Tools,Tips and Techniques

[splinters]

there is no tool envy here Si (honest:321:) this is not a look at what iv got and you havnt thread. .

 

i forgot all about my grinder paint brushes and blowtorch. but i keep them at home not in my carving stuff.

 

what i a froe? i thought that was another name for your hair.

 

and what are carving screws? i just make sure i use a heavy lump o wood so it isnt goung to move or i just stick my foot on it.

[splinters]

Ok moving away reom tools how do you people mark up your wood.

 

as well as the two colours of spray marker that i explained in the 2nd post of this tread. i use a grid drawn over a picture of what i want to carve. and a grid drawn on the log.

 

the picture has a grid of 1cm squares which can then be scaled up to fit the log for example to 10cm squares.

 

the probem arives when you try to fit a grid from a flat page onto a round log.

 

you can either cut a flat edge onto your log and draw a grid onto that and copy the picture fron the small grid onto the big one. then cut round the outline right the way through the log. turn your log 90 degrees to the side and draw on what you will see from that angle then again cut out the outline. this should give you a good place to start working the 4 sides together and then working in some detail. this works ok for a smaller carving on a big log but wastes alot of wood.

 

there is another way it takes a good bit of head scratching but is well worth it. if you mark out your grid onto the top of your log and then where the lines go off the edge run the line straight down the length of your log. then measure down your vertical lines and run the horozontal lines around the log. this will give you a grid that is spaced correctly .

 

the hard part is then drawing onto this grid as the boxes are all different sizes but as long as you are only looking at the log from one side angle at a time whilst drawing the proportions will all be right. this works very well on loge where you cant afford to loose to much wood or need to keep a rounder shape to the carving.

 

oh and if you are cutting right the way through a log allways keep your saw bar level it is a real pain when one side is 2inches lower that the other because you paid so much attention the following the lines you drew and forgot to whatch what was happening on the other side of your carving.

 

tom

[wisewood]

there is no tool envy here Si (honest:321:) this is not a look at what iv got and you havnt thread. .

 

i forgot all about my grinder paint brushes and blowtorch. but i keep them at home not in my carving stuff.

 

what i a froe? i thought that was another name for your hair.

 

and what are carving screws?

 

Link to carving screwsCarver's vise, Carver's screw, Handles for Carving Tools

A froe Tom is a cleaving tool, used mostly by bodgers and hurdle makers in conjunction with a cleaving break. Here's a link mate,Westover Woodlands - Large timber cleaving

i just make sure i use a heavy lump o wood so it isnt goung to move or i just stick my foot on it.

:001_rolleyes:Guilty but not best practice!

Roger Day put me on to this one, when carving smallish pieces from thin logs he sets them next to a big log with a vertical notch in it to sit in to and ratchet straps it in place. I think he gets two or more carvings from one thin log just by moving it up after each piece is carved, if that makes any sense?

Si

[wisewood]

Forgot to add, I went to a vintage fair the other weekend and while the wife and girls were gushing over bags and hair things I picked up a lovely old set of three callipers for a fiver:thumbup1:

Great for achieving symmetry and marking out.

Si

[dervishcarving]

I use a froe for bodging, never knew what it was called until about 3 weeks ago

marking out is something i always remind myself i must do, usually about half way through teh first cuts next time im gonna try your 'draw on teh top and bring the lines down the face' method Tom

 

what do you mean you cant put your fut on the log that you are cutting? I hope to do my CS30 in a couple of weeks, you tellin' me i shouldn't 'hold the log with me foot as i cut it'? thanks for teh hint!

[EddieJ]

Brilliant thread.

 

Being an oak framer by trade and also in a previous career a tree surgeon, I'm kind of lucky that I already had a fair few tools to hand before venturing into carving.

 

My first mistake was thinking that I needed an Arbortech 4" industrial carving blade. For me that has been a big waste of money as it hardly gets used. I find the chainsaw does the same job with less chip being thrown all over you.

 

My second mistake was buying all three of the Holey Galahad curved grinding discs. Thankfully I brought them at a very discounted price, but when the time comes to replace them, I shall only buy the coarse blade, and forget about the medium and fine. On green oak I have found that they are just a waste of time, as they clog up in seconds.

 

Okay that's the negative out of the way, so here is a list that I shall no doubt add to of the positive items.

 

I have three chainsaws, an MS260 which in truth has been a pile of s##t from new. A superb electric MSE180, and finally an MS192 which I still haven't got around to fitting a carving bar to.

 

One Arbortech product that I really rate highly is my mini carver. I opted for the whole unit, rather than just the head. The sanding discs are expensive for it, but with care and respect they do last a long time.

 

I'm lucky enough to have some lovely Pfeil carving chisels, but these don't get used as often as perhaps they should.

 

My Triton Superjaws has proved to be a useful asset and I wouldn't be without it.

 

Because of my job, I Have a couple of very handy Makita sanders, a 4" belt and an orbital one. I also have a Bosch Delta, which is very good for small detail work, but the sanding pads are just way to expensive and don't last five seconds!

 

I also have the usual hand tools and files that others appear to own and use, but would be very interested to learn and hear about the use of wire brushes?

Edited June 18, 2012 by EddieJ

[splinters]

interesting about the arbtech i was gonna ger one but i ony want it for hollowing out the bowls of chairs and stuff like that.

[splinters]

interesting about the arbtech i was gonna ger one but i ony want it for hollowing out the bowls of chairs and stuff like that

 

your knowledge of timber framing is going to come in handy with a secret prodject im trying to get started. i may be in touch to pick your brain about joints. i have a couple of good books but advise is always better.

[EddieJ]

The Arbortech blade may be fine for your use, but it would be handy to borrow one first just to give it a go. I spotted a couple of days ago that they make a planing blade which looks like it could be an interesting bit of kit.

 

 

Not wishing to go off topic..

 

Ref the framing, I only have two books both of which I would highly recommend.

 

Timber Building In Britain by R.W.Brunskill and the second is Goss's Roofing Ready Reckoner

 

Feel free to send me a private message any time, and I can forward my contact details on to you.

[munksapprentice]

Hi, great little thread.

 

2x 441's on various bars. Biggest being 36" bar. Max is supposed to be 25" but they run the big bar with ease. I have had to use the 36" bar carving.

261 on a 13" and 16" bar. Its a really good little saw for bulk carving with the 13"

201 which has just replaced my 200. Good saw, I run it on a 12" carving bar usually but also have a 6" with it.

Grinder, Make sure its a good one. They work hard. 40 grit flap paddle disks are worth their weight in gold. I also have a range of sabuur tooth disks. Beware these are lethal, I use the brown disk to most effect. Beware, hold on tight and respect if you use the orange (the most coursest) one. You have never experienced bulk carving like you can with a sabuur tooth. But when they bite and flick back you have no time to react. The green one bit me once, hit a knot, flipped back and before i could stop it it was spinning on my stomach. It made a mess.

Black and decker powerfile. A must have, amazing piece of kit. Buy the belts off ebay, cheap as chips.

Random orbital sander, great for finishing off.

Arbortech mini grinder. Good tool, not sure its worth the money though.

Clark mini torch, good for fine detail. Also a larger torch for bulking.

Electric hot knife, really good for fine detail.

Sanding sealer, great for preventing splitting.

Danish oil, adds a nice finish.

 

If anyone were to buy anything from this list id advise black and decker powerfile. Makes life so much easier. Just make sure you buy the correct sized (length) off eabay. some make longer ones and there not as good.

 

Hope this helps someone