 

I'm thinking that when I get this I need to check the blade is sharp and true and if not replace it and then I'm going to start on some good dry square timbers like 4x2 to get the hang of it. Looking at it I assume that feeding the wood square to the blade and pushing it straight through so it doesn't bind is pretty vital... Anything else I should know?

 

A PTO pump is already on my consideration list. Would that be a better way to go than one of those screw type PTO splitters? I've been looking at them a lot and they look quite smart. More importantly they are simple so perhaps better for occasional use (no pipes and seals to maintain)?

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Dont be a skinflint there are plenty of old brown sliding top pto sawbenches about with a fully covered blade and log holder. There so safe even your granny could use them without chopping off fingers. Only time they become dangerous is if you take short cuts and decide not to use the log holder. Just remember to put on a slight uphill gradient then the log table automatically slides back and covers the blade due to gravity.

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I was in your position last year and did loads of research. I now also have a good bit of practical experience so if you want to ask specific questions fire away.

 

The main thing your doing is managing the risk.... Always keep a trauma first aid kit near by.

 

Main points to watch for are twisted or bent bits of wood, you need it lying flat on the table before pushing into the blade other wise it wacks your finger/hand as the blade forces it down. You are bound to do this at some point, it hurts like hell!!

 

Also your body position needs to be back from the blade so at no point are you over the top of it. It's easy done believe it or not! This is so you don't slip fall forwards and cut your head in half....

 

I also do not wear gloves, I got this advise from somewhere online, theory is your finger/skin is easier to cut than leather etc so your hand won't get pulled into the blade causing a further unplanned hand or arm amputation.

 

Make sure that the floor around the saw is clear before starting work, trip hazards are to be avoided!!

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i have used the old pto saw benches for about the last 19 years i first used one when i was 13 & i`m now 32 & still have all my limbs & digits!!!

 

i sold my saw bench last winter as i decided that one of the newer covered saws with log rack would make life a whole lot easier!!

 

and it has!! life is also a lot safer!!!!

 

the old pto bench saw was a frightening thing when it was on full song & it was a bitch keeping it sharp!!!

 

as for the screw type splitters i use mine more than my hydraulic one i find it a faster way to split wood!

i also find it safer ever since a piece of knotty timber shot out from between the splitting blade & table & hit me square in the balls!!!!

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