The Land Rover Appreciation Group.

[18 stoner]

That's the bit I wasn't sure on. There are no wires on brake pads, so it not that. Will check the fluid level tomoz.

 

It does appear to have a leak on the front passenger wheel, but wasn't sure if it was brake fluid or the hub leaking.

 

Cheers fellas.

 

If it's got no wires on the pads, the oil around the hub won't be causing the light.

 

Whip the wheel off, you'll soon see if the oil is from the caliper though. If it isn't, it's probably either a hub seal or swivel seal. Either way, it'll be fine, it's a land rover. If it's brake fluid, sort it, otherwise put the wheel back on.

[mendiplogs]

Not real sure Jon. I've hammered landies for years and never come across that with mine.

 

Then again, I only do something to mine if something falls off, or it won't drive down the road. That's what they're designed for, right?

 

HI 18 i try and get it looked at before that time it gets a hard life so it needs servicing looking at 4/5000 miles oil out filter to thanks jon

[Rich2484]

If it's got no wires on the pads, the oil around the hub won't be causing the light.

 

Whip the wheel off, you'll soon see if the oil is from the caliper though. If it isn't, it's probably either a hub seal or swivel seal. Either way, it'll be fine, it's a land rover. If it's brake fluid, sort it, otherwise put the wheel back on.

 

Yeah. It's when it stops leaking I have to worry :lol::lol:

[Gups 1828]

No brake fluid on the handbrake.

 

Could be worth pulling rear prop off and cover and having a look at the linkage in there. May not be releasing fully so it's tickling the sensor.

 

 

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I know that rob! But it's the same warning light for handbrake on and low pad wear (if fitted) and fluid level..

[Bren.]

The idler on my TD5 Defender has started making a squeaking noise when cold. It goes away after a few miles driving. Any ideas on a fix, or do I need a new one?

Cheers.

[Treewolf]

HI 18 on my 110 tipper i get lots wheel bearings front come lose all the time say 8/12 weeks they need a tight up whats up with them it not just in the woods thanks jon

 

Hi Jon, what arrangement for locking the hub nuts do you have?

 

Early vehicles had two nuts with a tab washer between them. to set these up, the first nut is tiughtened to get the correct end float on the bearing, then the second nut locks the fist, and the tab washer stops either nut moving.

 

On later vehicles this arrangement was modified (to make factory assembly cheaper) and there is a spacer fitted between the two bearings' inner races within the hub. With this setup there is a single hub nut which is tightened very tight and then a collar on the nut is staked into a slot in the stub axle.

 

The change was midway through TD5 production, I believe.

 

Either is very reliable if correctly assembled, but many folk don't like the later arrangement becuase it cannot be adjusted for wear, and if you change the bearings you can have trouble finding the correct size spacer. It is quite possible to convert the late type to the early type by ditching the spacer and reverting to the two nuts plus tab washer, but if the spacer is removed and the single later nut used, or the wrong type of tab washer, the bearing can work loose.

 

It might be worth checking that you do have either type but correctly assembled. Set up properly, they shouldn't work loose regardless of how you use the vehicle.

[mendiplogs]

Hi Jon, what arrangement for locking the hub nuts do you have?

 

Early vehicles had two nuts with a tab washer between them. to set these up, the first nut is tiughtened to get the correct end float on the bearing, then the second nut locks the fist, and the tab washer stops either nut moving.

 

On later vehicles this arrangement was modified (to make factory assembly cheaper) and there is a spacer fitted between the two bearings' inner races within the hub. With this setup there is a single hub nut which is tightened very tight and then a collar on the nut is staked into a slot in the stub axle.

 

The change was midway through TD5 production, I believe.

 

Either is very reliable if correctly assembled, but many folk don't like the later arrangement becuase it cannot be adjusted for wear, and if you change the bearings you can have trouble finding the correct size spacer. It is quite possible to convert the late type to the early type by ditching the spacer and reverting to the two nuts plus tab washer, but if the spacer is removed and the single later nut used, or the wrong type of tab washer, the bearing can work loose.

 

It might be worth checking that you do have either type but correctly assembled. Set up properly, they shouldn't work loose regardless of how you use the vehicle.

 

HI TREE im sure other 110 on a late 300tdi theres only one locking nut and washer but were going to fit 2 mate thanks jon

[Rich2484]

Sorted mine.

 

Low oil level.

 

Many thanks to all those who posted.

 

Rich.

[ben lightfoot]

Hi guys, got an earth problem with my td5 defender. On acceleration the temp gauge drops and goes back up when I lift off. No loss of power just this random fault any experience or ideas? Cheers

[Percytopliss]

Had one of the chassis earth straps rusted through before, causing the temperature gauge to over read into the red. 300tdi tho, so depends on the age of your td5?