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Beginners guide to rigging.......


Adam Bourne
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Where Adam tonight?:confused1:

How about rigging stuff up the way, has that been covered yet? Not with cranes,tip tieing etc:biggrin:

 

 

Hey Steve, was busy last night but not doing a great deal today so will make a few post's and will include the previous post i made of adding hardware such as lowering devices and pulleys,butt tieing tip tieing, and balancing with and without the use of other hardware, and/or slings also i may do a piece on what cuts to use where if i get a chance.

 

 

got a couple of jobs to look at first so watch this space.....:biggrin:

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When are we getting the section on using the tail of your rope and the fattest groundie you can possibly find to hand hold everything? Or tip tying with a tag line and get the groundie to carry on pulling when its already snapped off defying gravity? And shouting at them when they haven't done it right and smashed something, useless groundies!

 

The above is a joke and a great thread Adam good photos and very informative a nice change to some of the usual threads filled with people making remarks trying to sound funny.

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The use of lowering devices and adding Pulleys......

 

 

we have already seen a few photos of the adjustable whoopie sling and capstan so will be brief on this one regarding the technical side of things.

 

 

 

Working on the basic's a lowering device is just an added piece of hardware that does the same as the wraps around the tree, but taking wraps around the tree has its downfalls, scaring of the tree can be caused if the tree is being retained, no tree is ever the same and getting it right every time would take a lot of practice, time is also a downfall as carrying the rope round the truck every time to lower a branch then returning the rope back again to send it back up to the climber is tedious and time consuming.

adding a friction device makes things more productive by taking wraps around the capstan or a bollard creating more control and less wear on your ropes also saving time.

 

A lowering bollard is basically a metal drum on a metal plate fixed to the tree via a ratchet strap, being fixed to the tree this way ensures there is no play/movement on the device, the larger diameter drums give a better bend ratio in the rope, which will minimise strength lost in the rigging line.

some bollards are have a much higher SWL to the capstan and portawraps, allowing for heavier loads.

 

Here i have pictures of a loaded capstan and a loaded bollard, the bigger the piece being removed the more wraps are added to the drums on the LD's for added friction, Getting it right takes practice but once you know how many wraps are needed then everything will run smoothly......

 

Here are a few videos on how to install a similar device as the capstan called a portawrap, also installation guides for the rc3002 bollard by Reg Coates, although the video is aimed at the rc3002 itself, the installing guide should apply to any bollard mounted with a ratchet strap fixing.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFMYllG6BHg]Proper Use of Whoopie Sling with A Portawrap - YouTube[/ame]

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPdjoPhJbCw&feature=related]Stein RC 3002 Tree Lowering Device - Mounting - YouTube[/ame]

 

Ps I borrowed the capstan pic from gustards web site as i forgot mine when i took the photos.....:biggrin:

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Adding pulleys......

 

Well we've all seen a few post's on damaging the tree by natural crotch, and how much friction it add's to the system, so now we've added a lowering device we need to eliminate the friction and help stop damage by adding a Pulley block, other factors such as reducing wear on the rope and reducing dynamic loading are also other benefits of pulleys.

 

 

The ISC and the DMM blocks are designed specifically for arborists, but the pulley block itself stems back to industrial work as does most rigging applications in tree work.

 

Attaching the block manually requires a deadeye sling connected to the pulley block, allowing it to be tied anywhere in the tree using hitches such as a timber hitch or cows hitch. (see photo 1 i tied in using a cow hitch then wrapped the loose of the deadeye around the branch to ensure it would not interfere with the rigging system) making sure that the rope is kept clear of any branches ensures a friction free and snag free lowering platform. (see photo 2)

 

Another way of adding a pulley into the tree is buy something called a floating anchor where another rope is use to hold the pulley and rigging line, the rope anchor is then attached to the base of the same tree or one close by.

by installing with a throw line This system saves climbing when its not always necessary to climb to the top of the tree or the rigging anchor is in another tree. (see photos 3,

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where's that demo tree adam?

 

i take it its the same tree in the other shots?:biggrin:

 

 

something i've not really used before but have thought of... would it be possible to have a floating anchor between TWO trees, suspended in mid air?

(nice work, keep it up:thumbup:)

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Now where Adding hardware the tree is your Oyster.......

 

 

Redirects using pulleys allows you to spread loads and reduce forces on the main anchor point. one of the main uses for a redirect anchor is to control where the branch being removed is going to land or to guide away from an object, other forces using redirect should be considered but keeping wood small will help reduce these risk's.

 

There are many ways to attach a redirect into the tree, one of the proffered methods myself is to use a small adjustable whoopie sling with a DMM pinto spliced directly to it, minimizing hardware.

here i am showing just how versatile redirects are a simple but very affective piece of hardware, i've used a sling and oval bina to attach the pulley but using aluminium binas is not really recommended for rigging applications.

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Adam, are you going to explain how the force exerted on the initial anchor (the one the floating pulley is over) is multiplied?

 

Edit your typing quickly!!! I mean pics 3 and 4 in the last post but one.

Edited by Rich Rule
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Also, remember that the redicrect is not just a redirect, its taking some of the load and so should not be too much smaller. Also it changes the direction of force on the main top pulley from a downward force to a sideways one.

 

Its is very often a good idea to put an identical redirect on the opposite side of the tree just to even this out a bit.

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